Changed brake shoes... multiple lights came on

[bduke23]

Well I decided for the first time to try changing brake shoes on my 93 ranger. Bought the spring tool, and went real slow taking my time. I did one side at a time, so I could copy the other side exactly. Bought a new hardware kit for it, changed the wheel cylinder on one side (it was leaking), and put anti seize everywhere the shoes contacted the backing plate. Bled the new cylinder, and took it out for a drive. Brakes were real soft at first, so I put the e brake on several time to adjust them, and they then felt much better. A couple blocks later, all of a sudden both the e brake light and abs light came on. Brakes still seemed to stop fine, however I could clearly hear something dragging inside the drum on the passenger side. I am 99% sure that I must have put something together wrong, but I copied each side exactly, and double and triple checked. That was late last night, I will have another look at it after work today. Anybody have any ideas what would set those lights off? And does anybody have or know where there is a good picture of all the springs and what not?

 

[gcfishguy]

You didn't say that you topped off the fluid. If you didn't, you're low because of the fluid you lost when you bled the new wheel cylinder.

Buy brake fluid in small quantities since you shouldn't use any from a previously opened container. (Brake fluid will absorb water from exposure to air.)

Check the level and top off and the lights will likely go away. Then check what came unhooked and is making the noise...

Always start the vehicle and pump the brakes to get a firm pedal after doing the brakes...otherwise the first couple pumps will only serve to bring the caliper pistons and cylinder plungers out to the point that they will start doing something. I know more than one person that hit something because they pulled it into gear and had no pedal when they tried to stop the first time.

 

[bduke23]

Didn't think to check the fluid in the master cylinder. I have a container of brake fluid, but it is new as I just recently changed the master cylinder too. My suspicion is that the e brake system came undone, because when I pulled the drum not quite a week ago to check the shoes, the e brake bracket, spring, and adjuster fell out as soon as the drum was off. This happened on the same wheel that is making the noise. I make sure that I have pumped the pedal and have pressure before driving, don't worry.

 

[gcfishguy]

I make sure that I have pumped the pedal and have pressure before driving, don't worry.

Yup, just mentioned it in case anyone who had never had their brakes apart happened to read through this thread.

Hopefully topping off the fluid will bring it up to the correct level and turn out the warning lights.

Good luck!

 

[bduke23]

I sure hope so. Low fluid would definately make one light come on, but which one? Or would it trigger them both?

 

[Tedybear]

General side bar note: When installing new shoes? You want to use that small hole with the rubber booty installed to access the star wheel adjuster. In general you install everything and put the drum on. Then slowly turn the adjuster with either an adjuster 'spoon' or if you're cheap like me? Screwdriver normally works fine.

You want to adjust the shoes up until they JUST make contact with the drum. Do both sides...Then have someone hit the brakes a few times--this will help center everything..Recheck by spinning the drum---if the shoes are not contacting the drum? SLOWLY ratchet up the adjuster until the shoes just make contact.

That normally gets the settings within a click or two of being correct. Also the parking brake doesn't and shouldn't be used to adjust the shoes! Not saying you did this---but I've seen a lot of people crank their adjuster nut on the cable to make up for a low brake pedal.. The adjuster works ONLY when the truck is being driven in REVERSE! The shoes actually (if loose) will rock inside the drum slightly, and the self adjuster's little arm will click down on the star wheel all by itself. It's setup to only do this action during backing up.

I'd top off the fluid and re-bleed the system again. This way you have the best chance of getting not only air out, but that nasty old fluid that can gum up stuff.

S-

 

[bduke23]

Ok brake fluid fixed the lights, but theres a new problem. The shoes are not even close to being centered? Between the lip on the backing plate and the shoe, on the front there is a bout a quarter inch, on the back almost a full inch. I cannot figure out why it will not center. When driving, I can clearly feel the one side catching, but it lurches is the best way I can describe it. I suppose it is sort of like rocking... I never went backwards though. I will retry, this time driving backwards.
The neighbors are gonna think theres something wrong with me ha ha

 

[Tedybear]

Just wondering...Does the star wheel adjuster look like it's still turned in all the way? Or does it have about 1/2 inch or so of threads showing?

S-

edit: From the sounds of it? The brakes are not adjusted up correctly. Try the method I listed, it can take several tries. However once you adjust it so it has light--very light drag on the drum when you turn it..and it remains like that after hitting the pedal a few times? It should be good to go. The back-up auto adjusters are meant for long term adjustments over time. Not the heavy duty adjustment needed after a brake job.

 

[bduke23]

Ok update. Works beautifuly in reverse, forward for about 5 feet and that wheel locks up. I am very confused and frustrated at this point....
Could someone kindly, in great detail, explain the adjusting process from start to finish?

 

[r1hatman]

the whole brake apparatus will be opposite on both sides don't try to put each side back like the other side, they are reverse of each other. Don't forget that. That messed me up few times when I first got started. Put the breaks back together, put the wheel back on turn the wheel and it should spin freely, turn the adjusting wheel until the wheel just begins to slow down and it should be where it won't spin without your making it turn, then you should be good. You can go to online to your library online and get access to free Chilton manuals. and see how they go together. I f you can't do it let me know and I'll try to get a schematic to post for you.

 

[bduke23]

Yep, got that. Sorry, by copied the other side exactly I really meant that I copied it but I copied it front to back, not shoe to shoe.... if that makes any sense

 

[bduke23]

You can go to online to your library online and get access to free Chilton manuals

How do I do this?

 

[r1hatman]

try this;
http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/ContentViewer/CVFrameset.aspx

Click on brakes and removal and installation. Hope this helps.

 

[r1hatman]

That help?

 

[bduke23]

I cannot find where you are saying to click. I tried finding it through my university library, but with no luck.