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Catalytic Converter Questions


Moreflying

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2009
Messages
110
City
California
Transmission
Manual
I live in California and have a few questions on converters for my 94 2.3L Ranger .

1. Is it legal to replace my own converter or does a shop have to do it?

2. Does a converter have a useful life? I've read they are able to last the life of the vehicle. I have a smog coming up and the last one (two years ago) had marginal readings but passed. I have over 217,000 miles on it. I'll have to say it's done its job over the years as I'm the original owner. I've welded some stress crack on the cat two different times to get more life out of it. Anyway...I'm thinking of replacing it.

3. If I can/do replace it, is there a break-in time before I take it in for the smog check?
Thanks
 
Pretty sure if you get a direct replacement cat there should be no issues with you bolting it in place.

They don't normally wear out so to say, they can be damaged by a poor running engine that is dumping raw fuel into the cats which will overheat/melt them causing them to plug up and fail.

There is no break-in period for a catalytic converter.
 
As far as I know, you can replace it yourself. When I had a new one put on my daughter's Jeep, the guy at the exhaust shop just walked across the street to the parts store and got one. It often involves welding but it looks like you can do that. The parts book will probably list a "factory fit" that will cost more and a "universal fit" that will be cheaper but may require some fudging.

Generally speaking they are good as long as the CEL isn't on but with 200k+ yours is probably toast. You're in CA but in a lot of the country vehicles don't last that long because they rust apart, so cats wearing out is not an issue.

My daughter's Jeep had 140k+ when I bought it, no CEL but it barely passed smog and the mpg and acceleration was terrible. I took a shot and had the cat replaced and it is much better on both counts now.
 
Thanks guys..I'm going to put a new on in and see what I get! I'll post a picture when done.
 
there is technically a break in time, part of my job is to do emissions tests and calibrate engines...

but that being said it is just to stabilize the emissions, the manufacturers generally say to run the cat in/out temps to around 500*C for 6-8 hours. It's not going to hurt a thing if you skip it though, might do better on the test if it's been there for a while though.

When you go in for the test, drive it hard to get the cat up to temperature and go at a time when there isn't a line, you'll get the best results if the cat doesn't cool down.
 
I live in California and have a few questions on converters for my 94 2.3L Ranger .

1. Is it legal to replace my own converter or does a shop have to do it?

2. Does a converter have a useful life? I've read they are able to last the life of the vehicle. I have a smog coming up and the last one (two years ago) had marginal readings but passed. I have over 217,000 miles on it. I'll have to say it's done its job over the years as I'm the original owner. I've welded some stress crack on the cat two different times to get more life out of it. Anyway...I'm thinking of replacing it.

3. If I can/do replace it, is there a break-in time before I take it in for the smog check?
Thanks

not sure if it help, but i hear running hi grade gas,and changing the oil before you go can help.
 
When you go in for the test, drive it hard to get the cat up to temperature and go at a time when there isn't a line, you'll get the best results if the cat doesn't cool down.

This is so true. In fact, truer things could not be said about trying to pass emissions.

I took my car (1995 VW Golf) in for Aircare, after a good rip on the highway and through the city and shit, getting everything nice and hot, then took it through the hardest-to-access Aircare station so there would be no line-up... She passed with flying colors. I have since checked online to see the previous aircare results on this particular automobile, and the most recent test was the best results in 6 years. I assume the previous owners did not get the cat nice and hot before testing it.
 
A lot of other good tips guys and thank you. So, this is what I went with...It's a Magnaflow brand. It wasn't that much of a difference in price for the direct fit so I saved myself some time :icon_welder: a universal. Now I just have to check the fuel filler hose at the base to make sure it isn't cracked. I failed the "Evap" test last time because of that. California is crazy.
 
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not sure if it help, but i hear running hi grade gas,and changing the oil before you go can help.

Premium gas won't make a difference and in fact may give worse results, changing the oil can help slightly.
Higher octane gas burns slower so if you run it when it is not necessary, it can have the effect of retarding the timing and increasing emissions.
 
All done with the work. I replaced my fuel filler hose and checked my evap lines up to the charcoal canister. I had it smogged and passed like it was a new truck. The guy noticed that I put on the new cat. He didn't say anything about it.
Interesting note: I was talking with the guy doing the test and he said he went to a training. He told me the higher powers don't let him warm the converter for testing. He thinks "they" want these older vehicles to fail. It doesn't surprise me here in California. I really think the environmental loons would like nothing better than to crush our aging vehicles (even though well kept like mine) by continuing to add on and on with the regulations until what passes today would fail miserably 5 years from now. :mad: This crap really hurts the little guy. Well, I'm good for another 2 years. :annoyed:

Thanks for the good info guys. I can't belive how well the new converter did for the numbers though..
 
All done with the work. I replaced my fuel filler hose and checked my evap lines up to the charcoal canister. I had it smogged and passed like it was a new truck. The guy noticed that I put on the new cat. He didn't say anything about it.
Interesting note: I was talking with the guy doing the test and he said he went to a training. He told me the higher powers don't let him warm the converter for testing. He thinks "they" want these older vehicles to fail. It doesn't surprise me here in California. I really think the environmental loons would like nothing better than to crush our aging vehicles (even though well kept like mine) by continuing to add on and on with the regulations until what passes today would fail miserably 5 years from now. :mad: This crap really hurts the little guy. Well, I'm good for another 2 years. :annoyed:

Thanks for the good info guys. I can't belive how well the new converter did for the numbers though..

They are motivated to crush our old cars, but not for environmental reasons. Its all about selling more new cars.

grats on the pass.
I wouldn't expect him to say anything about a new cat, old ones have to be replaced all the time...
 
Interesting note: I was talking with the guy doing the test and he said he went to a training. He told me the higher powers don't let him warm the converter for testing. He thinks "they" want these older vehicles to fail.

[OT] A few years ago where my parents live in FL, the local sheriff's office busted some state environmental dept workers planting turtle eggs on the beach in the middle of the night. Eggs on beach = endangered species lives here = no one can build another hi-rise condo. [/OT]
 
Premium gas won't make a difference and in fact may give worse results, changing the oil can help slightly.
Higher octane gas burns slower so if you run it when it is not necessary, it can have the effect of retarding the timing and increasing emissions.

Good to clear up some myths:icon_thumby:
 
I ran 87 octane for the test. That is what it was set up for and I've always used it with the exception of really hot summer months and get a ping. I'll go to 89 octane.
 
I ran 87 octane for the test. That is what it was set up for and I've always used it with the exception of really hot summer months and get a ping. I'll go to 89 octane.
Different parts of the country get different blends of gas at different times of the year. Where I live we get the crappy gas in the summer. When I had a 3.0 Ranger it pinged like crazy on the summer gas and I'd have to run at least 89. My last few trucks have been 4.0 SOHC's and don't seem to care.
 

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