Clutch bleeding

[Mellvis]

I have a 1986 4X4 Ranger with a clutch issue. When I first got it, the clutch was at the floor before it would release. Over time it got to the point that it would not disengage. After checking everything I discovered that the bolts came out from the bell housing to the engine. I replaced the bolts and the clutch worked great. I also noticed that fluid was seeping out of the clutch master where the ram goes into it.

NOW, my clutch does not work again. The pedal feels normal but it does not release at all. It's just like when the bolts came out of the transition, but they are right where they should be. My thought is to bleed the system before I go any farther. I'm sure there is air in the master as much as it's leaking.

I can not figure out how to get to the bleeder screw. It's at the top of the transmission and I can't even see or feel it. Am I not looking in the right spot? I have a master and slave laying on the ground to look at for reference, but I can't find it on the trans.

My next question: I saw a video of a guy who pulled the piston out of the master from under the dash to release the air. Will this actually do the trick, assuming the air is in the master and not the slave? Looks fairly easy but I wanted to get some feedback to make sure it's not just a spoof.

Thanks for all of the help!

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

It's not a spoof. However if it's leaking already I would try filling the master and just pumping the pedal a bunch of times. Then if that doesn't work try tipping the rod out slightly.
Good luck,
Richard

 

[FritzTKatt]

Look for a little black cap that goes on it. IIRC it's a 5/16" hex, almost the exact same part as a brake bleeder screw. It's a little awkward and what not because it's at the end of a copper tube, not mounted solid. Be careful, I can't imagine torquing on it either way is good. Also it's difficult to reach with a box end.

 

[Mellvis]

So you can reach the bleeder from under the truck? Is the bleeder near the top of the trans? Is it best to pump it up and then bleed it or to open the bleeder. push down the pedal, then close the bleeder with the pedal down? I had an old Fiero that was tricky like that.

The reservoir is full and I've pumped it more times than I ever want to remember! I'll try it again and see what happens.

Thanks guys.

 

[FritzTKatt]

Mine bled very easily, I had a completely dry system to start too. Connected it all together, put fluid in the reservoir, cracked the bleeder and had my assistant push the pedal. Bled it just like a brake system. Topped off the reservoir a few times in the process.

IIRC the bleeder is a few inches up and to the front of the truck from where the slave line goes in.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

There is a pic of the bleeder at the bottom of the page, however there has been three manual trans and I don't believe all bleeders are in the exact same spot. But should be close.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/bleedclutch.htm

Another possibility, read the last post,

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9188

 

[Mellvis]

Thanks for the links, now I know what I'm looking for!

Well Here's where I'm at now! I thought that pulling the ram out of the master would be my best option, as that is where the leak is. Now I can't get the cotton pickin thing back in.

I do have a spare master and slave assembly. I think if I can't get it all together I may replace it all. I think I should pull the trans anyway becasue I had heard a loud "POP" and the clutch slipped for a brief second, then started pulling again. This makes me think I have a slave problem as well...... maybe. We'll know this weekend. I hope.

Thanks again for all of the help and encouragement.

 

[Mellvis]

Just to update my situation on the Ranger clutch. I have the new master cylinder and slave cylinder on the trans, trans is in the truck, BUT not all the way tight against the engine block. I have all of the bolts in the bell housing to the block, but the bell housing is about a half of an inch away from the block. The trans slid into the clutch plate pretty easily and got this far in, but when I try to get it against the block I feel resistance. As I try to tighten one bolt, the trans moves around as if it pivoting on the input shaft. If it is this close to the engine block, I would believe that the input shaft simply must be in the clutch disk, right? I read on here that the pilot bearing is about a half of an inch in length. Surely the input shaft can't be against the side of the pilot bearing and not going into it???? Now, I have not cranked on the bell housing bolts really hard for fear of breaking/damaging something. I DID open the bleeder on the slave cylinder just to make sure that the hydraulic pressure against the pressure plate wasn't stopping me but that didn't alleviate the problem.

SO, who thinks I should just crank on the bolts and hope it works? IS this a normal situation with hydraulic clutches? This is my first experience with one and I'm positive it will be my last!!!

 

[hank857]

Sounds as if the pilot bushing/bearing and shaft is not seated? When installing the trans did you rotate the main shaft a little to ensure all the splines line up? Did you use the tool to hold all the pieces in line?

NO i would not say just to crank all the bolts down, its just not seated in there right.

There is really no difference in installing the clutch with a manual release, just with a hydraulic unit you also have a slave to work with but I beleive yours is external is it not?

 

[Mellvis]

I have not replaced the clutch/pressure plate/pilot bearing. Yes I did turn the output shaft while installing the transmission to make sure that it lined up with the clutch disk splines.. I am certain that it is in the clutch disk, just not certain about the pilot bearing. If everything was lined up before disassembly, is it not safe to assume that it is still aligned? I have been told that I should have someone push the clutch pedal to allow the disk to float around and allow the input shaft to seat into the pilot bushing. Any thoughts?