clutch ADVICE needed asap

[crawlin91]

91 ext cab 2.9 manual 122,000 miles
Just took a 1300 mile road trip. Started to get really difficult to shift into first and its been grinding gears when I shift it in reverse for a while now. Now it is impossible to get it into any gear and is stuck in neutral. I checked the fluid in the master cylinder but it was ok. Long story short I need some clutch work and can't do it myself(lack of tools/experience)

Heres my questions
1) Do you think parts and labor would run the same price if I have them put in a larger 4.0 clutch? Other than the fact that I would have to locate a 4.0starter.

2)Is a stock clutch fine for some mild trail abuse and 33's or will it wear out.

Also does anyone at all know of a reputable shop or mechanic in the Denver area?????? Any advice is much apprectiated

 

[MAKG]

Labor will be the same; parts won't be. Shouldn't be TOO different, aside from the starter.

But it may scare the shop.

Your problem sounds hydraulic. Make sure it's not the master before going after the clutch.

If you didn't have issues with uncommanded slipping on your old stock clutch, you won't with a new one, either.

 

[snake]

I agree... sounds hydraulic

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

sounds like slave cylinder or clutch master cylinder. will a 4.0l clutch fit a 2.9l? what would be the advantage in using a 4.0l clutch versus just getting a heavier duty clutch for the 2.9l?

 

[crawlin91]

Yeah. Well, I guess it can be done, I saw it in the tech library.
A heavy duty clutch? I guess I didnt know that could be done. Do you know of a manufacturer of one specifically? (What makes it stronger/better?? and what would I ask/be looking for?

 

[crawlin91]

Oh and one more thing there really wasnt any warning for this happening. Wouldnt there be some warning or slipping of the clutch before it goes? I have had no problems with it before this. Could it be something simple? (cable or something?)

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

yeah, borg warner makes one called brute-force it has heavier springs in the clutch pack and the friction material is stronger/ harder. i just replaced mine after 3 years and put in a sachs oe replacement clutch. i measured it and it was the same thickness as my worn out borg warner. and after i put it in the pedal pushed softer and easier and i also noticed it slips alot worse when trying to push other cars or tow heavy stuff. it sounds like a bad slave cylinder or possibly master cylinder. usually you will experience difficulty going into reverse and first prior to it totally failing. these hydraulic clutches can be great when they work properly, but when they fail they are a bitch to straightnen out again. hope this helps.

 

[Branger2B]

do you have a "Loose" or "Soft" clutch pedal? if you have fluid in the master cylinder and its NOT leaking on the ground under your truck, id eliminate the slave and clutch master. the clutch itself did you ever feel it slip before this happened? the FIRST thing i would do is take odd the tranny drain plug on the very bottom of the transmission in the middle of the pan. (fm146 5spd) and see if there is any metal filings in the oil? im thinking it may be your tranny going. they do funny things when they go and sometimes they just "go" Instantly. mine went when i was simply changing gear from 3rd to 4th. same thing as you said.. i couldnt get it into 4th or any other gear. i thought it wasa the clutch but it ended up being the tranny. im not trying to make you think its all bad news but id hate to go spend money on parts that wont even fix the problem.

EDIT: oh yah and save youself sommore $$$ by buying urself a nice ratchet and socket set.. Maybe even an air compressor and impact. and do it youself. its easy buy a haynes manual and if you get stuck ask questions here. or look in tech. i Was 15 when i did my first ranger clutch. and it was the 4.0L comversion to boot. the only trouble i had was figuring out the starter wiring. but you dont even need to do that if you just replace the 2.9l one. (if you dont have to replace the clutch a tranny swap is even easier!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) and if you do it youself spend the mopmney you'd normally pay a shop to fix your truck on tools.. id way rather have $500 worht of brand new tool then paying some asshole shop $100 bux /hr to do something you could easilly do urself. (auto i would take to shop) OR replace with 5spd. just my 0.02$

 

[MAKG]

I don't see any reason to suspect a problem with the clutch OR slave cylinder (yet).

I think it's the master, and any talk about replacing the clutch with anything, yanking the transmission, etc., is premature.

A complete clutch job is a decent first major DIY *IF* you have another vehicle to drive. 'Cause a first transmission R/R can easily take a weekend or two. It's a lot less when you know what to expect.

 

[crawlin91]

Well, I have some nice hand tools but no impact. I also figured I would need a tranny jack and all kinds of specialty tools and knowledge. If not maybe it is worth doing myself. It is my daily driver but I do live within 3 miles of work. Think I may take it in to have it diagnosed but like you said they bend you over with labor charges. And that is alot of cash I would rather drop on getting my skyjacker lift and regearing.

 

[MAKG]

"All kinds of specialty tools?" Not really. A platform jack is quite helpful, but it can be done with a floor jack or even those $3 ratchet straps from Harbor Freight (that actually appears to be the easiest way, though I do it with a platform jack when necessary). A transmission jack is overkill, but if you really want it, they can be rented. If you're a big guy, you can just bench press the transmission (they are only a little over 80 lbs, though it's awkward on the driveway).

Aside from that, the only specialty tool you need is the quick-release tool for the clutch, and even that can be worked around. Though it isn't like it's expensive.

The main issue is time. That's why it's expensive.

Impacts are essential for frozen exhaust bolts (on V6 applications), but you don't live in the salt belt. They can be rented as well if needed; just avoid the useless electric ones.

 

[Redneckryder]

or if its like mine, half the exhaust fell of already and you can just push whats left out of the way....stupid salty roads... in my opinion, i agree with everyone else. it sounds like the slave isnt disengaging the clutch enough. trust me, when the clutch goes, you can put it in any gear you want at anytime you want without thinking about touching the clutch. been there three times now.... and no the stock clutch is not gonna hold up well to 33 on the trails. my 31's eat clutches on the road, not alot of trails. yours will hold up for a while, but not long unless you regear it to like 4.56's

 

[LearjetMinako]

yeah, borg warner makes one called brute-force it has heavier springs in the clutch pack and the friction material is stronger/ harder. i just replaced mine after 3 years and put in a sachs oe replacement clutch. i measured it and it was the same thickness as my worn out borg warner. and after i put it in the pedal pushed softer and easier and i also noticed it slips alot worse when trying to push other cars or tow heavy stuff. it sounds like a bad slave cylinder or possibly master cylinder. usually you will experience difficulty going into reverse and first prior to it totally failing. these hydraulic clutches can be great when they work properly, but when they fail they are a bitch to straightnen out again. hope this helps.

Ah fuuee. I'm getting ready to do a clutch job on my Ranger shortly. Talk about grinding in Reverse or not going into 1st, could be caused by the Master Cylinder as well. My Ranger been doing that for the last 2yrs but only very few sometimes. I'm also replacing the Slave Cylinder.

 

[PaleBlue90]

do you have a "Loose" or "Soft" clutch pedal? if you have fluid in the master cylinder and its NOT leaking on the ground under your truck, id eliminate the slave and clutch master. the clutch itself did you ever feel it slip before this happened? the FIRST thing i would do is take odd the tranny drain plug on the very bottom of the transmission in the middle of the pan. (fm146 5spd) and see if there is any metal filings in the oil? im thinking it may be your tranny going. they do funny things when they go and sometimes they just "go" Instantly. mine went when i was simply changing gear from 3rd to 4th. same thing as you said.. i couldnt get it into 4th or any other gear. i thought it wasa the clutch but it ended up being the tranny. im not trying to make you think its all bad news but id hate to go spend money on parts that wont even fix the problem.

EDIT: oh yah and save youself sommore $$$ by buying urself a nice ratchet and socket set.. Maybe even an air compressor and impact. and do it youself. its easy buy a haynes manual and if you get stuck ask questions here. or look in tech. i Was 15 when i did my first ranger clutch. and it was the 4.0L comversion to boot. the only trouble i had was figuring out the starter wiring. but you dont even need to do that if you just replace the 2.9l one. (if you dont have to replace the clutch a tranny swap is even easier!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) and if you do it youself spend the mopmney you'd normally pay a shop to fix your truck on tools.. id way rather have $500 worht of brand new tool then paying some asshole shop $100 bux /hr to do something you could easilly do urself. (auto i would take to shop) OR replace with 5spd. just my 0.02$

ill be doing my frist clutch on my 89 with the 2.9 this weekend, i killed it and like posted it will go into any gear without the clutch...my had lots of smoke when it died i think it was stuck part way. im gonna do the 4.0 clutch and i figure that i should do a throwout bearing and rear main seal while im at it. if u want ill take pics and post on here. i suggest you do the same (throwout bearing and rearmain seal unless you kno there new).im also tossing a new starter on to be safe too. good to see another ranger owner from the denver area, hope to see ya on the trails

 

[baadboy11]

Hey if you are still looking for a good mechanic to diagnose, i'd check out

Hotchkiss Auto Repair
6918 E Colfax Ave Denver, CO 80220

Good honest guys, they have worked on my families vehicles for awhile.

GOOD LUCK!!