Check valve bad?

[jewalker7842]

I have been doing research on this problem for weeks and I think I have come to conclusion that it is my check valve in the tank.

In the mornings I have to prime the pump about 5 times to get to the truck to start right up. I can turn the key just once, but it takes about 5 seconds to start up, and I don't want to wear out the starter. It will start right up if I don't let it sit for more than an hour.

I have done a recent tuneup on it. Plugs, plug wires, air filter, pcv valve, fuel filter, cleaned MAF and IAC valve. I have no CEL light on. I am getting an average of 17mpg mixed with city and highway driving with traffic.

I have not done a fuel pressure test yet. I do not know anybody that has a fuel pressure gauage that I can use. I do not feel like spending $50 if that can be used towards the fuel pump that I would need to replace if the check valve is bad. I'm going to put some Redline SI Fuel Injector Cleaner cleaner through it and see if it does anything. It is worth a shot. Highly doubt it has any effect on a check valve though.

It is a 2001 Ranger XLT 3.0 2WD with ~115000 miles on it. Other than the start up problem it runs great. Are there any other things I could try before I buy another pump and dig into this thing?

 

[modelageek]

I have been doing research on this problem for weeks and I think I have come to conclusion that it is my check valve in the tank.

In the mornings I have to prime the pump about 5 times to get to the truck to start right up. I can turn the key just once, but it takes about 5 seconds to start up, and I don't want to wear out the starter. It will start right up if I don't let it sit for more than an hour.

I have done a recent tuneup on it. Plugs, plug wires, air filter, pcv valve, fuel filter, cleaned MAF and IAC valve. I have no CEL light on. I am getting an average of 17mpg mixed with city and highway driving with traffic.

I have not done a fuel pressure test yet. I do not know anybody that has a fuel pressure gauage that I can use. I do not feel like spending $50 if that can be used towards the fuel pump that I would need to replace if the check valve is bad. I'm going to put some Redline SI Fuel Injector Cleaner cleaner through it and see if it does anything. It is worth a shot. Highly doubt it has any effect on a check valve though.

It is a 2001 Ranger XLT 3.0 2WD with ~115000 miles on it. Other than the start up problem it runs great. Are there any other things I could try before I buy another pump and dig into this thing?

I would run TECHRON in the tank........any chance you were using Shell gas?. Harbor freight has a fuel pressure gauge for $20.....AZ and other stores lend that out for free!


*if you do need a pump remove the Bed. I have a write up if you need it? Also make sure the fuel line is not kinked any where.

 

[jewalker7842]

I would run TECHRON in the tank........any chance you were using Shell gas?. Harbor freight has a fuel pressure gauge for $20.....AZ and other stores lend that out for free!


*if you do need a pump remove the Bed. I have a write up if you need it? Also make sure the fuel line is not kinked any where.

Thanks for the reply modelageek.

Normally, I do not run Shell gasoline, but I do fill up at Kroger most of the time. I know they have a contract with Shell, so I guess you could say I do. If I do not fill up at Kroger, it is at the local Mapco or BP in my town.

So you recommend TECHRON over Redline then?

I planned on removing the bed instead of dropping the tank. It is what I was going to do on the old Dodge, but decided to cut a hole in the bed instead lol.

I'm definitely no mechanic, but I know my way around under the hood.

 

[modelageek]

Thanks for the reply modelageek.

Normally, I do not run Shell gasoline, but I do fill up at Kroger most of the time. I know they have a contract with Shell, so I guess you could say I do. If I do not fill up at Kroger, it is at the local Mapco or BP in my town.

So you recommend TECHRON over Redline then?

I planned on removing the bed instead of dropping the tank. It is what I was going to do on the old Dodge, but decided to cut a hole in the bed instead lol.

I'm definitely no mechanic, but I know my way around under the hood.

For a while Shell had to much of an additive in its Gas....I think it might have been sulfur but I am not sure.... the additive was messing up check-valves and fuel sensors.......Techron claims to be able to clear up the issue.....I have nothing against redline I just know TECRON is a great product... do you have a flex fuel engine?.......the FP is a little different on those the all the others!

 

[jewalker7842]

For a while Shell had to much of an additive in its Gas....I think it might have been sulfur but I am not sure.... the additive was messing up check-valves and fuel sensors.......Techron claims to be able to clear up the issue.....I have nothing against redline I just know TECRON is a great product... do you have a flex fuel engine?.......the FP is a little different on those the all the others!

I recently got this truck about 3 months ago so I do not konw where the guy before me previously filled up at. I have ran the cheap arse O'Reilly Fuel Injector Cleaner and Seafoam through the gas tank, but this is my last ditch effort.

I do not have a FLEX its just a regular 3.0. I'm going to fill up with 93 and pour some TECHRON in and see what it does. I will give you an update on what happens. Thanks for the help. Hopefully it fixes the issue.

 

[Earl43P]

Because your fuel pressure regulator is part of that assembly, I do recommend you do a proper fuel pressure test (static, engine running, and engine running with the gas goosed which checks the FPR). It's a pretty big price jump from just the fuel pump to the entire assembly. I used Rockauto.com for the price references.

You should rule out that an injector is sticking open by "reading" the spark plugs. I'd expect the cylinder with a leaky injector to have a visible difference in the appearance of the spark plug. You could also drain the oil and see if it smells like gasoline. If so, suspect an injector.

 

[jewalker7842]

Because your fuel pressure regulator is part of that assembly, I do recommend you do a proper fuel pressure test (static, engine running, and engine running with the gas goosed which checks the FPR). It's a pretty big price jump from just the fuel pump to the entire assembly. I used Rockauto.com for the price references.

You should rule out that an injector is sticking open by "reading" the spark plugs. I'd expect the cylinder with a leaky injector to have a visible difference in the appearance of the spark plug. You could also drain the oil and see if it smells like gasoline. If so, suspect an injector.

Now I thought that 1998 and up didn't have an FPR since there is no return line and its all in the pump? Sorry if I misread that somewhere I'm pretty sure I am wrong. I know it has a pressure damper near the fuel rail.

I recently changed the oil and it did not smell like gas. I changed the plugs about a month ago as part of this ongoing tune up I have been doing. Teh old plugs didn't have any obvious color differences. I'll go ahead and check the new ones also. So the FPR is on top of the pump I'm guessing?

 

[jewalker7842]

The TECHRON thing did not work, which I didn't expect it to. Just a last minute thing to try.

I checked the oil and it does not smell like gas. I also checked the plugs and they are not discolored.

It seems to be getting worse. The fuel backs off after only 20-30 minutes where it used to be an hour or so. I'll see about finding me one of them pressure gauges and test the pressure.

 

[modelageek]

The TECHRON thing did not work, which I didn't expect it to. Just a last minute thing to try.

I checked the oil and it does not smell like gas. I also checked the plugs and they are not discolored.

It seems to be getting worse. The fuel backs off after only 20-30 minutes where it used to be an hour or so. I'll see about finding me one of them pressure gauges and test the pressure.

I think you said you don't have flex fuel?

when you get the gauge do a

1)koeo=how many cycles of the key does it take to get to 64 + -
2)koer=you are looking for 64 + -
3)when you shut the truck off the pressure should not drop more than about 6 psi in 10 minutes

 

[modelageek]

In case you need a fuel pump

In many cases Removing the Bed Helps in the aiding of repairs. ie. Fuel pump replacement, hanger and shackle replacement, etc

1)the fuel cap filler is held on with 3 bolts 7mm?

2)there is an electrical disconnect at the bumper for the taillights.

3)The bed is held on with 6 torx 55 bolts. 2 of the bolts closest to the cab are longer than the other 4. I recommend buying 2 torx 55 sockets in case one breaks. 4 or 5 of the bolts can be accessed from underneath and should be hit with a rust penetrator. I recommend at least one of the following, impact wrench, 1/2 ratchet with a pipe or a 1/2 breaker bar. it takes some muscle to remove the bolts.

4)The bed can be slid down for a fuel pump replacement or removed by 2 Men or one man and a cherry picker.

5) In the event you are removing the bed for a fuel pump replacement. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE NEG BATTERY TERMINAL.

6) You should change your fuel filter while the bed is off. A special tool is required. 5/16 FF performance tool W83130 or equivalent. hit the lines with pb blaster first.

7) I replaced my bolts with regular hex bolts. Ford wanted $16 a bolt. I ordered my online at the the boltdepot.com for less than $3 each. the 2 cloest to the cab are 12m x 1.75 x 120mm and the other 4 are 12m x 1.75 x 100mm. I got the storngest grade they had 10.9=for automotive use

8) I changed the rear hangers and shackles on my rear leaf springs. I used Dorman 722-010 and 722-001. all 4 pieces were less than $100. They come in a kit with everything you need, bolts etc. I used a grinder to grind the heads of the bolts off. this only took about 10 minutes a hanger. I had a dewault grinder and bought 2 metal grinding wheels at the home depot. I only used 1 they were about $3. I had a hard time getting the bushing out of the eye of the spring. I finally decided to use my drill and a good 1/4 bit. I drilled the rubber out that was in the middle of the bushing. the rest just slide out. I greased up the new bushing and temporarily put the bolt in and hammered it in the eye. You don't want to torque the bolts that attach the spring to the shackle until the truck is on the ground.

 

[jewalker7842]

In case you need a fuel pump

In many cases Removing the Bed Helps in the aiding of repairs. ie. Fuel pump replacement, hanger and shackle replacement, etc

1)the fuel cap filler is held on with 3 bolts 7mm?

2)there is an electrical disconnect at the bumper for the taillights.

3)The bed is held on with 6 torx 55 bolts. 2 of the bolts closest to the cab are longer than the other 4. I recommend buying 2 torx 55 sockets in case one breaks. 4 or 5 of the bolts can be accessed from underneath and should be hit with a rust penetrator. I recommend at least one of the following, impact wrench, 1/2 ratchet with a pipe or a 1/2 breaker bar. it takes some muscle to remove the bolts.

4)The bed can be slid down for a fuel pump replacement or removed by 2 Men or one man and a cherry picker.

5) In the event you are removing the bed for a fuel pump replacement. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE NEG BATTERY TERMINAL.

6) You should change your fuel filter while the bed is off. A special tool is required. 5/16 FF performance tool W83130 or equivalent. hit the lines with pb blaster first.

7) I replaced my bolts with regular hex bolts. Ford wanted $16 a bolt. I ordered my online at the the boltdepot.com for less than $3 each. the 2 cloest to the cab are 12m x 1.75 x 120mm and the other 4 are 12m x 1.75 x 100mm. I got the storngest grade they had 10.9=for automotive use

8) I changed the rear hangers and shackles on my rear leaf springs. I used Dorman 722-010 and 722-001. all 4 pieces were less than $100. They come in a kit with everything you need, bolts etc. I used a grinder to grind the heads of the bolts off. this only took about 10 minutes a hanger. I had a dewault grinder and bought 2 metal grinding wheels at the home depot. I only used 1 they were about $3. I had a hard time getting the bushing out of the eye of the spring. I finally decided to use my drill and a good 1/4 bit. I drilled the rubber out that was in the middle of the bushing. the rest just slide out. I greased up the new bushing and temporarily put the bolt in and hammered it in the eye. You don't want to torque the bolts that attach the spring to the shackle until the truck is on the ground.

Thanks for the tips. More than likely I will tackle this in the spring it's too darn cold out at the moment do be doing that sort of thing. Or I may just deal with the check valve problem and wait till the fuel pump decides to totally give out on me. It is just a minor inconvenience.

 

[rangerdanger85]

This thread is super old, but I'm having the same problem with the same exact truck. If I turn my key to power on without cranking for a few seconds then off and back on 2 or 3 times total the truck starts right up. If I don't it cranks for a good 4-5 seconds and then starts.

Curious to see if that was your problem? did you replace the check valve? and did it work? thanks

 

[Rearanger]

I do not know anybody that has a fuel pressure gauage that I can use.

Advance Auto, Auto Zone, etc. free tool loner program?