Can you diagnose this transmission failure?

[harley-rider]

I need some guidance and suggestions. I know my truck needs some transmission work, I just cannot decide what it needs.

1993 Ranger
2.3l
5-spd

Here is the issue:
It is EXTREMELY difficult to put into 1st gear at a stop. I can get it into gear pretty easy right before the truck comes to a stop. Putting the gear into reverse is just as difficult. The other issue occurs when shifting up to 4th gear or downshifting into 4th gear and that is there is a grinding noise as it get pushed into gear.

I am confident I need to replace the transmission. Will the clutch, pressure plate, and synchronizer part of the transmission or are these external parts I need to replace? I have never replaced an entire transmission and I cannot afford the 2K plus to fix this old truck.

Thanks for any help you can provide!

 

[jhammel85]

I'd put money on the clutch. Not a big deal at all as they are a wear item..... You know, like a belt, alternator, Spark Plugs, etc.. so dont be so worried!

Those symptoms are 100% common when a clutch has about had it. Putting it gear while its moving makes it easier to switch it into gear. When its dead, they are usually very very hard to get into gear.

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

bad slave cylinder is common. your clutch is not being fully released, no doubt

 

[kimcrwbr1]

clutch, slave either or you might as well get the complete kit and change it all while you have it apart. It is not alot more expensive if you replace the flywheel and the master cyl also then you will not have to deal with it for some time. Also if you have engine oil in the bell housing it is a good time to do the rear main also and inspect the input seal and bering on the tranny.

 

[modelageek]

i agree with the bad slave also.......however i would drain and fill the tranny( there are 2 plugs on the side of the tranny a drain and fill plug) first to see if that helps.....especially if you don't know the history of the truck.( this is your first post so maybe you just go the truck) replace the fluid only with Mercon or Mercon V. takes a little over 3 quarts......check the fluid in the master also..

 

[harley-rider]

Thanks!

I have had the truck since it was new and we are at 321K miles. Engine was replaced 3 years ago and the transmission was completely rebuilt the 3.5 years ago.

I drained the fluid and refilled about 6 months ago. The fluid was silver in color and it was obvious there was some wear and tear.

This little truck spent 2 years towing and hauling while I remodeled the house.

SO it looks like: Clutch, Slave, Flywheel, and Master.. What about the pressure plate and synchronizer?

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

Thanks!

I have had the truck since it was new and we are at 321K miles. Engine was replaced 3 years ago and the transmission was completely rebuilt the 3.5 years ago.

I drained the fluid and refilled about 6 months ago. The fluid was silver in color and it was obvious there was some wear and tear.

This little truck spent 2 years towing and hauling while I remodeled the house.

SO it looks like: Clutch, Slave, Flywheel, and Master.. What about the pressure plate and synchronizer?

a master clutch kit will have a pressure plate in it. and yes definitely replace it.

to replace synchronizers the transmission will have to come apart, you'll need a bearing splitter and a press. and this is not likely to be your problem.. unless you've been driving like this for a while

 

[pcollins]

the master cylinder isnt normally part of a clutch job. they almost never go bad.

 

[Radio Flyer]

Just throwing this out there because it happened to mine...about 10 years ago.


The bronze bearing in the flywheel was seized. This would not allow the input shaft of the trans to stop spinning when the clutch was dis engaged (pressed). It was like trying to shift with out using the clutch. Found it when doing the clutch.

 

[scotts90ranger]

on these it's a roller bearing, but that's possible too...

 

[tommymonza]

My 94 with a 100 thousand light miles on it does the same exact thing. I just personally put a new clutch and pressure plate with flywheel and a new throwout bearing and the roller bearing in the back of the crank for the input shaft 10 thousand miles ago

Mine shifts fine in all gears it just is a struggle to get it into 1st after stopping at a light.

And when you are in stop and go traffic it almost feels like the truck still is kinda engaged in 1st gear even though the clutch is in.
I was thinking the throwout bearing but and than it might just be another chitty problem that these rangers have but now i suspect the cheap Autozone masterclutch assemblies input shaft bearing most likely is a piece of chit and is seizing rotating the input shaft even thought he clutch is pushed in.

 

[Duane867]

tommymonza,
I think your problem is a leaky/otherwise faulty slave cylinder.
they are almost more common problems then, clutch wear, syncros, and throw out bearings combined. Syncros usually don't go bad unless you are being speed racer and beating the Bejesus out of it OR if you have been driving it with a bad clutch or slave cylinder for a while. You can baby it and get by for a little while by leaving it in the gear you need when you park for the night. If you need to back out of your spot let it roll back a little and pop her in gear. Before you come to a stop be sure you are already in 1st. UTILIZE OPTIMAL SYNCRONIZER TO DRIVE GEAR SPEED sequences. From 1st to second is a round 20 - 25 mph. It usually slides like butter at that speed right in to gear. Same speed when down shifting. Basically give the syncronizers ample time to spinning the gears up to matched speed before engaging to avoid clashing. Be sure your already rolling back if you need reverse.
To check the slave cylinder...
1st look through the inspection area to see if the slave cylinder is wet. If it is then its leaking and needs replaced. If its not wet then try bleeding the slave assembly. If it works a treat after bleeding then returns to crap after a little while you knows its the slave cylinder not allowing the clutch to disengage fully.
You'll have to remove the trans entirely again though ( thanks Ford ! ) its an internal combo bearing/slave unit. Use a good none petroleum based grease on the shaft and bearing or you will likely end up with the same problem in 5K miles or less with bad syncros the next time around.
Its a good idea to do the clutch/ pressure plate, and change out the fluid for synthetic while your dong it as well. Mazda 5 speeds love the synthetic stuff. Makes them shift like glass.