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Cant be as simple as a leveling kit can it?


Redneck Youth

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2011
Messages
193
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
ok, so im looking to buy a 2" leveling kit for my truck, and im wondering if when i buy it on ebay, what else im gonna need in order to properly level it, all im buying are the little spacer deals, and info would be appreciated, i mean, do i need coil nets or anything else? i want to do it right. i was thinking maybe if anybody knows what i should look for, maybe that person could copy and paste a link here so i can see what i need.
 
And an alignment done.
 
When i did mine all I needed was the spacers. You should be able to get enough adjustment out of your stock bushings to align it.
 
instead of those spacers, do the "washer lift"....alot more durable than those cheap poly jobs...

and I didn't need the camber bushings in mine either....just an alignment....

l8r, John
 
The reason you dont want to do the washers or metal spacers is...
No Metal-On-Metal Contact - Daystar uses Polyurethane material in its Leveling Kits for a reason: It's an insulator. It absorbs the Noise, Vibration, and Harmonics (NVH) that come from the suspension and avoids transmitting them to the passenger compartment. All competitors use steel or aluminum in their Leveling Kits. If you were to take apart any factory suspension, you are going to find rubber, polyurethane, and often both in a typical suspension. These pieces are there for a reason; they absorb the NVH. Sure, steel makes a great hammer, but would you want to ride on it?

This is from daystars website.
 
The reason you dont want to do the washers or metal spacers is...
No Metal-On-Metal Contact - Daystar uses Polyurethane material in its Leveling Kits for a reason: It's an insulator. It absorbs the Noise, Vibration, and Harmonics (NVH) that come from the suspension and avoids transmitting them to the passenger compartment. All competitors use steel or aluminum in their Leveling Kits. If you were to take apart any factory suspension, you are going to find rubber, polyurethane, and often both in a typical suspension. These pieces are there for a reason; they absorb the NVH. Sure, steel makes a great hammer, but would you want to ride on it?

This is from daystars website.

If you do the washer lift it doesn't change that at all, you still use the factory bushing and everything. Metal on metal is only a bad thing if there is movement between the two pieces, since a washer lift raises the factory bushing and is bolted to the beams it is a non issue.
 
The washers are better. You can adjust it side-to-side. The sides are not created equal as the axle beams are different lengths. I would not consider anything added arbitrarily to the coils as a lift, just an adjustment. I think the Daystar stuff is basically garbage. Everything works best if the beams and steering arms are straight across. That's why they invented drop brackets and pitman arm drops. A 2" puck under the coil is going to raise the truck 3", hog about half of your stock downtravel and point the tires in toward each other, as well as tamper with the camber as the insides of the tires come closer, and caster as the radius arms pull the tires backwards. You can align it yourself, but you have to think of all three of those things.

If you take it to get it aligned, make sure they don't have a machine that holds the truck up under the front coils. It has to be held under the tires.
 

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