Carb Float...

[Mark_88]

Well, the Ranger started acting up on me recently...would stall out for no apparent reason and would not start for a few minutes (good indication of flooding)...

I took the carb apart last night to see if the jets were plugged like last time, and they were not...then I put it back together and turned on the key...gas was dripping into the secondary cylinder after the electric fuel pump shut off...sort of what would happen at idle or coming down from a highway drive...

Took it apart this morning and tweaked the float level...seems to have corrected it...I saw the float level set procedure in a recent (and decent) post on adjusting the Motorcraft 2150 (couldn't find it to refer to it, but I remembered vaguely how to do it)...

I'm hoping that I won't have to keep adjusting it...also checked the fuel pump pressure to see if maybe it was too strong for the needle...came out at just under 7 psi so I'm hoping that is OK...there is no adjustment on the pump itself and was considering trying to find a pressure regulator...not even sure if they make them for this application...

Keeping fingers crossed...

 

[John Smith]

Just a quick response.

Is the "electric" fuel pump a recent upgrade?...also what carb are you running and is it also a new upgrade..in other words did this just start happening after 150K miles of trouble free use?...
a little more info would help the rest of us wonder how to join in your curiosity. I've heard that some carbs like 4-6lbs of fuel..

Also it comes to mind as I ponder that a mechanical pump may only work when the engine is using fuel (running or cranking)..vs: an electric pump which only knows off and on..and constant fuel pressure.....which would demand a perfectly set/good/usable needle and seat..on some carbs...

Best wishes...i personally like an electric pump..but I would also like to see a measurable pressure regulator as well...that would be a perfect world..and they are available..I believe

 

[steve63]

on a carborated engine,generaly you're looking for about 5-7psi,so you're in the ball park,sounds like you have a hole in you're float,very common problem with the modern styrene float,how to check for a leaky float,simple,take the float off and shake it,if you hear liquid inside the float,it has a hole in it and is keeping you're needle and seat up in you're carb,causing a flooding condition

 

[Mark_88]

OK, thanks for the input guys...

This is a 5200 Motorcraft carb that I've had for about six years and had put upwards of 100,000 km or more with relatively few problems...one of the main problems I had before the rebuild (engine and body in 2004 but it hasn't been driven untill recently) was it would sporadically just die on the highway (and this was with both a manual and electric pump so I ruled out that).

What I suspect was happening was that the engine would flood...because after removing the breather and letting it sit for a few minutes it would start right up and carry on down the highway...but it would happen almost like clockwork on wet days...so I thought that maybe I was getting road spray on the wires and causing the spark to short out, thereby causing the engine to flood (backfire was a problem).

However, this recent problem happened on dry roads mostly and was indicating flooding again. When I took the carb apart about a month ago to correct the needle (which was blown or shaken out of place causing the pump to keep pumping and flooding) problem and the jet plug (teflon tape broke off and plugged the primary jet) I think I set the float a bit too high.

There doesn't appear to be any leaks in the float (it looks like plastic with just air inside) and since setting the float lower the problem has cleared up.

I prefer the electric pump also simply because you can't tell if the manual is working unless you install clear lines...with the electric I can feel it pumping and I can also remove the line from the filter and see the gas flowing. I currently do not have an option for a manual pump due to the block not having the hole (bolt holes are there but I would need to cut through the block to insert the manual pump...which I do happen to have a new one thereof)...

I will also add here that the carb is somewhat incomplete. The high idle kick down was lost (I have no idea where I put it)...the choke is not connected (I put a manual choke on it but it doesn't actually need it, even in the coldest of winter days)...and there are other parts missing...I printed out a carb diagram from the on-line resource and I think there are three parts that should be there on an otherwise normal system.

Because I'm using a 2.0 wiring harness, the only options I had with that were the automatic choke, the bowl overflow, and something else that I have no idea now what it was connected to...something to do with emissions I would imagine, but I don't have any of that connected. And this creates a slight problem as far as getting my Drive-Clean E-test done this year (which I was told I didn't need, but now the MOT says I DO need)...

Anyways, after checking the fuel pressure to make sure it wasn't over 7 psi, I'm going to forgo the regulator for now...and hope that I don't have to keep setting the float, especially now with the colder weather where gas on the hands can be very painful...

 

[John Smith]

If you ever get a chance

to locate a brass float for that carb..i would ..I guess I'm old school..you can actually repair them..good luck

 

[John Smith]

I had to get out some other reference stuff

I seemed to remember that the weber/5200 variants may like lower fule pressure..i actually have one on a spare 2.3L i may be using later this winter so i thought I'd get back to you about fuel pressure recommendations..

From a WIKI on weber 32/36 5200 variants..."Fuel Pump Requirement

The 32/36 requires a low-pressure fuel feed (2.5 to 3 lbs). This matches the stock Datsun 1200 pump (2.6 lbs).

If using newer A14/A15 pumps which can go up to 3.6 lbs, or electric fuel pumps, a fuel pressure regulator is recommended. Excessive pressure can cause problems with the float, at the least cause erratic operation due to float spillage and at the worst causing flooding (gasoline overflowing the float chamber). "

end quote..

This has caused me to identify the carb i will use if it's rebuild-able..and may cause me to use a pressure reg on the new Mallory pump i have...i noticed that Mallory offered a low pressure version for Weber carbs when i bought it...i think it may make a difference..you might check this info out...regards:

OK, thanks for the input guys...

This is a 5200 Motorcraft carb that I've had for about six years and had put upwards of 100,000 km or more with relatively few problems...one of the main problems I had before the rebuild (engine and body in 2004 but it hasn't been ......................hands can be very painful...

 

[Mark_88]

That's interesting...and thank you for following up. The pump I have was rated between 4 and 7 psi but it seems to be about 6.5 which may have been causing some or most of my issues. They included the periodic stalling/flooding as well as really pathetic gas mileage...

I haven't been really able to see if adjusting the float has helped, but I certainly don't smell gas around the engine compartment like I have been, and it has been running really steady since adjusting the float.

The nice thing about this pump is that it has been a consistent performer. It also allows me to drain off gas if/when I need to work on the tank (new gas tank so that shouldn't happen for a while) or if I need some gas for something else.

Currently, I have it mounted on the inner fender but I had it on the rail. I moved it back up to the inner fender since having this stalling issue because I had thought it might have been due to the pump shutting down (wiring was questionable).

Since I'm not in a position to be able to buy a different pump (the guy who sold it to me said it would work fine with this carb) right now I'm hoping that moving the float will help it to control the fuel flow.

 

[John Smith]

best wishes..

Well, I know I sure have been doing some research on these older weber licensed Holleys since this thread came up...i have found some great utube vids on them as well...seems to be a good carb if set up well..and there arte many options going back to the early 70's...

somewhat same as the Weber 32/36 variety...but at least a progressive 2bbl carb that can be tuned for max performance or economy based on venturi and jetts...again best wishes..

 

[Mark_88]

I appreciate the input...seems not too many people have carbs anymore...and it's always good to have information that for some reason I can never find when I need it...or before so I can do without the headaches...