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bypassing heater core on 96 4cyl Ranger


linus9

New Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2010
Messages
3
Vehicle Year
96
Transmission
Manual
Hi there,

I apologize for the intrusion but I'm wondering if someone might be able to help me.

I acquired a 96 4 cylinder Ranger from a family member not too long ago with a bad heater core. A mechanic had disconnected the hoses for her but I'd prefer not to drive this truck air-cooled.

I just installed an oil cooler and would like to reroute the cooling system/hvac hoses to bypass the heater core (until I get around to replacing it).

I'm hoping someone can tell me where the two hoses (the one on the passenger side and the one on the driver side) from the heater core go. The one closer to the driver side has apparently been removed and the one on the passenger side has been disconnected at the other end.

I checked out the tech library and it looks like replacing the heater core on this case might not be the eight+ hour disaster it can be on other cars. Does anyone know if that article applies to this particular vehicle too?

Thanks,

Linus
 
Both heater hoses come from the pass. side. Just loop them together and be done with it.
 
Both heater hoses come from the pass. side. Just loop them together and be done with it.

Right. I probably should've been clearer about the problem I'm having.

Currently only one of the two hoses that connect to the heater core is actually connected to the heater core (the one closer to the passenger side fender) and that hose is only attached to the heater core (in other words it goes nowhere in particular; it's just resting on the side of engine compartment and not attached to any other fitting). The other hose that would normally attach to the heater core connection closer to the center of the truck is missing.

So I'm wondering two things:

1) where the hose on the heater core closest to the passenger side front fender leads to

2) where the missing hose that should be attached to the heater core connection closest to the middle of the truck leads to

Then I'll be able to bypass the core for now. I don't have a shop manual yet for this truck and so far I've been unable to find a diagram for the cooling/hvac system online.
 
Last edited:
95 + you have to pull the dash to replace the heater core. ford alocates about 5 hours. on my truck one heater hose comes off the thermostat housing and goes to the heater core stub closer to the drivers side. the other hose goes from the stub closer to the passenger side and goes to the connecter at the bottom of the waterpump where the lower rad hose is.
 
95 + you have to pull the dash to replace the heater core. ford alocates about 5 hours. on my truck one heater hose comes off the thermostat housing and goes to the heater core stub closer to the drivers side. the other hose goes from the stub closer to the passenger side and goes to the connecter at the bottom of the waterpump where the lower rad hose is.

great, thanks. It looks like the bypass had already been done (which explains the missing hose: it had been moved to between the thermostat and water pump).
 
hey man..when i bought my 91 ranger 2.3..it had a bad heater core..so the guy b4 me thought it would be okay to just bypass it and plug it up with a few spark plugs...yeah..so one day about 3 weeks ago i started my truck up as normal to warm it up..the heater didnt work that great but it was enough to defrost my windows...so i walk back out to the truck to get in and when i opoen the door....smoke poured out from the cab...i swear it looked like a bunch of dope heads had been smoking for hours in there...ALSO..when i first bought the truck..even in the dead heat of a texas summer it would never ever ever really warm up according to the guage..anywas...back to 3 weeks ago...went to the local autozone/advance...thay said most likely it was the heater core...so i said oh yay..i get to spend about 5 hours taking my dash off...i said what the h e l l and bought one anywas...cost me like 30 bucks for a new core..so i get home im freezing my balz off lookin for all the screws and nuts and bolts to take my dash off..well just so happens i have the repair manual...so i get it out to look and make sure of what i have to do..turns out i didnt have to take my dash off...and i didnt have to spend 5 hours out there freezing to replace it...it only took me about 45 minutes...it was real easy to replace...afew bolts on this plastic cover piece right under the glove box and i was to the core...disconnected the hoses...dropped it out slid the new one up and in...put new hoses on and was done....make sure if yours may happen to be as easy to check your coolant level after thw change..as mine ate up a bit of fluid...and now my truck runs normal temps aswell...sits right btween the N and O where it says normal...it used to never come off the cold line..good luck man!!hope u can get it fixed
 

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