Cheap walmart Amp & Sub. And some audio noob questions.

[Loud Ranger]

ya i bought a few things from them years ago and wasnt a bad company to deal with, also try http://www.sonicelectronix.com/

 

[koda6966]

I was just wondering, because Mozilla blocked it as an attack site. Haha.

Hopefully my head unit will hold up and I wont have to replace that as well. It's been acting funny, I have a feeling it's the wiring. I was short changed on shrink joints and ended up twisting and taping two wires.. BAD idea. Except it's just the rear speaker wires, so I have no clue why it would cause it to shut off.

 

[rjppunk]

I just made an 800$ order from www.onlinecarstereo.com saved myself 200 bucks on hu alone in comparison to www.crutchfield.com price.

 

[koda6966]

800 dollars is a big chunk of change. I'm only going to spend around 200. Haha.

Basically whatever my cap sells for is what I will have to work with. I'm aiming for 200 for that. Plus my parents will pitch in the money for the wiring, MDF, etc.

 

[thepretzelman]

I have also been looking into getting a sub setup in the same price range as you and this is the best price to power i could find

Sub:
http://cgi.ebay.com/07-KICKER-CVR12-12-CVR-CAR-SUB-SUBWOOFER-CompVR-D2-new_W0QQitemZ200316084490QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Subwoofers_Enclosures?hash=item200316084490&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A15|39%3A1|240%3A1318

Amp:
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-HIFONICS-TXi4008-2CH-400W-CAR-AMPLIFIER-AMP_W0QQitemZ110365933033QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item110365933033&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A15|39%3A1|240%3A1318

 

[koda6966]

I think I might go with those Kicker subs. It depends on if I can get my brother to do the ebay thing for me. I don't have an account.

 

[Loud Ranger]

pick up a prepaid mastercard/visa that is reloadable, that what i use to buy stuff online much more secure than using a real credit card/bank card

 

[4x4fun]

hey buddy, $$$ talks man so im not gonna bust your balls for the exploed, but that thing wont run 1 ohm stable, most amps cant, they make amps just for that. max rms and rms is bull use the little of the two, when trying to figure out rms from the max. try and look at the specs, but if you cant them 4ohm is about 1/4 of max, 2 ohm is about half. so if it was 400w max, 4 ohms is 100w 2 ohm is 200watts

and the rms range in subs, is mis leading, the VC can take some heat build up,

50w is what it takes to get it to run "correctly" but the VC can handle up to 500w the more you have the harder you can push it, with good sound, anything over that the VC heats up to much.

 

[Loud Ranger]

the amp he picked is one ohm stable, and alot of amps are 1 ohm stable just not most of the mainstream brands

 

[4x4fun]

sorry. i was flying thur the posts,

the orignal set would work and you have a grasp on everything. rock out man

 

[koda6966]

I think I'm starting to understand this whole amp - sub thing.

That amplifyer is rated at 250 for 4ohms, and the sub woofer is rated at 350 for 4ohms. So I should be good.

When I get the chance and funds to upgrade, I can rewire the amp and ditch the old sub to go with a 2ohm/500watt system or 1ohm/1000 watt upgrade if I could find a sub that could do that.

How loud will this setup be in theory, if it's wired up to 4ohms? Meaning -> will it be worth my money and time?

 

[Ranger#1]

i would spend the bux and go big on the wiring so you dont have to do it again that shit gets expencive when you have to do it over and over again

 

[koda6966]

There's another thing I should make sure of on here, that my wiring components are all ok. I'll do some research and post up what I think I'll do.

 

[1stHand]

bump

when you upgrade buy 2 or 4 subs rated at 4 ohms, dont get dual voice coils, if wired up wrong can cause $ome problem$.

So wired in parallel 2=2 ohms 4=1 ohm so 500w/2 speakers or 1000w/4 speakers.
high current amplifier will give each speaker 250w rms down to a 1ohm load.

woofers require a certain amount of cubic air to resonate (bump) at a certain frequency(woof) remember that when making a box.

this amp should let you dial in the lows.

kenwood and panasonic were never that kind to me in the past, in the past the rule of thumb was if they made a headunit they cant make woofers.
id stick with MTX , kicker, ma, or get 1 JL 15"

but research it 1st.

 

[1stHand]

50w will rattle your subwoofer
250w will rattle your mirrors.

I think I'm starting to understand this whole amp - sub thing.

That amplifyer is rated at 250 for 4ohms, and the sub woofer is rated at 350 for 4ohms. So I should be good.

When I get the chance and funds to upgrade, I can rewire the amp and ditch the old sub to go with a 2ohm/500watt system or 1ohm/1000 watt upgrade if I could find a sub that could do that.

How loud will this setup be in theory, if it's wired up to 4ohms? Meaning -> will it be worth my money and time?