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Can the computer be eliminated?


Javarod

Active Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2014
Messages
33
City
St Louis county, MO
Vehicle Year
1986
Transmission
Manual
Ok, i've an 86 2.0 Ranger which seems to have died. While i'm sure the current problem has nothing to do with the computer (cranks but won't turn over, pretty sure its getting fuel), considering what the ECM (that the right term?) on the right fender looks like, a failure in the future really wouldn't surprise me.

It seems that the computer system is more modern than the drivetrain, and i'm not required to pass emissions since the truck is so old. With that in mind, is it possible to just get rid of it should it become an issue?
 
Put some gas in the intake and crank it, if it is a fuel issue engine will start then die, if it is a spark issue it won't start.

How is the timing belt?

Fuel injection requires some type of controller, "computer" is often the term used, or ECU, PCM, EEC.
So if you want no computer then you will be using a carburetor, period.
There are after-market fuel injection "controllers" but you are trading one "computer" for another, lol, benefit in this is that the 3rd party computer can be adjusted to suit your needs.

Electronic ignition systems, don't all use controllers, some do.
If the distributor has a vacuum advance system it usually doesn't since the controller or module(ICM, ignition control module), was added to more accurately set spark timing, dwell and advance.

Yes, DuraSpark used vacuum advance and analog sensor instead of points, you can use a GM 4-pin HEI module with duraspark distributor for a very inexpensive and reliable ignition system. GM 4-pin HEI module runs about $25

There were two types of Ford TFI systems, TFI-IV(early, most were grey) which controlled dwell but not advance, and TFI-CCD(late, all were black) which relied on "computer" for dwell and advance, so both needed outside control for spark advance.

If you keep the computer, but changed the ignition system to non-computer assisted, then there is the problem of syncing the spark and fuel injectors, if a distributor is used then that "pulse" is what is used for the sync and starting the fuel injectors, which is why the TFI modules were connected to the computer to start with.
The computer doesn't know the engine is even rotating without this pulse, so no fuel flow would be started.
This pulse was from distributor sensor and then on distributorless engines a Crank position sensor was used to generate the pulse.
 
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Yeah, but you will need to Duraspark it. Check it out the tech section. ;)

Looking at the Haynes manual, looks like i'm mistaken, we already have a Duraspark and no computer. What i was looking at is... the idle speed controller? If so why's there a test plug? It and the ICM are looking rather pitted, hence the expectation that it'll die some time in the future, is this something that can still be replaced?
 
Put some gas in the intake and crank it, if it is a fuel issue engine will start then die, if it is a spark issue it won't start.

How is the timing belt?

Electronic ignition systems, don't all use controllers, some do.
If the distributor has a vacuum advance system it usually doesn't since the controller or module(ICM, ignition control module), was added to more accurately set spark timing, dwell and advance.

Yes, DuraSpark used vacuum advance and analog sensor instead of points, you can use a GM 4-pin HEI module with duraspark distributor for a very inexpensive and reliable ignition system. GM 4-pin HEI module runs about $25

Nods, "Cranks but won't turn over any more. Was hard to start, but would eventually start, and after revving it for five minutes or so would run but might stumble. This time it stumbled, surged and died, and was extremely hard to turn over. Fourth time it wouldn't turn over at all. Being an old carbureted engine, its easy to check for fuel to the filter, and i assume its impossible for a filter to be 100% clogged, so its prolly ignition. Seeing as how its already a Duraspark ignition apparently and the ICM looks seriously old, while i plan on testing the coil, i'm expecting the ICM to need a replacement. Considering the fun i had with the wiring from it to the distributor (http://a-javarod.blogspot.com/2014/07/truckin.html) i'm expecting its quite dead. Should i switch the the GM or just replace with the standard Ford module?"

"As to the timing belt, no idea, do the Lima's use a belt, or a chain, or something else? With how old this thing is, and the redneck repairs to it, that's just something else that'll need replacement. Vapor canister is broken and disconnected, coolant jug has no stopper, and the oil cap isn't hooked to any kind of breather filter. The list just goes on and on. There is a reason i named the truck the Rickety Rocket. :icon_twisted:"
 
Switch to the GM 4 pin
Google: duraspark ii GM 4 pin
Wiring diagram is everywhere, lol

Yes, Limas use timing belt, it is also a non-interference engine so if belt slips or breaks the valves and pistons shouldn't collide
 
The 2.0 should have carb. Rebuild it, duraspark it, if it isn't already, and go. It will probably make it more reliable.
 
Switch to the GM 4 pin
Google: duraspark ii GM 4 pin
Wiring diagram is everywhere, lol

Yes, Limas use timing belt, it is also a non-interference engine so if belt slips or breaks the valves and pistons shouldn't collide

Yep, done got me one bookmarked (http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1311-convert-a-ford-or-chrysler-ignition-to-gm-hei/ Will the coil work wired like that?). Only thing i'm a touch unsure on is the ignition switch connector which seems to have at least four wires, but i take it i only need two of them? Distributor connector is the easy one, there seems to be some debate on what to do with the black wire, ignore or ground it, i finger grounding it is a good idea.

We'll put it on the fix list then. Once i get it running again, i need the timing checked, with the redneck work on this thing, i wouldn't be surprised to find that someone found a way to change it to compensate for the wiring problems.
 
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Just to put it out there, "Cranks but won't turn over" means the engine is locked up and won't spin, and just doesn't make any sense, even though I knew what you meant... I do troubleshooting at work sometimes and wording is helpful... I'm not trying to offend, I know it's probably a regional thing as I've heard that before...
 
Sorting out the truck

Just to put it out there, "Cranks but won't turn over" means the engine is locked up and won't spin, and just doesn't make any sense, even though I knew what you meant... I do troubleshooting at work sometimes and wording is helpful... I'm not trying to offend, I know it's probably a regional thing as I've heard that before...

Thanks. Yeah, cranks but won't fire is prolly more accurate for what its doing. I'm hoping its the ignition, i know the coil primaries tested really low, not 0, but not much above either, 'bout half spec if that. When i got it, the wires from the ICM to the distributor had lots of bare spots and was resting on the steering shaft, which somehow i don't think was good. Its been running rough even after fixing that and really low on power... not that this motor has much to start with (its embarrassing that our Cobalt has a bigger motor with something like twice the power).
 

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