Changing Ball Joints..

[94STXRanger]

So i need to change the ball joints on my truck. I just need to know if the axle shafts need to come out to do it? And if i want to change the ujoints, do the axles just pull out?
Thanks for the help guys.

 

[LonesomeSTX]

Pull the hubs and spindles first. on the driver side you will (if it has not been done already) have to cut the band that holds the boot in place on the axle shafts. Do you have a ball joint tool?

 

[94STXRanger]

Yeah i do. I work at oreily auto parts so i got that stuff.

 

[LonesomeSTX]

then you are set. Pulling the joints is self explanitory. Once you get the hubs and knuckles out fo the way.

 

[94STXRanger]

alright thanks for the info

 

[wizkid00104]

I just did mine and I recommend anti-seizing the hell out off every threaded piece you remove. Mine were unbearably seized and disassembly took for ever.

 

[Nailzs]

when i did similiar front end work on my ranger i also put grease between the knuckle and spindle, as that was pretty well rusted also

 

[AllanD]

A Ball joint press tool (Specially made C-clamp) is a necissity.

getting the old ones out is the "fun" part of the job.

You first need to remove the brakes, The "spindle" (tube axle)
then the shafts
This step is something a 10year old girl can do with a slide hammer and the correct adapter, without the tool I've seen grown men cry with frustration.

NEXT work on the lower balljoint nut (and it's cotter pin)
through the "open window" in the knuckle.

Once you have the nut out remove the Circlip from the upperballjoint stem and work on the "pinch bolt"

Once you have the pinch bolt out make a note of the orientation of the adjuster cam before you "worry" the cam out of the beam.

After you have the cam out the knuckle will essentially be "hanging" by the friction of the lower balljoint tapered stud.

To get that out you need a 3lb hammer.

whack the HELL out of the sides of the beam.
If you hit it right (as hard as you can which is generally
harder than you think you can) the knuckle will literally fall off the beam with onlky a couple of blows.

I can't remember the last beam I had to hit more than five times
to get the lower balljoint out of the beam....


but I've had practice...




LOTS of practice




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[94STXRanger]

so what is the tool to pull out the axle shaft? A slide hammer and what?

 

[wizkid00104]

so what is the tool to pull out the axle shaft? A slide hammer and what?

Hands. If you need anything else, your going be rebuild the whole axle. The drivers side pull right out. The passengers side comes out at the slip yoke half way down the shaft. The other end is c clipped in the axle housing.

Good Luck and God Speed!!!

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

You use a slide hammer with a spindle nut attachment to pull the spindle. Once the spindle is off the axle shafts just pull out. Except the passenger inner shaft, the diff has to come off of the beam to remove the E clip from the end of the shaft.

 

[94STXRanger]

but i shouldnt need to do that right? It splits half way correct? About how long has a job like this taken you guys?

 

[AllanD]

Yeah, more or less the shaft splits halfway.

The only difficult thing is getting it back together "in-phase"

There is no "blind spline" to force you to reassemble the slip joint correctly.
but aligning it "By eye" is good enough, you just need to understand that
the "loops" need to be clocked so they are "lined up"

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[94STXRanger]

The "loops" being the joint yokes? The need to be in the same plane right? Cant i just mark the two shafts?

 

[AllanD]

Yeah, the loops being the joint yokes.

And a paint stripe works perfectly.

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