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schmoot
New Member
I've recently bought a 1994 4x4 with the 4L v6. Manual transmission and electronic transfer case.
After only a week of driving it the clutch master cylinder rod broke on me. I figure no biggie il just replace it. So I replaced the whole master cylinder. Had some troubles bleeding the system but eventually got a firm pedal by using a vacuum bleeder and "burping" the master cylinder (removing the c clib and taking out the piston). It would shift great except for when it got hot (30min of idle so more like warm) the clutch would not fully disengage. Kinda like there is air in the system but I had a firm pedal throughout it's FULL travel even when warm.
I have the whole thing apart and it looks like a brand new (non self adjusting) clutch plate. A new looking slave with a good bearing. And no apparent oil leaks.
To note I did use an older bottle of brake fluid because I didn't realize it had a shelf life at the time l. So I'm 90% sure it's just air / water in the system.
The question is. Should I change the clutch to be a self adjusting one to get the engagement point more in the middle or does this hydraulic system really compensate and I actually did still have air in the system. I seems to be 50/50 people saying the ranger originaly came with a self adjustin or not. And 50/59 people saying the engagement point of all the way to the floor vs all the to the top.
The weird part is for the week or so that I had before the master cylinder rod broke the engagement point was also all the way to the floor except it would shift fine while cold and hot.
Or maybe the previous owner put in a shity clutch plate (it's a clutch max pro) so a better non self adjusting one would work? Or could I make a sort of washer behind the slave so it sits closer to the pressure plate to get more travel out of it?
After only a week of driving it the clutch master cylinder rod broke on me. I figure no biggie il just replace it. So I replaced the whole master cylinder. Had some troubles bleeding the system but eventually got a firm pedal by using a vacuum bleeder and "burping" the master cylinder (removing the c clib and taking out the piston). It would shift great except for when it got hot (30min of idle so more like warm) the clutch would not fully disengage. Kinda like there is air in the system but I had a firm pedal throughout it's FULL travel even when warm.
I have the whole thing apart and it looks like a brand new (non self adjusting) clutch plate. A new looking slave with a good bearing. And no apparent oil leaks.
To note I did use an older bottle of brake fluid because I didn't realize it had a shelf life at the time l. So I'm 90% sure it's just air / water in the system.
The question is. Should I change the clutch to be a self adjusting one to get the engagement point more in the middle or does this hydraulic system really compensate and I actually did still have air in the system. I seems to be 50/50 people saying the ranger originaly came with a self adjustin or not. And 50/59 people saying the engagement point of all the way to the floor vs all the to the top.
The weird part is for the week or so that I had before the master cylinder rod broke the engagement point was also all the way to the floor except it would shift fine while cold and hot.
Or maybe the previous owner put in a shity clutch plate (it's a clutch max pro) so a better non self adjusting one would work? Or could I make a sort of washer behind the slave so it sits closer to the pressure plate to get more travel out of it?
