• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

cluch pedal


fairlanedave

New Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2011
Messages
4
Vehicle Year
1990
Transmission
Manual
What is the correct cluch pedal play on a 1990 Bronco with 4x4.
Now the engagement point is about 2 inches from the top of the travel.
Is this correct?
Dave
 
Now by "top of travel" do you mean where you can pull the pedal up to with your hand, or where it naturally returns to on it's own.

If the first, then that sounds about right.

If the second, that is low. Check the bell housing for fluid.
 
cluch

If I push the cluch pedal all the way to the floor(with the engine running) and then bring it up to engage the transmission the transmission engagement point is about 2 inches before the end of the upward travel, is this correct? Other manual shift vehicles I have driven the engagement point was about 2 to 3 inches off the floor?
Dave
 
Last edited:
The 2.9's clutch is a bit screwy. It catches really high because, quite honestly, it's too small.

Upgrading to a 4.0's clutch and flywheel will flip those numbers upside down. The clutch will engage much closer to the floor and take longer to release completely.
 
The 2.9's clutch is a bit screwy. It catches really high because, quite honestly, it's too small.

Upgrading to a 4.0's clutch and flywheel will flip those numbers upside down. The clutch will engage much closer to the floor and take longer to release completely.

I have to ask, why would you want it to take longer to release? seems like its begging for the driver to ride the clutch alot that way dont it?
 
The 2.9's clutch is a bit screwy. It catches really high because, quite honestly, it's too small.

Upgrading to a 4.0's clutch and flywheel will flip those numbers upside down. The clutch will engage much closer to the floor and take longer to release completely.

what are you talking about? I've been driving my 2.3 ranger for almost 12 years and the engagement point is always near the end of travel like the OP is talking about, my explorer with a manual tranny is EXACTLY the same, so have the other SEVERAL RBV's I've either driven or ridden in. With a hydraulic clutch the engagement point is going to be there at all times until the clutch is completely toast then it'll work higher until it won't move (believe me, I've gone through 4 clutches). The ONLY reason the clutch pedal would engage lower in the travel is if there is AIR in the hydraulic system which isn't a good thing, believe me, the slave and master in my explorer are shot, I know to add more fluid if the pedal goes soft.
 
what are you talking about? I've been driving my 2.3 ranger for almost 12 years and the engagement point is always near the end of travel like the OP is talking about, my explorer with a manual tranny is EXACTLY the same, so have the other SEVERAL RBV's I've either driven or ridden in. With a hydraulic clutch the engagement point is going to be there at all times until the clutch is completely toast then it'll work higher until it won't move (believe me, I've gone through 4 clutches). The ONLY reason the clutch pedal would engage lower in the travel is if there is AIR in the hydraulic system which isn't a good thing, believe me, the slave and master in my explorer are shot, I know to add more fluid if the pedal goes soft.

My 4.0 clutched 2.9 engages pretty low. 1/3 to 1/2 of the way up. And yes, it is working properly. The larger disk against the lower torque engine means it doesn't slip as bad and starts the vehicle moving sooner.
 
Last edited:
the amount of torque the engine has has nothing to do with where the clutch engages in the pedal travel...
 
the amount of torque the engine has has nothing to do with where the clutch engages in the pedal travel...

Larger surface = more force transfered. Less torque=less slip.

It is still not FULLY engaged until the pedal is out, yes, but you can move and take off sooner. Particularly on a hill.
 
the difference between disengaged and fully engaged should be about 1/4" of pedal travel no matter what. With a hydraulic clutch, just like hydraulic brakes once they're disengaged they're very close to the engaged point. If there's air in the system you can feather the clutch a LOT easier, and actually makes it a lot easier to wheel a truck with too tall of gears for the tires, Back when I was running the 31's and stock 2.3 right after I swapped to the new frame I had a small amount of air which made the pedal a little soft, easier to drive on the trails. The Centerforce clutch I put in my truck feels about the same as it did before and my explorer but just grabs harder.
 
the difference between disengaged and fully engaged should be about 1/4" of pedal travel no matter what.

are you shitting me? that seems like very little travel to go when starting off in a standard vehicle
 
maybe half inch or so, but it isn't far, I don't look at my foot while shifting very often :)
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Latest posts

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top