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2.3L ('83-'97) Camshaft Question


PetroleumJunkie412

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So, I have the front end of the 1996 2.3 torn apart for a timing belt, and had a question about cams.

Found this while searching for cam info:



The hot setup is to use a 95+ Rocker Arm (1.86" ratio) with a 89-94 Roller Cam (0.2381" lobe lift). This will give you a valve lift of 0.443" which is pretty dam hot! If you have an 89-94 2.3L, you will have to widen the valve stem ends (0.2750") of the 95+ rockers to fit the 0.343" valve stems.

Bottom View: end needs to be widened for the wider valve stems of the 89-94 engines.

If you have a 95+ (94+ in Calif) 2.3L engine, it may not be just as easy to replace your cam with a 89-94 roller cam as the 95+ cam has a position sensor. Maybe someone with a picture of the 95+ cam can send one in so we can check the differences?

I had a chance to hit the wreckers and picked up a set of eight 1997 rockers for $16! I've just measured the rockers and they have a clearance of 0.010" (measured 0.285") over the valve stem (0.275"). It looks like you need to widen them to 0.343" to fit the 94 and earlier engines. 0.343" - 0.285" = 0.058" overall which is 0.029" each side.

I did some calculations and figured that changing to the higher ratio rockers will increase the duration of the intake and exhaust by 4 degree overall (2 degrees for the rise and 2 for the fall). The overlap will decrease proportionally by 4 degrees. Putting the new cam specs into DynoSim (engine simulator), it comes out to about 12 hp increase at 4500 rpm and 10 ftlb of torque. Can't wait to find the time to swap in the higher ratio rockers!"




Source: https://www.route66hotrodhigh.com/2300Cams.html





So, my question was, would I be able to use a 89-94 camshaft with the 1996 engine? They never clarified with the CPS issue...
 
Last edited:
Cam sensor is for spark and sequential injector timing so it shouldn't matter, if crank/cam/aux gears are timed correctly
 
Cam sensor is for spark and sequential injector timing so it shouldn't matter, if crank/cam/aux gears are timed correctly
No idea if it will trigger a fault code?

Only reason I ask is I have an opportunity on an earlier cam for $30, new in box.
 
No, no fault code

As far as I know the Lima engines had the same key way placement on crank, aux and cam shafts for the timing gears from 1974 to 2001, so same valve crank timing
 
I would NOT attempt to modify the followers.
I would try putting the older cam in a 1998+ head, the flow better anyway.
 
Head is a 1996. So followers should work? I think...
 
In '92 the timing belt changed from square tooth to round tooth which is the change in the pulleys all around. The aux and cam pulley are the same and should bolt on to the other cam.

Take what you find on the hotrodhigh site with a grain of salt, they also recommend switching 1&4 and 2&3 plug wires on the drivers side coil which won't do jack since it's the same output... I had a bit of some adult beverages tonight so I'm not going to search but I think someone did measurements and their math didn't work out on the valvetrain swaperoo, but I could be wrong...
 
Appreciate you checking... I pulled the trigger on the new cam ($30), so worst case, we'll all find out if it works or not. If it does work, $30 isn't too bad for some extra lift.

Now if I could only find an adjustable cam gear that cheap.....
 
yeah, if you can find parts for these things anymore some are CHEAP and others are QUITE THE OPPOSITE :)

If it works that would be cool. Once I get a shop I'm looking forward to working more on runability and oil leaks on my '90 so I can get back to performance and modifications... I'm over working on stuff in the driveway, having to put everything away and close hoods nightly when in the middle of stuff sucks...
 
Just an opinion question for you: is it worth tossing a set of dual stack valve springs and anti pump up lifters in while I'm in there?

Guessing the originals are still in there with 232k mi on them.

Found out the other night that two of the spark plugs had been in there since it was built. ;brownbag;
 
"Bee Hive" springs are more stable than stockers, increased pressure and more than enough for street use - and ZERO machining!
Quality HLA (Hydraulic Lash Adjusters) wouldn't be a bad idea - soak them in STP Engine treatment overnight before installing.
 

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