Cannot get any error codes from the diagnostic connector

[arp]

I have a 94 Ranger with the 2.3 motor and manual box.

The problem I am having is that I have an engine service light on but I cannot get any error codes from the diagnostic connector either by using a Ford code reader or the voltmeter and jumper wire option. The code reader reads "000" and the needle on the analog voltmeter does not move.

Is there another method of getting the error codes?

I ranger has a fast idle problem which makes it difficult to drive and when you stop at traffic lights the revs pulse.

I have replaced the IAC and TPS and have cleaned the MAF with no changed to the idle condition but without any codes to work from I am struggling.

Has anyone got any suggestions?

 

[Stxrangerbumper]

fuel filter is old and maybe clog only solution to your bad driving¸

always happy to have these as service engine OBD1-obd2
and ford use eec-iv plugs
I had this poblem last week on my 93 2.3L 5 spd manual and I did not look so far away. its the fuel pressure very low

 

[Duane867]

Clean the electrical connectors to the MAF, TPS, and the IAC.
More times then not simple corrosion is the culprit to fast idle situations.
a clogged fuel filter would not generate a code on a 94 ( I don't believe so anyways ).
The condition it created would though. Meaning causing other things to work in such a way as to keep it running ( limp mode sort of thing ). Code flashers are pretty much worth their weight in crap if you ask me but thats what we are stuck with short of a fairly pricey dual scanning unit ( ODBI & ODBII dual scanners usually run well above $200 All it is is software and an adapter plug to boot and all it does is translate the flashes to readable code from memory.)

I would bet your check engine light stems from your fast idle condition alone. The fuel filter would have to be pretty damned clogged up to create such a low pressure to cause a code. Not that it couldn't happen or hasn't just that its not that common.
Sometimes a fast idle or certain conditions wont generate a code... don't know why but its happened to me as well. I would start by simply cleaning the electrical connectors with none-lubing ( BE SURE it is none-lubricating ) contact cleaner then fit them together and pull them apart a few times spraying them with contact cleaner each time. Give ample time to dry out... coat them real good with dielectric grease ( AND ONLY dielectric grease ).
See if that doesn't fix it 1st before throwing more money at it.
Check your throttle cable and linkage for pinch points in the cable and lack of lube in the linkage as well. Also look for any possible vacuum leaks such as the master cylinder and PCV hoses, accessory vacuum draws etc etc etc..... Check your breather element and make sure all your hoses are fitted properly and not sucking air.

 

[arp]

Thanks for the ideas

I changed the fuel filter and cleaned the connectors as suggested and it did resolve the fast idle when the engine is first started but did not resolve the fast idle during gear changes and the service light is still on.

I took the throttle body off and gave it a quick clean and noticed that the throttle plate is not a good fit to the throttle body there is a gap around the edge. Going back to the old carb days you wanted this to close fairly tightly.

Will the gap around the throttle plate cause the problem of fast idle during gear change?

 

[Duane867]

When you say a gap.. do you mean as in enabling air to be sucked in from the out side in instead of through the air induction ?

 

[steevn]

I read codes right from the check engine light. Just put a wire from the signal return pin to the seft test input connector, and do the test sitting in the truck. The check engine light flashes the codes.

 

[barrys]

This is a really good page on reading the codes with the "paper clip" method:
http://www.muscularmustangs.com/test1.php
I used that a few years ago and it worked great. Google around for a couple of different versions of the code explanations listing. It turned out my code was on in the first list I found but I later found it -- and obscure DPFE code related to the EGR subsystem.

Also, the Equis 3145 code reader is on sale at Amazon for 25.00 w/ shipping. You certainly don't need it since the paper clip/CEL flashing code method is giving the exact same information. But, I'm thinking of getting it just for the convenience.

Next is to figure out how to make an extension cable for the tester so I don't have to pay another 25.00 for that...

 

[Duane867]

Wire nuts and same color wires.

 

[barrys]

> Wire nuts and same color wires.
That's what I was thinking. But, what kind of little radio shack connectors do you use for the female connectors on the ecc and the receptacle on the handheld reader?

 

[Duane867]

What type of unit do you have ?

 

[barrys]

It's on it's way. It's the Equis 3145. When I get it, I'll make an extension out of the blade shaped "quick disconnect" crimp connectors from Radio Shack. 2.99 and some wire I have laying around and a 1/2 hour of relaxation in the garage.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Did you reset the computer when you changed the sensors. Start the test KOEO when it starts flashing codes disconnect the jumper, that erases the memory then disconnect the battery for 30 minutes. Then run it about 20 mins at medium speeds to set the new values and while it is still up to temp run the codes and see where it stands. You need to do this every time you change/clean a sensor.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The gap around the throttle plate is normal and the IAC controls the idle speed the plate is always shut at an idle that is why it is important to keep the TB clean around the butterfly. Reset the computer and run it a few warm up cycles it should settle down to normal.

 

[barrys]

Just to follow up on the cable extension for the code reader...
I got the Equus 3145 for 25.00 delivered on Amazon. Comes with a real book and even batteries. (I had read the online copy of the book already and it's great for a novice like me. Takes you through all the Ford generic test sequences.)
I made this cable:

Here's a closeup of the connectors: 1/4" Crimp 18 gauge "Quick Disconnect" connectors, 1.99 for 5 male and 5 female at "The Shack!" (liking their reimaging program):

I happened to have that colored wire marking tape around which just made it look purty... The blade connectors on the reader seem a little rickety, so I don't plan to remove the extension if I don't have to. Careful not to turn it on if the unshielded blade connectors are not connected to the truck or I think you'll short out the unit.

 

[arp]

Cannot get any error codes

Finally had enough with no error codes and high idle so I sent it to the local mechanic and he found the problem and I got the Ranger back today.

The PCM was broken which was the reason for no error codes and when it was replaced the error codes indicated a new DPFE sensor was needed and some of the hoses where shot.

Got out the door for a little over $500

Hopefully that will be it for another 100,000 miles.