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Clutch problems.


My ranger is an 85 which had a r1 trans with a push in style hyd hose. With a keeper pin holding in slave cylinder. The 97 has a quick connect end. Also in a r1 the transmission has an aluminum ring that holds the throw out bearing in place while the slave is is sitting on top of it. The slave is 100 percent different frm what i see. Can i just buy a 97 hyd line and knock the pin out of master cylinder and change the 97 line onto my 85 master cylinder put pin back in and it get sufficent fluid flow?my master mounts to my firewall. Frm what yal are saying it should be the larger diameter master. Im not sure
 
Il buy the 88 master if i have to and use the 97 line with it?
. I dnt know what size or any details on the master cylinder that stock with 85 4x4 2.8 v6
 
Or can i just get a 97 f150 master cylinder and use its whole setup?they have wall mount master with relocation fillers. The only thing im not sure about is the rod legnth. I dont know if the rod is to long or to short or if its same bolt hole size. It may be possible to change rods frm clutch to master frm ranger to the newer master. Im not sure. Any advice???
 
Not sure if you fixed your problem yet. As far as master/slave combo, I'm running an 89 v6 master cylinder with an 83 diesel ranger slave cylinder. My truck is a 97 and like teddyzee's had to cut the piece off that the factory master mounted to and mount the 89 master to the firewall. When I had the stock 97 master in, I was using a CJ pony performance slave. Took me a week to get a pedal out of the truck. I bled it for a week straight and still the pedal would go right to the floor. I wasn't bleeding it right. Pull the master out and leave the line on it. Cap off the end of the line where it would attach to the slave and make sure it's air tight. Tip the master so that the rod end that attaches to the clutch pedal is facing down. Fill the reservoir, grab the rod for the master with it still facing down and start pushing the rod into the plunger. Short strokes. You will start seeing bubbles in the reservoir. keep doing short strokes until it is hard as crap for you to push on that rod anymore. You will feel the difference. Once it is hard to push, the master is bled. Put the cap and rubber piece back on the reservoir and tighten. This will help so that when you uncap the line to reattach it to the slave, it won't get air back in it. Remount your master and connect the rod to the pedal. un cap the line and connect it back to the slave. Open the bleeder on the slave. Now uncap the reservoir again and fluid should start flowing through and out the bleeder in the slave. let the fluid flow out of the reservoir until it gets a little past half. Do that about 3-4 times. The final time, once it's at half full, close the bleeder, recap and put the rubber piece back in the reservoir, then you are done. I did this and after a week of fighting with it, it was bled and ready to go. Hope this helps u.
 
ty tompson you could have saved yourself the trouble and just used the slave cylinder that is the same year as your truck. The slave cylinders come in 2 sizes the same as the clutch master cylinders, all you have to do is match the slave to the same year as the master you are using. The transmissions (both R1 & R2) will accept either size slaves as long as you have the right length bolts, but you can only bolt up the clutch master that matches the year truck. So if you have an 88 ranger use the 88 master with an 88 slave and you're good to go as long as you bleed it properly, if you have a 97 ranger use a 97 slave and all should be good. I have a 95 ranger with an 88 trans and the problem was its a small bore master with a large bore slave so I took the slave off of my 95 R1 trans and bolted it up to my 88 R2 trans and it works like a dream.
 
Hey hsmcorey thanks for the tip. Yea I think I did a lot of this swap the hard way lol. I have an 83 diesel ranger slave right now and I can't seem to get the damn thing bled properly. I have some movement at the slave but not enough to engage the clutch. I bled the master thoroughly so I know its the slave I'm having problems with. Any idea how to properly bench bleed a slave cylinder? The last slave cylinder I had I was able to just gravity bleed it while it was still connected to the truck once I bled the master. This slave doesn't seem to want to do that.
 
Ty thompson. Frm what im reading. U just need a 89 slave and line to match it. Bleed it and go. Maybe ur 83 slave isnt the same size as say the 89. Not sure. I did figure out what i gota do with mine. 89 master. Slave. Line. And fill locator. The kit is nearly 250.00. But my master is tiny and the slave is completely diff in original trans. So i got start frm scratch. Thanks guys. Il let u know how mine goes when i getto install it.
 
Hsmcorey
So ur saying since i have an 85 ranger. If i buy the 89 master clutch and slave and line. It should work fine on engagement for my clutch with my r2????????
 
Are the lines the same legnth for regular or extended cabs?ive got 3 body lift. Will regular cab line reach the slave?
 
Any inputs on the 94 4.0 slave working with a 90 r2 5 speed? They had the same part number but no matter how much i bled my slave, i can not get any clutch what so ever.
 
It was also a brand new slave. I swapped out my old one just to be safe and try avoiding this problem. Thanks
 
Best of my knowledge is the 94 is a 5/8 bore master pushing the slave so its either 16mm or 5/8 bore slave. U need slave for 3/4 atleast. Ur not getting enough volume of fluid to operate clutch. Others may can verify this. And confirm it. U need to check what size master cylinder bore is on the 94. Thatl tell u what size bore ur slave is rated for. I ran a 3/4 bore master and slave for 89 ford ranger with 2.8 v6 and it works my r2 great. With an 11 in clutch. Hope this helps
 
Thats what i was hoping not to hear but thats what i figured the problem was. Thanks for your quik reply and i will let you know how it goes when i get the chance.
 
Finaly got a hard clutch!! Luckly it was just ALOT of air trapped in the master cylinder. Easy fix by disconnecting the clutch pedal in the cab and add more fluid until it started to leak at the plunger. Then just bled it normaly and all done. Goes into gear no problem. This was my last major aggrivation to have this thing done
 

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