Canopy/Cap questions?

[Optimaldave]

Hi. I have a 1990 supercab 4x4 and just threw a canopy on her this weekend but I have a few questions as I have never run with a canopy before.

http://shellystruckcaps.com/capslids/jeraco/high_rise_f-250.gif

canopy is of that step up style, only ranger sized.

1. I have some canopy tape for between the canopy and the box rails to stop scratches/water leaks, but was wanting some input/peoples experiance on sticking the tape to the box rails instead of the bottom of the canopy as my box is already gouged to hell from dragging stuff out over the rails so it may be nice to cover it up even when the cap is off...

2. Do I actually need the proper canopy clamps or are 4" C-clamps fine?

3. Do people use 4 or 6 clamps? and would I need the small or large clamps?

4. I was planning on swapping in some Beltech 6400 shackles and coil lift so I can nicely fit some bigger tread under her, but am thinking that she may be a bit tippy with the cap on top as it is pretty tall as is... any experiance with this?

 

[hondaxr650]

I have 6 canopy clamps holding mine on but I would think c-clamps would work if you dont mind the dents they are gonna put in the bed rails from the underside. I also have a 4 in. lift with a HEAVY steel canopy on it and didn't notice any top-heavy feel at all.

 

[pillen140]

If you put it on the bed, the tape gets residue all over the box. the shackles wont matter, i have a 3" body lift and 2" suspension. 4 clamps will hold, either c clamps or the cap clamps. but i would only use 4 if it were for an aluminum cap. 6 is ideal for either one. and i would use 2-3" clamps, and put a thin piece of metal or wood where the clamp contacts the bed.

 

[Optimaldave]

If you put it on the bed, the tape gets residue all over the box. the shackles wont matter, i have a 3" body lift and 2" suspension. 4 clamps will hold, either c clamps or the cap clamps. but i would only use 4 if it were for an aluminum cap. 6 is ideal for either one. and i would use 2-3" clamps, and put a thin piece of metal or wood where the clamp contacts the bed.

Do you mean that as it rains the residue seeps out or just if I take the tape off?
My canopy is fiberglass and so maybe what I will do is get two canopy clamps to add in the middle and leave my c-clamps where they are in the four corners. The c-clamps are also nice as I use them for tiedown points too for delicate cargo to stop it from sliding around.

I have 6 canopy clamps holding mine on but I would think c-clamps would work if you dont mind the dents they are gonna put in the bed rails from the underside. I also have a 4 in. lift with a HEAVY steel canopy on it and didn't notice any top-heavy feel at all.

ok, will definately take that to mind and get some thing sheeting to run under the rails to stop denting...


One other thing too is that the rear window is pretty hazy, and after scrubbing with some VIM it is better, but still not great. So is it something you can usually polish up or do I need to treat it like a dull headlight with the various sandpapers and buff...

 

[pillen140]

the residue from the glue on the tape, that crap is hard to get off. and i would just use c clamps, cheaper and a hell of a lot easier to find.

 

[Grey_04]

4 c clamps will be enough to hold it on. the regular cap clamps can be found on evil bay for cheap if you want to use them later. i only have c clamps holding mine on and have had some heavy shit on top of mine including 16'long crap and never had any issues.I've had 15 2x12x16's treated up there at one time....here's a pic to prove i never babied my cap.

 

[Optimaldave]

the residue from the glue on the tape, that crap is hard to get off. and i would just use c clamps, cheaper and a hell of a lot easier to find.

Yeah, but do you mean that the residue would seep out due to rain or time, or it is only a problem if I take off the tape?

I would be planning on leaving it on even if I take the canopy off as it would give some protection to the sheeting that I drag out over the rails when I'm feeling lazy

Will probably end up with all canopy clamps one day as I plan on making a bed setup in the back which would require the low profile of a true canopy clamp but it is good to know that I don't need to worry about it until that day.

4 c clamps will be enough to hold it on. the regular cap clamps can be found on evil bay for cheap if you want to use them later. i only have c clamps holding mine on and have had some heavy shit on top of mine including 16'long crap and never had any issues.I've had 15 2x12x16's treated up there at one time....here's a pic to prove i never babied my cap.

Cheers

 

[pillen140]

just if you try to peel it off. i wouldnt count on it protecting anything, in the sunlight that foam tends to get real brittle and peel right off anyway. i have used 1/2" plumbing insulation before to make my toneau cover higher so i could close my tailgate. that worked well, and would protect the sides a little, it even has glue on the ends and it curves under the lip of the bed. i would just use it on the cap itself. you will be happy you did, if/when you take the cap off.

 

[Optimaldave]

just if you try to peel it off. i wouldnt count on it protecting anything, in the sunlight that foam tends to get real brittle and peel right off anyway. i have used 1/2" plumbing insulation before to make my toneau cover higher so i could close my tailgate. that worked well, and would protect the sides a little, it even has glue on the ends and it curves under the lip of the bed. i would just use it on the cap itself. you will be happy you did, if/when you take the cap off.

That is actually a good idea, i have had an issue with closing the door on the cap as it is slightly shorter than the bed (maybe by a half inch) so the door hits the tailgate before latching. This is not a huge issue as it has two gate style latches on either side which still reach but it means that the door leaks until i get some weather stripping to fill the void. However lifiting the cap by half inch may give me the clearance to close the door fully...

Will take all of the into consideration, it deteriorating quicly is a good point...

Cheers
Dave

 

[pillen140]

it wont lift it a half inch, its insulation for 1/2" copper pipes, it will lift it between 1/8-1/4". its cheap too. like $2 for 6ft.

 

[Optimaldave]

it wont lift it a half inch, its insulation for 1/2" copper pipes, it will lift it between 1/8-1/4". its cheap too. like $2 for 6ft.

Yeah, I suppose it does crush down pretty good
I guess I will have to look into how to slide it back in a way that I can still seal off where the front meets the box rail. Havent really spent any time with it though so I am sure there is an easy fix. Sunny days seem to be few and far between up here right now though...

Cheers
Dave

 

[Crane]

1. Never heard of anyone doing it that way, but I don't see why it wouldn't work
2. C-clamps would probably work just fine
3. I have 4, one at each corner
4. Although mine doesnt have a lift on it, the camper doesn't put enough weight on top to really feel it, at least I haven't

 

[AllanD]

If you feel around under the rail you'll find distinct retangular recesses
inder the underside of the bed rail where the sheet metal from the inner and outer skirt are in direct contact so you won't dent anything.

ust feel around down there and you'll find them THAt is where the clamps are supposed to go.

I prefer the aluminum cap clamps ecause you don't constantly need to slide
the handle back and forth to turn the screw a complete turn.

And you can buy cap clamps that have a tie-down loop on them.

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