Can anyone figure this problem out

[a31ford]

OK, I've been thinking about this one.

I'm pretty good at diagnostics, and will take a hard stab at this one.

First off lets get some stuff ready.

you are going to need the following:
some form of test light, and two long chunks of wire. 14 or 16 ga both can be the same color. as long as you mark one with tape so you can tell a from b.

connect one to B+ on the Battery, and the other to Neg.

it would help if the ends you are using where "tined" (solder so the wire is a solid wire and not a bunch of strands at the ends (you can use solid wire, but is a PITA to move around, but what ever you have kicking around will do).

the test lamp can be a 1156 or a #157, what ever, even a bought test lamp with a wire and a probe (this would be best, but again, what ever you have kicking around.)

one short "jumper wire" (the type with the alligator clips on each end), would be nice to have, but again, what ever you have around.


OK, try this, on the DR side inside fender, near the coil, there are a hand full of electrical connectors, find the one that goes to the tail lights, and disconnect the two sides (open the connector).

We are going to "systematically" trace your lighting.

Notice that black is ground, brown is "running lamps", lite green/orange tracer, is left turn, and orange/lite blue tracer, is right turn ?

Use your wires to test these color wires in that connector and make sure there is NOT a harness short.

Heck you could most likely go right to the multfunction switch and test there since we now know the colors of the wires.

WARNING !! get TWO fuse pigtails, and inser one in each of your test wires, THAT WAY, if something does go wrong while testing, the fuse will pop and NOT burn a wire under the dash.......

here is the other page, only for reference, and if you need it for something else... later on....

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

OK, I've been thinking about this one.

I'm pretty good at diagnostics, and will take a hard stab at this one.

First off lets get some stuff ready.

you are going to need the following:
some form of test light, and two long chunks of wire. 14 or 16 ga both can be the same color. as long as you mark one with tape so you can tell a from b.

connect one to B+ on the Battery, and the other to Neg.

it would help if the ends you are using where "tined" (solder so the wire is a solid wire and not a bunch of strands at the ends (you can use solid wire, but is a PITA to move around, but what ever you have kicking around will do).

the test lamp can be a 1156 or a #157, what ever, even a bought test lamp with a wire and a probe (this would be best, but again, what ever you have kicking around.)

one short "jumper wire" (the type with the alligator clips on each end), would be nice to have, but again, what ever you have around.


OK, try this, on the DR side inside fender, near the coil, there are a hand full of electrical connectors, find the one that goes to the tail lights, and disconnect the two sides (open the connector).

We are going to "systematically" trace your lighting.

Notice that black is ground, brown is "running lamps", lite green/orange tracer, is left turn, and orange/lite blue tracer, is right turn ?

Use your wires to test these color wires in that connector and make sure there is NOT a harness short.

Heck you could most likely go right to the multifunction switch and test there since we now know the colors of the wires.

WARNING !! get TWO fuse pigtails, and insert one in each of your test wires, THAT WAY, if something does go wrong while testing, the fuse will pop and NOT burn a wire under the dash.......

here is the other page, only for reference, and if you need it for something else... later on....

This looks really promising if I, and probably the OP, knew how electricity works. Personally, I want more.....
Exactly how do I use these test instruments and what am I looking for?
Do I insert the home-made black test lead into a plug?
I pulled the plug apart, which half do I attach the wires?
How do I use the test light? Would I use it inline with the black wire? the other wire?
What are the alligator clips for?

I know this sounds like very basic stuff to you, but the people asking questions may not have the experience/basic knowledge to turn your advice into practical use.
I honestly think if this was expanded that it would make a great tech article.
I'd be happy to ask more questions like the above..... but in another thread if you wanted/needed a collaborator.

Richard

 

[Scrambler82]

Add some ground wires.
Determine which wire is the ground for each light and add a jumper wire to the body of frame.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

^^^ For quick and [depending on how you attach the wires] short term, I think this would fix your problems.

Richard

 

[greaseyfingers]

Add some ground wires.
Determine which wire is the ground for each light and add a jumper wire to the body of frame.

When it gets warmer outside, I'll try and see if that idea works..

 

[greaseyfingers]

Add some ground wires.
Determine which wire is the ground for each light and add a jumper wire to the body of frame.

If you think running new jumper wire grounds, as you suggested, will solve these problems, that were mentioned..

Would you know where the original, factory turn signal and brake light electrical grounds would be located, that could be checked, if that would solve the problem, before running new jumper wire grounds..

When you depress the brake pedal, while the ignition switch is off, the rear brake lights illuminate and work fine..

If you turn on the right turn signal switch, while the brake pedal is depressed, and the ignition switch is off..

The right front turn signal light and rear brakes lights will light up and stay on, as long as the brake pedal is held down..

Now, if you put the heater blower motor switch on high, while the brake pedal is still being depressed, the rear brake lights and right front turn signal will blink on and off, as the blower motor is starting and stopping with each flashing click that you can hear..

 

[RangerSVT]

It definitely sounds like a ground issue, and its in the dash harness. Check the harness along the steering column for breaks or open wires. Follow the harness to the inside firewall plug...

SVT

 

[greaseyfingers]

It definitely sounds like a ground issue, and its in the dash harness. Check the harness along the steering column for breaks or open wires. Follow the harness to the inside firewall plug...

SVT

Can a brake light switch, cause these kind of problems..

Does the brake light switch complete a ground wire circuit, or is it a hot wire circuit, and where do these wires to and from..

What's the best way to check, or test the brake light switch..

 

[RangerSVT]

The brake light switch is just a normally closed 2 wire switch, test with an ohm meter. Just like the brake lights, the brake light switch has a hot wire that goes in, and when the switch is depressed, send power to the lights. If there is a short, it could affect operation. I'd have to look at the schematics, but I believe the brake light switch does go through the multifunction switch...

SVT

 

[Scrambler82]

I do not know where the ground wire actually connects to ground for the tail lighting, need a schematics, but it was suggested it is at the plate light location and I think it is only grounded in one or two locations.

The brake light sw is a Normally Open Switch , not Normally Closed. If you check it with no wires attached it will show an open circuit.

The brake light wires go through the Multifunction Switch or at least in my '03, my '98 and my '95 they did and that may be the problem. My '95 had a weird problem with the light and it was the switch; try another one and see what happens.

The problem with all of the electrical components coming on with the brakes and the directional or how ever it happened points towards a bad ground; where is it, sorry can't say.
Start disconnecting the components that come on together, maybe pull the fuses, plug the fuses in one at a time and see if the components works without the others.

I am not an automotive electrican or even close but that is how I would attempt to trace down the problem.

 

[greaseyfingers]

Missing grounds and or bad grounds will cause these problems, if you changed the turn signal switch that eliminates that...
If you have factory pigtail for the trailer lights, corrosion gets in the contacts causing cross connects even though there's a cap on it.

I just tried running a ground wire from the negative terminal post on my 90 Ranger's battery to the ground wire on my rear turn signal light's socket, on the right side..

After doing so, the left rear turn signal light is still continuing to flash, when I turn on my 90 Ranger's right side turn signal switch..

So, I'm still having the same problem as before adding the new ground wire, as mentioned..

The left side rear turn signal works, as it should, when I turn on the left side turn signal switch on my 90 Ranger..

I didn't think I would need to run a ground wire to the left side, as that side is working fine..

Is that a correct assumption..

I've already tried using a good working turn signal switch from a 89 Ranger in my 90 Ranger to see if that would solve the rear turn signal light problems I'm having in my 90Ranger, but it didn't help any..

The rear right side turn signal problem is still the same, as before, which is that both rear turn signals flash when the right turn signal switch is used..

Does anyone have a good link for a 87 to 90 Ranger's Ignition Switch Replacement with all the steps used for installing it..

How long does it usuallly take to do this, and do you need to lower the steering column and take out the cylinder lock, also, to disconnect the rod that goes from there into the ignition switch, during the installation of a new ignition switch..

A link that I read from, http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...linder.870128/, (Says) ~ Some of the symptoms of ignition switch problems are things that don’t work or are intermittent like radio, turn signals, wipers or heater.

(It also said) ~ There was a FREE recall on Ford ignition switches. They overheat and sometimes catch fire. That burns up the steering column and sometimes the car interior. Since this is very old information, you may not be able to get the switch replaced for free anymore. The auto parts stores sell the switches for $13-$15.

Being I've tried about everything else to try and get my 90 Ranger's turn signals working correctly, again..

Does anyone else think that, maybe, my 90 Ranger's ignition switch could be causing my turn signal problems, as discussed

 

[greaseyfingers]

I do not know where the ground wire actually connects to ground for the tail lighting, need a schematics, but it was suggested it is at the plate light location and I think it is only grounded in one or two locations.

The brake light sw is a Normally Open Switch , not Normally Closed. If you check it with no wires attached it will show an open circuit.

The brake light wires go through the Multifunction Switch or at least in my '03, my '98 and my '95 they did and that may be the problem. My '95 had a weird problem with the light and it was the switch; try another one and see what happens.

The problem with all of the electrical components coming on with the brakes and the directional or how ever it happened points towards a bad ground; where is it, sorry can't say.
Start disconnecting the components that come on together, maybe pull the fuses, plug the fuses in one at a time and see if the components works without the others.

I am not an automotive electrican or even close but that is how I would attempt to trace down the problem.

When I pulled out the front left and right turn signals bulb sockets from the front turn signal lense assembly..

I just noticed that with the ignition key on, when I turn on the right turn signal switch for the right side, both elements in that bulb will flash..

Then, when I turn on the the turn signal switch for the right side, both the elements in that bulb will flash..

What would be causing this to happen, as explained..

Could this, some how, be related to causing both the rear turn signals to shart flashing when the turn signal switch for the right side is turned on..