Check engine light

[Danman44]

96 2.3

P1443 evap emission purge sensor Valve malfunction

P1445 purge flow sensor circuit high input

Can anyone help me? I'm a construction equipment mechanic, I don't know what the word "emissions" means


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[adsm08]

There should be a valve on the line that runs from the throttle body to the evap canister behind the driver's headlight. That has probably failed.

 

[RonD]

EVAP system sucks gas fumes from the gas tank when engine is running, then holds a vacuum in the tank when engine is off, but just for 20-30minutes.
This is why you hear a whooshing noise when you remove gas cap at gas station.

So system has a vacuum hose from the intake manifold to a 12volt solenoid, this is often called the purge valve, computer sends it 12v to apply vacuum to the rest of the system.
From solenoid a hose will go to a Charcoal canister, usually mounted on Rad Support, it is large, there will also be a Pressure sensor or Purge sensor on this hose or the canister, it tells the computer if vacuum is present and how much.

Then there is a hose from the canister to gas tank.

Have a read here for specifics on 1996 Ranger 2.3l system: http://www.tomshints.com/FordRanger/FR_EPS.htm

 

[Danman44]

Thank you both. I'm pretty sure I replaced that Valve about a year ago though. Any way some thing else is wrong that is killing my valve? Or can I just take that thing out and jump the wires together and call it a day?


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[RonD]

Check the connectors on both electric parts.
Could be last valve was fine and simply unplugging it and plugging in new one fixed connection, temporarily.

No, no way to by-pass it, it is an active system with varying pressure, not just on/off.

And just as a heads up, EVAP codes can not be "cleared", you could replace the whole system with all new parts and code would still come up next time you drove it, computer has to cycle EVAP thru up to 10 drive cycles before it will reset a code.
1 drive cycle is cold engine warmed up to operating temp, 190+degF, then cooled down below 100degF.
So could take 10 days for an EVAP code to clear and CEL to go off

 

[Danman44]

So my truck was wrecked by the previous owner and I suspect it has a radiator out of a 3.0 or a 4.0 because it never gets up to normal operating temperature. So based on what you said RonD, I may have fixed my problem last year but the code came right back because it hasn't got hot enough


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[adsm08]

Evap codes can be cleared with a scanner, and they won't come back until the fault is seen again. These codes can't be cleared because they are circuit codes and the computer sees the problem as soon as it runs the circuit checks on start up.

 

[ratdude747]

Thank you both. I'm pretty sure I replaced that Valve about a year ago though. Any way some thing else is wrong that is killing my valve? Or can I just take that thing out and jump the wires together and call it a day?


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I've had new ones fail after a while. Frustrating as hell.

The way you test is is to remove the valve and suck on the arrowed side of the valve. If it lets any air through, it's bad (jammed). Warranty the valve.