Cheap walmart Amp & Sub. And some audio noob questions.

[koda6966]

I was hoping to do a little better, but once I got everything fixed on my Ranger (except that oil pan, still waiting on that) I'm left with enough money just to get some el-cheapo stuff.

I was thinking this sub.
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=7788886

With this amp.
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=10100094

Will they work together?

I'll be able to wire them up alright, but I have no clue as to the specifications I should look for for each. My main concern is not blowing out the sub, which shouldn't be a problem. The subs rated at 1200 I think. I haven't heard much about that brand of amp, so I have no clue if the quality will be any good, meaning I have no clue if it will put out anywhere's near the 1000 watts it says it will.

I think though, that the sub is 2ohm, but the amp will only put out 500 watts at 2ohm. Correct?

Is there any way that I can wire this sub and amp up to be 1ohm or would that be a bad idea/impossible?

 

[baxtej44]

I was hoping to do a little better, but once I got everything fixed on my Ranger (except that oil pan, still waiting on that) I'm left with enough money just to get some el-cheapo stuff.

I was thinking this sub.
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=7788886

With this amp.
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=10100094

Will they work together?

I'll be able to wire them up alright, but I have no clue as to the specifications I should look for for each. My main concern is not blowing out the sub, which shouldn't be a problem. The subs rated at 1200 I think. I haven't heard much about that brand of amp, so I have no clue if the quality will be any good, meaning I have no clue if it will put out anywhere's near the 1000 watts it says it will.

I think though, that the sub is 2ohm, but the amp will only put out 500 watts at 2ohm. Correct?

Is there any way that I can wire this sub and amp up to be 1ohm or would that be a bad idea/impossible?

people aren't going to like this due to the fact that the sub is an xplod..

but with what little knowledge i have.. this is what i'll give you with no judgement



the max wattage should never even be considered in buying a sub or amp.


ALWAYS look at the RMS, this is more the realistic output you will get.

the subs rms is "300w", and the amp is at "250".


those are both at 4ohms, unless i read incorrectly.
this will work fine, but generally you want your amp to be rated at slightly over the subs rms, because of the fact that you usually get a bit less than marketed, especially with "lower quality" products.

you will also need a box, but i'm assuming you knew that.




everybody who has knowledge, PLEASE correct me if I am wrong.

and to the OP, don't take any advice i give unless backed up by somebody else with more knowledge

 

[Loud Ranger]

autotek is decent for the money, walmart just started carrying them.
so the amp is stable down to 1 ohm, which gives you a few options as for subs, if you just want one 500-600w rms sub, shoot for a 2 ohm final load as the amp puts out 500 @ 2 ohms,

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...ksid=p3907.m29&_trkparms=algo=LVI&its=I&otn=2

kicker cvrs are pretty cheap and for an extra 25$ over the xplod is is a much better sub, but you would need a single 12" that has dual 4 ohm voice coils
if you want to step it up a bit get 2 of those cvr's in the link you would bring your final load down to 1 ohm and get the full 1000w rms out of that amp, at 400w rms a piece you would be fine giving each sub 500w. and if you choose to go this route you can buy one at a time and if 1 isnt enough buy a second one and you wont need to keep replacing your amp and sub to get louder make sure to get dual 4 ohm voice coils for your needs though

 

[koda6966]

I went with the Xplod because it was cheap, and I could get free delivery to my local Walmart. Otherwise, I hate Xplod.

Normally I'd be in the market for a Pioneer or Kenwood sub, and a Pioneer or Soundstream amp. Lack of cash leaves me with cheap walmart crap.

I didn't notice that about that sub, I could have sworn I read 2ohm somewhere.

What is the difference between the Nominal RMS and Max RMS?

Nominal (RMS) Output Power: 330 Watt
Max (RMS) Output Power: 1200 Watt

And like I said, I know nothing about amps and subwoofers. So any knowledge/help would be fine.

Probably the only thing I am good at is designing boxes for them. I'll be using one with this design (done by me) if I decide to go with one sub. I think I might change it up a bit when I get some more funds and knowledge about fiberglass by putting the sub into a custom glassed box. This one is done up with MDF for the sub portion and some chip board or standard plywood for the storage part. Or MDF if it's the same price/cheaper. I dunno yet. This was designed for a 12, but could be modded for a 10.

I also have a dual 10" subwoofer design, which I would rather do but I'm slightly apprehensive to lose my storage space..

 

[Loud Ranger]

always go by rms power, max power ratings are worthless. that sub handles 250w rms so it will blow pretty easily even if you ran your amp at 4 ohms

you best bet if your running 1 sub is get a alpine type r, if you get dual 2 ohm you will have a 1ohm final load and get the full 1000w from your amp. you can find them on ebay for under 140 and the handle 1500w rms.

spend wisely as its cheaper to buy decent stuff to start with instead of always relplacing blown/crappy equipment

 

[koda6966]

Hmm.. nice find, but it says 50-400 watts RMS, so tecnically wouldn't the amp be too much for it? Or no.. because they don't put out what they say.. I have no clue.

It's also 4 ohm, so wouldn't the amp have to be wired up as 4ohm as well, allowing only 250 watts?

Another thing, something I have never understood is ported boxes, can anyone explain these to me? I hear that they are supposed to be better.

 

[koda6966]

always go by rms power, max power ratings are worthless. that sub handles 250w rms so it will blow pretty easily even if you ran your amp at 4 ohms

you best bet if your running 1 sub is get a alpine type r, if you get dual 2 ohm you will have a 1ohm final load and get the full 1000w from your amp. you can find them on ebay for under 140 and the handle 1500w rms.

spend wisely as its cheaper to buy decent stuff to start with instead of always relplacing blown/crappy equipment

So go by the Nominal RMS output then? Alrighty.

And that's why I made this thread, to spend wisely.

I have heard good things about Alpine HU's but never seen one of their subs in action.

 

[stockfornow]

with the ported box it depends on the sub but with mine it gave me cleaner bass

 

[koda6966]

I plan on doing my box ported once I get funds together to do the fiberglass box, until then it will be sealed to keep it simple.

And Loud Ranger, I checked out those Alpines. Most of them say 50-500RMS, which isn't much better than the Cheap Walmart sub.

Maybe I should down-grade on the Amp? What do you guys think about the Dual brand at Walmart? Crappy or no?

 

[Loud Ranger]

Hmm.. nice find, but it says 50-400 watts RMS, so tecnically wouldn't the amp be too much for it? Or no.. because they don't put out what they say.. I have no clue.

It's also 4 ohm, so wouldn't the amp have to be wired up as 4ohm as well, allowing only 250 watts?

Another thing, something I have never understood is ported boxes, can anyone explain these to me? I hear that they are supposed to be better.

its actually two 4 ohm voice coils which can be wired to 2 or 8 ohms
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=1&I=42

that link is a calulator where you can tell it how many subs you have and what voice coils they are and it will show you all the wiring options

with a 2 ohm final load you would get 500w which would be fine as long as you set your gain right, personally id run the cvr sealed as it will require less space and sound better across a wider range but will lose some output compared to a ported box

when you run ported your sub will perform better at the tuned freq of the box but when playing anything below the box's freq. it will basically be playing free air and mechanical damage can happen. if you set your subsonic filter just below your tuning freq you can prevent that damage.

i have a cvr personally and it sounded good and got louder than expected for a sealed 12" in 1 cubic foot sealed box. i switched it to a 3.5 cf ported box tuned to 36 hz and it did better on the lows but didnt sound as clear or responsive but it was louder so it depends on what you prefer.
you can change the response of a ported box with different tuning but you need a sub which performs well at that freq

 

[Loud Ranger]

I plan on doing my box ported once I get funds together to do the fiberglass box, until then it will be sealed to keep it simple.

And Loud Ranger, I checked out those Alpines. Most of them say 50-500RMS, which isn't much better than the Cheap Walmart sub.

Maybe I should down-grade on the Amp?

were you looking at type r's or type s's? never used one myself, i liked my cvr when i used it and its a very good bang for the buck sub. id stick with that amp because it put out some good power for cheap.

 

[koda6966]

I was looking at type R's. They had 1500 max, but only 50-500RMS

And I would like the whole setup to be on the cheap side, so if in order to get decent priced subs I will have to go with a weak amp at a similar price, I will.

 

[Loud Ranger]

I was looking at type R's. They had 1500 max, but only 50-500RMS

oops my bad for some reason i thought they took more

 

[koda6966]

Nope, they do look beefy and high quality though.

I might stray away from Walmart.. there's a certain sub I like that I can get online elsewhere, I'll see if I can find it.

 

[koda6966]

In my search for the sub I was looking for I found the amp I origionally decided on, for 40 dollars cheaper and with free shipping.

Anyone use www.onlinecarstereo.com?