Clutch change tips on 2000 4x2...

[LilBlueTruck]

Hi everyone - I am going to attempt a clutch change on my 2000 Ranger 4x2 4-cylinder this week and I am looking for a few tips. More specifically:

1. With the quick-disconnect hydro clutch line, am I correct in saying that the line will NOT need to be bled after reassembly?

2. Is there anything that needs to be readjusted in the clutch assembly before putting everything back together, or is a straightforward take-one-off and replace-with-new procedure? I have some instructions from AllData that say something about an "adjusting-ring" on the clutch pressure plate.

3. Does the quick-disconnect tool slip between the plastic-grommet and metal piece that sticks out of the tranny casing?

I will be putting on an all-new CenterForce clutch (disc and PP) as well as a new T/O bearing. I have never done this before on a Ranger, but I did a clutch change on my FWD car when I pulled the engine out for an engine-swap, so I do have a reasonable level of mechanical experience. I have a few shop manuals (Haynes and AllData), but as most of you know, these things are only so good. I am just looking for any tricks that might be specific to the Ranger that can make this go a bit more smoothly. Thanks in advance for any input that you may provide.

 

[LilBlueTruck]

Another thought that I had after reading some of the tranny posts is the idea that a lot of you guys mention replacing the slave-cylinder. Is this a problem area? I am doing the clutch not out of necessity but for preventative maintenance. The truck will be driven to Alaska (from New York) this summer and I want it in tip-top shape! Should I consider replacing the slave-cylinder as well? What about the pilot-bearing? Do these tend to go after a while? The truck's tranny and clutch have not caused any problems thus far and it has 115,000+ on the clock. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.