Can't go into gear sitting still

[deadbeat]

I am having trouble with getting my truck in gear sitting still, its even a little hard to shift driving down the road. It would pull a little bit when started in gear with clutch in. I searched and decided it was probably the clutch master or slave, so I replaced clutch master,slave,clutch,pressure plate , pilot bearing, rear main seal. I get the truck back and it still won't go into gear sitting still easily, but sometimes will go. Now it doesn't take off when you start it in gear, but still shifts hard. What would your next move be? I am thinking that I need to bleed the master cylinder as the guy on the videos does, with it upside down and peck it with screw driver. I asked the mechanic if he bled it and he said yeah, I put it in a vice. I also seen another post where the bracket that holds the clutch pedal had worn out not letting the pedal go in far enough. How common is this? Can I measure the clutch release through the rubber pullout on the side or inspection cover to see if I am getting enough release? BTW, it does not grind when trying to go into gears 1-5, reverse does sometimes unless you have the clutch in and put it in like 3rd first. It has always been like that. Truck is 1990 with 2.9, M5OD.

 

[dla]

Change your fluid

Seriously, change your transmission fluid.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

It could be a number of things from improper bleeding to a broken flange on the master....that happened to me. Also check the firewall for cracks as I've seen that too, it can allow enough movement to make it hard to shift. Bushing slop in the shifter mechanism could be. And I believe the trans uses atf, not gear lube, so as dla mentions the trans fluid could be a problem.

 

[deadbeat]

I should get to check it out today when I get home or tomorrow. Thanks for the other things to check for. I think first thing I am going to do is visually inspect the fire wall. What is the best way to check how much the clutch is being released? Through the little cover on the side?

 

[Transman304]

Seriously, change your transmission fluid.

+1
Dirty fluid wont let the syncros work properly.

Does outside tempature change have any effect on proble?.
When you changed all the parts was the clutch disc bad. Or any parts look to have failed?

 

[deadbeat]

The clutch I took out looked good, even though I had put 85k miles on it and however many were on it before I bought the truck. I'll change the fluid too as it has 85k miles on it since I drained and refilled it. The slave had 85k miles on it also and was not leaking, I thought the master had probably failed, but somebody had messed the clip up and I couldn't get the line loose so it had to be cut. I paid a mechanic to replace all the parts just because they all had lots of miles. I am pretty sure he didn't bleed it correctly because when I asked him he said he bench bled it in a vice. BTW, I put bushings in it a few years ago with the plugs and cap and it was filled with ATF. I'll check out what you guys have mentioned and get back with you tomorrow. Thanks for all the help.

 

[Transman304]

Yes please let us know what you find.

 

[deadbeat]

Finally got around to trying to remove master and bleed. Can't get the f'in line loose from slave. This has to be the biggest POS setup ever. Little plastic clip doesn't push in, it just wads up. Do they make a better clip I can put in there? I had a parts truck that this came off of easily. Not this one. If not, I am going to sell the f'in truck for scrap or part it out. Brand new front end, steering, tires, brakes. Im pissed. Worst setup ever.

 

[deadbeat]

Does anyone have any of the clips in good shape they will sell me? PM me if you do.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Sorry, no. Maybe try a hose clamp cut to fit? I've had problems with that style fitting too and used compressed air, wd-40, and lots of jiggling to clean out all the dirt that packs in.

 

[deadbeat]

I may try the hose clamp and cleaning some. It has only been driven about 15 miles with the new parts, just seems the plastic clip was really soft on the new line, unlike the factory on a few I have taken off. BTW, what do you push the hose clamp in with? The regular tool?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I've never tried a hose clamp, its just a suggestion. If the proper tool doesn't work, then two flat head screwdrivers will work.

sent while sitting on the throne

 

[deadbeat]

I've got to get a clip or use the hose clamp, I'll try it this weekend when I get a chance to look at it. I appreciate the help, wish there was a shop close that could fix it for me. I need to take it off though, the mechanic that put it on didn't route it right, I noticed it didn't hump over the frame as it should and is touching the exhaust pipe.

 

[Dads Toy]

Push it

Finally got around to trying to remove master and bleed. Can't get the f'in line loose from slave. This has to be the biggest POS setup ever. Little plastic clip doesn't push in, it just wads up. Do they make a better clip I can put in there? I had a parts truck that this came off of easily. Not this one. If not, I am going to sell the f'in truck for scrap or part it out. Brand new front end, steering, tires, brakes. Im pissed. Worst setup ever.

I found it helps if you push the line in and then use a small flat blade screw driver to push the clip in while you are pushing on the master line.

 

[Dads Toy]

I've tried that and made it worst

Seriously, change your transmission fluid.

I have about the same issue. Have a new master cylinder (bleed right) and a new slave cylinder. Its hard to get it into 1st/R. So I changed the fluid out to the ATF from the gear oil. Made it worst. Now its hard to get it into any gear and almost impossible to get it into 1st. I have to cram it into 2nd then 1st. I don't know how much more the trans can take it. So I feel your pain.