All alternators have internal diodes so yes, there are diodes
1988 BII should be running a Gen 2 or 3 alternator with internal voltage regulator
And you should have a voltage gauge in the dash not an AMP meter
Charging Systems are very easy to test
Key off
Test battery voltage, should be 12.3v to 12.8v, this is to get Baseline voltage of the system that you will need for next tests
(Batteries under 12.3volts are either drained or bad, bad battery will go dead on its own, even unhooked)
On the back of the alternator is the B+ terminal, stud and nut terminal
Put volt meter black probe in alternators metal case(all test need to be done with black probe on the case)
Red probe on B+, with its wire still attached, should see Battery Voltage(tested above), EXACTLY, no drop
If no volts there is a blown Fusible link, if less volts a corroded connection
(if less volts move black probe to battery negative, if higher volts then you have a bad Battery negative cable, clean or replace)
Pull out the 3 wire plug on the back of alternator
Test yellow wire, should have battery voltage
If not then different fusible link is blown, if less volts then corroded connection
Test Green wire, should be 0 volts
Turn key on, engine off
Re-test green wire, should have Battery volts, can be 0.2 less since key is on
This green wire is the ON/OFF switch for the alternator, so important, its 12v comes from ignition switch, no fuses, it passes thru Battery Light(Charge light), so no battery light with key on means no 12v on that green wire
Make sure the White jumper wire is plugged in to alternator on its single spade terminal, and not frayed at either end
If these 3 wires test as OK, and white wire looks OK, then the Trucks Charging system is OK
Start engine
Test battery voltage, 14.1v to 14.8v is expected just after startup
If under 13volts then alternator is bad, doesn't matter if its new, or your 3rd new alternator, its bad
Because if wires are good and alternator is not charging then its bad, not a maybe, or could be something else, its bad