Camshaft synchroizer

[1jasonmoody1]

After I have found top dead center on my motor how do I set the camshaft synchronizer before putting it in

 

[RonD]

There are TWO TDCs on all 4-stroke engines
You want #1 TDC at the top of it's compression stroke

There is a tool that's installed on the top of synchronizer

But there is a way to do it without the tool seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-4-0l-camshaft-synchronizer/

 

[rhekman]

After I have found top dead center on my motor how do I set the camshaft synchronizer before putting it in

The procedure is covered reasonably well in the Haynes manual. Unfortunately mine is currently in a box in the attic.

The tech article Ron linked covers the basic procedure. Note however most of the pictures in that article are of the 94/95 style all metal cam synchronizer with the viewing window. The last two pictures of the sensor only (top hat style) are from later year 4.0L, as well as 3.0L V6 motors.

The cam synchro sensor is a basic Hall effect unit that completes a circuit when its magnetic pickup is close to the rotating vane driven by the synchro gear/oil pump drive.

We want the sensor to trigger a set number of degrees after TDC so the ECU knows when the cam is on the compression or exhaust stroke of a given cylinder.

Adding 34mm of tape to the crank pulley sets the appropriate engine degrees.

Roughly set the camshaft synchronizer so the vane is lined up with the start of the pickup (that's what the alignment tool locks in when using the plastic cap style sensor).

Then you can insert the synchro drive into the block. I THINK (sorry it's been a couple years since I did mine) you can start the the drive just past the 3 o'clock position (crankshaft snout at 12 o'clock, flywheel flange six o'clock when viewed from above the block) and it will rotate itself as the drive gear meshes with the cam. It should end up between 5 and 6 o'clock when fully seated.

You can guarantee the sensor is in exactly the right spot by hooking up a battery to the two outside terminals of the sensor, then checking for a change in voltage on the center terminal. It should go from zero to battery voltage just as you rotate the crank past the end of the tape on the crank pulley. You can fine tune the trigger point by rotating the synchro body (just like an old school distributor). If it's way off, then you have to remove the synchro, clock it differently, and re-insert so it meshes with the a different set of teeth on the camshaft.

Here's a pic from when I did mine:

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I did the tape length trick as per tech article and it worked fine.