Clutch master pushrod

[kevinbmx77]

I snapped the rod between the clutch pedal and the master, i took it apart to remove the rod so i could replace it. After remving the rod i have clutch fluid leaking into the cab. Is this normal since there is no pressure on the plunger? Or do i need a new master?

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[Mark_88]

Well, talk about having a heavy foot...lol.

I would hazard a guess that you are going to need to pull the master to fix it because the seal inside might need a bit of finess...but I would, consider the low cost, advise to simply replace the clutch master.

That fluid, as you may already know, is actually brake fluid...it is toxic so be careful handling it and wash it off immediately...wear eye protection when working on the master especially where it concerns testing the plunger...if there is not a proper seal that stuff can be forced out in a stream...and brake fluid in the eyes is one of the most dangerous of the hazards involved.

So...replace...if you can...easy enough to do...pop the quick release off the transmission and yank the whole thing out so you can punch out that roll pin that holds the line to the slave and put it back together...

I'm pretty sure there is a Youtube video on this if you are not familiar...

 

[kevinbmx77]

Well, talk about having a heavy foot...lol.

I would hazard a guess that you are going to need to pull the master to fix it because the seal inside might need a bit of finess...but I would, consider the low cost, advise to simply replace the clutch master.

That fluid, as you may already know, is actually brake fluid...it is toxic so be careful handling it and wash it off immediately...wear eye protection when working on the master especially where it concerns testing the plunger...if there is not a proper seal that stuff can be forced out in a stream...and brake fluid in the eyes is one of the most dangerous of the hazards involved.

So...replace...if you can...easy enough to do...pop the quick release off the transmission and yank the whole thing out so you can punch out that roll pin that holds the line to the slave and put it back together...

I'm pretty sure there is a Youtube video on this if you are not familiar...

I was suprised it broke, its medal all the way through till it gets to the pedal and thats where i snapped. I have the dorman slave that hold the line on with the clip and i think its a bad design because it blows the line out.
I was getting on the highway and the line blew out and i didnt know, since it designed to hold the fluid once its out the pedal was as stiff as it could be and thats how i snapped the rod.
I think i will replace the whole master just to be safe.

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[jarmo]

exact same thing happened to me. went to pull into second, and snapped the rod because it popped out at the trans. Ordered whole new assembly from rock auto. took bout an hour to do. (on a lift) well worth just changing the whole thing. Since these can be a bear to bleed, i would recomend the pre bled one save a lot of hair pulling.

 

[RonD]

yes, replace Master, reservoir and line to Slave, they come as a kit and can be bled before installing.

Push rod is attached to the Master and is not 'technically' removable

 

[Andy D]

On the Rat, I destroyed the clutch master in a very hard R+R. The welds on the captive nuts let go and the fine thread machine screws were rusted solid. The original hose crumbled by the slave. I ripped the push rod out of the MC without removing the snap ring. The whole inside of the MC came out! Once it was out of the way, I used a 2 foot long flexi bit to relieve the frozen screws 90$ later at the 'Zone for replacements. I had the 1/4 -20 hardware to bolt the new MC to the fire wall. Just before bolting, the clutch master to the fire wall, tilt it s nose down. Then, hold quick connect at the slave open until fluid comes out. When the fluid is clear, plug it into the slave. Next open the slave's bleeder until fluids runs clear. Return to installing the MC.

 

[kevinbmx77]

Thanks for all the help guys, got it fixed yesterday, pulled the whole system and bench bled it.
Everything was going great till today and now i have a new problem, the slave line keeps blowing off because of dormans poor design of it.
Has anybody ever made a device to tighten the two together?
Maybe two slip on washers and bolts?

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[RonD]

You often need to open the slave bleeder while pushing on and locking the connector or it won't seat all the way down.

 

[AllanD]

Usually when the clutch line blows off the slave it is because someone is trying to use mis-matched couplers...

The 1988-1992 coupler is similar to, but not compatible with the 1993-later coupler

The 1988-92 coupler is typically anodized black (which often fades to purple)
the 1993-on coupler is anodized Yellow or Yellow-orange (some would call this gold)

I've personally seen some internal slaves with the coupler anodized RED, but all these have been in 1991-1992 Thunderbird Super-coupes... and I've never tested the compatibility of these red couplers with any other.

I DO KNOW that the black male coupler of the 1988-93 line will go into the Yellow female coupler of the1993-up clutch line, but it WILL NOT stay there under pressure.

The 1993-on Yellow male coupler won't go into the black female. the Yellow male coupler is slightly larger in diameter(about 0.020")




Now the pushrod it designed to be inserted into the Master cylinder piston, but is not designed to be removable...
So Far As I Know there is no commercially made tool to release the "barbs" that hold the pushrod in the piston.

The same applies to the plastic "clip" that holds the pushrod to the "pin" on the clutch pedal

 

[will1861]

I just tried to rebuild one recently I have a 1991 and I had a spare 1992 laying around. To get the rod off I wrapped a piece of soup can metal with a notch cut out at the bottom and used a pair of vise grips to slide it between the rod and the barbs. Too much trouble in the end Just buy a new one and be done with it. Good luck

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[Mark_88]

Yes, I had a similar issue and as long as the parts are compatible like AllanD stated, the step RonD mentions may be necessary. I had one that would not seat properly...or stay for the first go round...but the fingers that the plastic ring holds in place were bent and not opening properly to allow the male connector to sit in the slave...and when the connector was in the ring would not pull the fingers over the male connector to allow it to lock in place.

On mine it was a matter of looking in to make sure the fingers were not bent out of shape and that the ring was pulled all the way forward (this should be automatically done unless there is too much pressure or the fingers are twisted)...

Takes a bit more time but once you get it you should not need to remove it for a long time.

I had thought of jury rigging a wire retainer to keep the connectors together...but the pressure is beyond anything other than the designed fit and properly working components...which may require slave replacement if there is extensive damage to the couplings.