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Can't figure out what caused it


WeldingRanger

Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2014
Messages
9
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Manual
Hello everyone, new here and having an issue. Wasn't sure if this was the best place to post this or not.
Anyways about 2 hours ago I blew the hose on top of the radiator, but clueless as to why it happened. I had stopped at a friends house and left the truck on and idling. It was idling for probably about a half hour when the it over heated and the hose blew.
On Sunday though I had left the truck idling for at least an hour without a problem.
Absolutely clueless as to why it popped today. Also I just got the truck saturday
 
Overheated and hose blew?

Or

Hose blew and it overheated?

Do you know which one?
If not I would say hose just failed, it happens.

Upper rad hose is the most common to blow out, it runs the hottest and so expands and contracts the most.

I would replace the hose and get a new rad cap.
Rad caps should be changed with the coolant, every 2 to 3 years
 
Welcome to The Ranger Station!

Sometimes, old hoses just blow.
Replace it and keep an eye on the temp gage.

This would be a perfect opportunity to replace the thermostat also.
 
Chances are that the hose was just old, and it was it's time, if the bottom hose looks old like the top one I'd replace them both.
 
Overheated and hose blew?

Or

Hose blew and it overheated?

Do you know which one?
If not I would say hose just failed, it happens.

Upper rad hose is the most common to blow out, it runs the hottest and so expands and contracts the most.

I don't know which one it was, I'm gonna say it over heated and the hose blew though. I went and checked out the temp gauge after it blew and it was maxed at H.
When it happened I heard a loud pop and mass amounts of steam from under the hood
 
Welcome to The Ranger Station!

Sometimes, old hoses just blow.
Replace it and keep an eye on the temp gage.

This would be a perfect opportunity to replace the thermostat also.

Thanks for the welcome! Hoping to be a contributing member as I get more experience with these trucks.
T-stats are cheap right? College kid with no money here lol
 
T-stats don't cause overheating unless they fail closed, and since I assume yours was open at the time that is a very unlikely cause of the blown out hose.

T-stats fail open, that is part of their design parameters, they have a spring that holds the valve closed, as it is heated it loses strength and valve opens, if spring fails valve stays open.
Common sign of t-stat failure is that the engine(and heater inside) never warms up.


If it was on Hot very long there could be other issue now, but my guess would still be hose blew out from age unless there were other temperature symptoms leading up to this.
I would assume coolant started leaking out a crack in the hose, and then when enough coolant was lost engine started to heat up, and steam formed which increased pressure faster than rad cap could relieve it, the weak spot(the crack) then ripped open to release a cloud of steam.
 
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A t-stat should be around $5.00 give, or take a $ or so. It should have been able to sit a 1/2 hour without overheating.
 
Yes they are cheap, and even if you don't have much money, don't skimp on parts for your truck. If something needs fixed, fix it as soon as possible. These motors olny die when improperly maintained.
 
I'd replace the upper, lower radiator hose, and thermostat. But there still could be a reason it got that hot, like a bad fan clutch, clogged radiator, or worse case the head gasket is going away.
 
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A t-stat should be around $5.00 give, or take a $ or so. It should have been able to sit a 1/2 hour without overheating.

That's what I don't understand at all. On Sunday it sat for at least an hour with 0 problem at all, then I leave it for half an hour and it overheats on me
 
T-stats don't cause overheating unless they fail closed, and since I assume yours was open at the time that is a very unlikely cause of the blown out hose.

T-stats fail open, that is part of their design parameters, they have a spring that holds the valve closed, as it is heated it loses strength and valve opens, if spring fails valve stays open.
Common sign of t-stat failure is that the engine(and heater inside) never warms up.


If it was on Hot very long there could be other issue now, but my guess would still be hose blew out from age unless there were other temperature symptoms leading up to this.
I would assume coolant started leaking out a crack in the hose, and then when enough coolant was lost engine started to heat up, and steam formed which increased pressure faster than rad cap could relieve it, the weak spot(the crack) then ripped open to release a cloud of steam.

When I picked the truck up on saturday, we drove it about an hour home, then I drove it a couple places. The temp gauge barely moved above the C and topped out at the first line. So I assumed that either the gauge wasn't working or it was staying remarkably cool.
 
I'd replace the upper, lower radiator hose, and thermostat. But there still could be a reason it got that hot, like a bad fan clutch, clogged radiator, or worse case the head gasket is going away.

Best way to find out if the head gasket is going? After letting the truck cool down I was able to start it up and limp it for a bit, fired up and drove with no problem. Didn't sound any different either
 
Hello just checking in with an update, I went out got a new hose put it on filled it up with coolant and I've had it running for the past 15-20 minutes in my driveway temp gauge has creeped up about a 1/4 inch up past the first line. So unless its blowing up in my driveway right now (knocks on wood) I think its ok. Will check in tonight after school
 
When I picked the truck up on saturday, we drove it about an hour home, then I drove it a couple places. The temp gauge barely moved above the C and topped out at the first line. So I assumed that either the gauge wasn't working or it was staying remarkably cool.

If this is the case I would replace t-stat, it couldn't have caused the overheating since it was stuck open at the time, but it is stuck open.

make sure you get a 192 or 195degF t-stat

Generally the temp gauge should be between 1/3 and 1/2 after 5 to 8minutes of driving, the sooner the better.
"Cool" running engine costs you money in gas and engine won't last as long.
SAE, the oil testing people, have determined engine oil needs coolant(engine temp) to be above 140degF to start burning off water and gasoline contaminants in the oil, best temp is 190-220degF
 
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