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clutch ADVICE needed asap


My 94 3.0 did the exact same thing...the clutch plate was just about shot and was starting to groove the cover a little....I replaced everything at the same time, master and slave, clutch cover, and plate...i didnt have the tool to remove the quick connect so i pushed out the roll pin holding the line in on the old slave cyllinder and cut the end off with a dremmel tool end put it all back toghether..I jacked the whole truck a foot and a half up on blocks and stands. Used a regular floor jack and had almost no problems except 4 broken exhaust studs....a cutting torch fixed that problem though....Good luck though!!!!
 
Fist and reverse sounds almost like synchronizers i know in most tranny they are the first to go. It happened in my dad's 91 3.0 he lost first and reverse at first it would grind going in they it would be really hard to get it in them he could not put it in. so he took it to the trany shop and they did the overhaul from above without dropping the trany. It was still 500 bucks but i think it would be cheaper then a clutch change
 
reverse doesn't have any synchronizers... When the clutch doesn't disengage all the way it does what he is describing- which is normally a hydraulic problem. If it is slipping, then I'd say the clutch is worn out. He didn't mention any slippage.
 
M5ODs have reverse synchronizers; others don't.

But 1st and Rev grinding do NOT indicate bad "synchros" They indicate something is grabbing the input shaft -- either an incompletely releasing clutch or a sticky pilot bearing or hosed internal bearing. Do you shift into any other gears from a standing stop?

Bad synchronizer assemblies and blocking rings do happen, but an automatic assumption in that direction is a reliable sign of inexperience.
 
Found a fluid leak above the drivers side quarter panel which leads me to believe this may be the master cylinder. I will check it out today during my break at work.
 

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