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Clutch pedal is hard and wont move


Jdallago

Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2016
Messages
7
Vehicle Year
1997
Transmission
Manual
I went out to my truck this morning and went to push in the clutch pedal to start it and it would not go in. The clutch stuck at the top and will not go down. I Did à little bit of research and found it might be the master cylinder or something to do with the line and check valve in it,maybe the slave cylinder but not likley. It is also cold out(about 15*F ) so something may have also froze. Any input appreciated thanks~Jacob
 
Down by the transmission is a "Quick Disconnect" fitting, it is on the line from the Master to the Slave.
It has come undone, and needs to be reconnected.

The fitting allows you to unhook the line from the transmission so you can remove the transmission, to replace clutch or ???
On the Master side of the line is a Ball valve, when you disconnect the fitting the ball closes the end of the line so fluid can't leak out.
If the fitting comes apart or gets loose then ball closes and pedal can't be pushed down because fluid has no where to go, line is plugged up.

If fitting has gone bad then yes, master would need to be replaced as that part of the line/hose is part of the master.

Slave or it's line can't cause stuck pedal you describe, for sure
 
The line would be the first thing I would check too. Clean it off with brake cleaner, clean the female side also then put it in and make sure it's locked in.

RonD knows his vehicles!


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Ok I will definitely try that!Thanks! But one of Mt friends dad Is a mechanic (chevy mechanic) but still has worked one many vehicles, but he said that there could be water is the line and it froze up because over night it just stopped working properly. Is this a common or possible diagnosis? Thanks again
 
Mine has popped off a couple of times on cold mornings. You'll probably find that you have to crack the bleeder on the slave to get the line back in since it will be pressurized. I make sure that I press the clutch pedal very slowly when I first jump in on cold mornings now, and it seems to have helped so far.
 
Theoretically I can see how that might happen but it's a sealed system and there should be no way for water to get in. If the hydraulic line is still connected then once the temp gets above freezing try it again. If that's the case then gravity bleed the fluid while someone else adds fluid so you don't get air in the line. About 3 reservoirs worth of fluid should do the job.


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Turned out the line just came out like you guys suspected! Thankyou! But I'm having trouble getting it back in is there anything to it? If anyone knowa trick would be appreciated

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Male sure the plastic sleeve is pulled out as far as it will go before you push it in. If it's not staying in there is either dirt in there or the retainer clip is broken or worn out. I don't know of anywhere to get a new one. Might be able to get a used one from the junk yard.


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If you can spring for it, and have time and/or know-how, pull the slave cylinder and change out the fitting. Since this requires the purchase of a new slave (I don't think the hydraulic clutch fitting is sold indivudually), I would take a pin punch and drive out the roll pin and change them out.

I did this in 2011 when I had issues with the older R-clip hydro fitting for a '92 slave cylinder.
 
I ended up just doing my clutch slave and master. And the new one we t together well! If you do t his job pre bled masters are awesome! Made the job 10 times easier

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Thanks for the update :)
 

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