Clutch master cylinder

[Joey Stacks]

Ok this is a thread in response to my "cold weather warm up questions" thread where people stopped checking it. I have a 92 ford ranger 2.3 4cyl Manual trans. The Clutch pedal has a habit of having too much travel in the mornings when its cold and there is a leak somewhere and im thinking about replacing the master cylinder in hopes that it fixes the problem. Every couple of days i have been adding fluid to the reservoir to keep the clutch managable. Even if the fluid is pretty high it seems like it wont work until i top off the fluid. So im going to put a new master cylinder in.
The main questions are... Do you think this will fix my clutch problem
Should I change any of the other parts too?
What type of tool will I need to do this job. in the manual it says I need a special tool for the quick disconnect fittings but dosent say anything more than that so if you know the tool its talking about that would be helpful
Also if anybody got pictures or suggestions to help me out they would be appreciated Im pretty new to working on vehicles and I want to be able to do things myself to save money and learn experience

 

[modelageek]

if the leak is in the clutch master cylinder, then replqaing it should solve your issue. On the other hand if the leak is in the slave cylinder then you need to pull the tranny and replace the slave. you need to locate the leak. In this case if you find a leak in the master I would purchase a prebleed one.
*You should be able to get the clutch coupling tool at an auto parts store. they are less than $10. First thing I would do though is find where the leak is coming from. then come back here and post what you find.

 

[Joey Stacks]

Alright I warmed the truck up and gave the clutch a couple of good stomps and gave a good look around. Looks like there is fluid coming out around where the pushrod enters the master cylinder. Seems to me like that would be the problem. Agree disagree?

 

[modelageek]

I agree it looks like you need a new master cylinder. I think you lucked out. it is an easier fix then the slave. You might want to get a prebleed master cylinder go to rock auto and see what they have. here is a video explaining how to bleed the clutch master cylinder.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgNTDGwcjZc

 

[Joey Stacks]

Thanks modelageek REPS

 

[Joey Stacks]

ALRIGHT so I got the everything to the point where It should be easily removed but I hit a snag. The master cylinder will not pull through the firewall due to the clutch starter interlock not fitting through the hole. I could be wrong but the interlock has the wiring harness that I had to remove right? Anyway do I need to pull the push rod to remove it or am I missing something? Im going back to the garage to try again let me know

 

[modelageek]

Read Your manual thoroughly a few times. The interlock switch has to come of the rod..

 

[Joey Stacks]

the manual didnt say how the interlock came off. I figured it out you have to slide a plastic piece out of it and it comes off. after I did that I could see that there was room to pull the whole thing through the firewall it was just really tight.
The quick disconnect fitting on the slave did not quickly disconnect and my freeking special tool I had for it snapped. I ended up doing it with a flathead screwdriver after blasting it over and over with WD I need to go get some PB blaster I hear its way better. The whole thing took way longer than it should have but because it was my first time doing it. And bleeding your own master cylinder takes longer than I thought. Ended up with the pedal feeling spongy so this morning im going to bleed it from the slave until I get it right.

 

[modelageek]

FYI. the best rust penetrator? is a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF( be careful acetone is very flammable). the 2nd best rust penatrator is Liquid wrench. Usually everything on an older car takes longer than you hope. You stuck with it and got it done.. 2 thumbs up!

 

[Joey Stacks]

Thanks modelageek.
I just gravity bled the slave and took it for a spin. Shifting seems a bit rough so I think there might be some air left in the slave. The clutch movement seems fine but like there is a little less pedal travel than I expected. Should I bleed the slave with someone in there depressing the pedal while i bleed it? or is gravity bleeding enough

 

[modelageek]

read the manual again. i believe it is similar to brakes. you need someone to work the pedal. while you are under there you should drain the tranny and replace the fluid. you use mercon atf. it takes about 3 quarts from memory. there are a filler plug and drain plug on the side of the tranny

 

[Joey Stacks]

ok cool I dont have the trans fluid on hand and its stick so I will research gear oils and find out what I need for it

 

[modelageek]

ok cool I dont have the trans fluid on hand and its stick so I will research gear oils and find out what I need for it

no need to research. I am positive you use mercon atf. do not use gear oil.

 

[Joey Stacks]

yeah your right says 5.9pints of mercon atf

 

[modelageek]

you can get a 5 gal jug at az for about $12. you will need some type of pump. Make sure you remove the the top (filler ) plug first. You dont want to remove the drain plug and the find out you have a hard time getting the filler plug out.