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Chrwilkins30's build


B2's are getting very rare these days, so if it was me I would do a 4.0 and dash swap and keep it.

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2
 
yup id keep it. hell in ontario i think ive only ever seen 3 b2s in 22 years one of which was actually rust free
 
I found a 94 explorer For $750 that im going to offer $600 for. It has been swiped on the passenger side. Everything works except the radio.

My plan it to swap the entire wiring harness and spice wires inside the interior.


INFO FROM AD

1994 Ford Explorer 226k Miles kept maintained.

The Good:
Solid Engine

Decent Interior

Sun Roof Does not leak

4WD

New Brake Lines and Master Cylinder

New Rear Shackles


The Bad:
Passenger Window does not roll down (needs support brace) motor is good. (NOT IMPORTANT)

Rocker Panels Rusted(NOT IMPORTANT)

Body Damage on passenger side(NOT IMPORTANT)

Transmission shift hards (been this way as long as I have had it 4 years)(NOT IMPORTANT Keeping m50d)
Radio does not work(NOT IMPORTANT)


Cranks right up every time, does not die, idles great runs great. Good tires all the way around. Has receiver for towing as well.


Im trying to get my friend Zack to go in on half because he want the axles and leafs and we could part out the rest and hopefully break close to even.

When I emailed him he said he would trust it to drive the 80 miles home.
 
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Sounds good, I'd pull the oil pan and check a few bearings and replace oil pump and some other things while the motor is out.

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2
 
Yep. I planed to change a few gaskets while it was out including the oil pump. Anything else I should replace.

Anyone know if a set of headers will fit with the motor swap
 
Yep. I planed to change a few gaskets while it was out including the oil pump. Anything else I should replace.

Anyone know if a set of headers will fit with the motor swap

If it has the common lifter ticking, might as well replace that. Maybe a complete gasket and seal replacement won't hurt either.
Headers should fit with no problems, the b2 is not that different than the explorer.

You will need the computer from a manual 4.0.

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2
 
Bought the explorer. Pics later tonight. Got it for $500 but split it between two people.

EDIT:
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Parting out everything I dont need. Look in the for sale section for info.
 
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End of Day 1

20121219_010734.jpg


Got the fenders off and the core support removed. Also got all the wire harness pulled back on the passenger side and alot on the driver. Still need to get the little bit by the firewall and remove dshafts and exhaust. Going to completely gut the A/C system.

Found cracks between every fan blade.
20121219_002813.jpg


One Friday, my buddy is dropping off his cherry picker, so hopefully the engine will be out this week before it starts snowing.

Going to the JY tomorrow to hopefully find a manual computer. They had a manual explorer awhile ago, hoping they didn't crush it already.
 
Found cracks between every fan blade.
20121219_002813.jpg

.


My BII is the same way, Also I was looking at my Father-in-laws Explorer, because the clutch is locked up on it and every one of his are the same way.

I took a day and walked around Pull-A-Parts , and every BII and Explorer, the fan had those splits in them.:icon_confused::icon_confused:



Robert



sent by Planet Express, and a bottle of M&M.
 
JY already scrapped the ex. That's only the second manual ex ive ever seen, guess ill have to find a different one.

Got the drive shafts out, had to remove shift motor to engage 4wd to loosen the front bolts, got the exhaust out from the cat back. going to try and keep the rest connected because the bolts are pretty rusting and don't want to spend a lot of time drilling out broken bolts. Also got the rest off the wiring pulled back and labeled, disconnected the PS lines, and stared removing the fuel lines.

QUESTIONS
1.What I need to know is where are people adapting the fuel line fittings. I saw what was in the tech library and I cannot tell where they are from.
2.Also there are 3 labeled fuel lines on the frame rail. What are they for and what can be eliminated.
3. How do you disconnect the fuel lines at the fuel filter.

Thanks
 
Figured out all my questions.

1. at the fuel filter
2. One is a feed, ones a return, and ones a vacuum line running to the evap canister.
3. bought a tool at sears, friend removed them but still cant get the ones right on the side of the motor.


Ended up pulling off the transfer case case it was hitting the floorboards. The damn cherry picker wasn't working correctly and wouldn't go up high enough. Also ended up cutting apart the y-pipe, again because the cherry picker wouldn't go high enough. I'll just weld it back on later.


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Going to really look over the motor Monday and figure out everything that's needed and place an order to RockAuto.
 
Looking at your pictures just reminds how much wiring is on today's engines compared to the engines of old, my 1975 302 has almost no wires, just a lot of vacuum lines.



Robert




posted with a newly sharpen Bic razor.
 
I know. I remember when pulling my buddys 22r from a 88 yota it had like 10 connectors and. Some vacumm ports and thats it.

I still have to pull all that wiring off before going any further to clean and inspect the damn thing.
 

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