burnt valve

[86ranger4x4owner]

Yes, and if you have a Haynes manual it actually shows the sequence. If you don't have one you simply start in the middle of the head and work out towards the ends cris-crossing from the driver side to passenger side for each bolt and end to end where you go front right, back left, front left, back right...

Haynes has a diagram in the 2.3 section but it is not obviously placed.

I have a Haynes Manuel. I was thinking bout porting and polishing the head. Can I also do the intake if so what intake part needs to be ported and polished? I have the intake manifold, intake bend , and throttle body.

 

[Mark_88]

If you port the head, just make sure the intake is the same diameter. There is, apparently, plenty that can be taken from the head on both the intake and exhaust sides.

Your truck is fuel injected so you're not worrying about fuel pooling as much as someone with a carb because the fuel is directly into the cylinders. What you need to look for is air flow and typically would want to ensure that there are no ridges where the air can slow down or even cause currents.

I remember finding a few pages on the internet about head porting and when I did mine I simply rounded out the head ports and tried to smooth out any rough spots.

Maybe someone with more understanding of the whole process can chime in here, but I'd also have a search on the web for people that have done this for improved performance specifically on a FI application.

 

[RonD]

There is a bit of horse power gain with porting but a lot of work as well.

Usually you only need to do the intake ports but most do the exhaust as well.

You take a new intake gasket, place it on the intake and cut away/grind any metal within 1mm of the gasket's seal for each port, the 1mm is for when gasket is compressed and expands.
Then take the same gasket and put it on the head, repeat process.
Now when the head and intake are bolted together each port lines up exactly.

Polishing is mostly done in the head with valve removed, you will see casting ridges and rough surfaces inside the port passage way, these are polished to give smoother flow.
Most newer intakes are already pretty smooth inside, but up to you.

You can do the same on the exhaust side but I would get headers and then match to those.
The thing about the exhaust side is that "rough" flow is really not a issue, like it can be on the intake side.


There is good info on mods to the 2.3l on this page
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/4cylinders.html

 

[86ranger4x4owner]

I got head in shop now. Was wondering what's best way to clean top of block before I put head back on. The head bolt thread holes are filled with gunk but I don't want that falling in coolant or oil jackets any ideas?

 

[adsm08]

Use a fresh razor and brake clean to clean the block off. Then get a can of compressed air and shoot out the bolt holes. Dont worry so much about debris getting in the oil and coolant passages. Just make sure you change the oil.

Postin' from teh Galaxy

 

[Mark_88]

You could also use a turkey baster (or an old anti-freeze tester) to draw out excess oil from the bolt holes after cleaning it...or a shop vac...even just dipping a dry rag in the hole will help pull some of the oil out of the bolt holes...

 

[86ranger4x4owner]

The guy at machine shop said it had a bent valve. I was wondering when putting head back on does it matter which turn the can is on as long as its lines up with the pointer. Like the crankshaft has two turns for tdc so does csm have two turns to or just line it up? Also can I reuse my head bolts?

 

[Mark_88]

The cam just needs to be pointed to the marker for timing alignment...it is one revolution per cycle...the crank needs to be turned so that the #1 piston is Top Dead Center (TDC) because it actually rotates twice per cycle (meaning the piston tops out twice per firing cycle).

To position it at TDC, once the head is on, leave the #1 plug out and put your thumb over the hole while turning the crankshaft...you will feel the compression stroke on your thumb...then line up the mark on the crankshaft pulley with the arrow on the distributor gear...the distributor gear also has one rotation per cycle...but to make sure the timing is set right, pull off the distributor cap and make sure the rotor points to the #1 piston position on the distributor.

You can use your head bolts as long as they are the old style...the newer ones I think are marked with a TTY...meaning torque to yield...

 

[86ranger4x4owner]

The cam just needs to be pointed to the marker for timing alignment...it is one revolution per cycle...the crank needs to be turned so that the #1 piston is Top Dead Center (TDC) because it actually rotates twice per cycle (meaning the piston tops out twice per firing cycle).

To position it at TDC, once the head is on, leave the #1 plug out and put your thumb over the hole while turning the crankshaft...you will feel the compression stroke on your thumb...then line up the mark on the crankshaft pulley with the arrow on the distributor gear...the distributor gear also has one rotation per cycle...but to make sure the timing is set right, pull off the distributor cap and make sure the rotor points to the #1 piston position on the distributor.

You can use your head bolts as long as they are the old style...the newer ones I think are marked with a TTY...meaning torque to yield...

I set it at tdc before I took head off on compression stroke just wanted to be sure about cam.

 

[86ranger4x4owner]

OK am about to put head back on. I don't think the head bolts are torque to yield they don't say it. but they have like s rubber seal on them near the head of the bolt was wondering do I need another seal to put on them? Aldo what's best way to clean bolts?

 

[adsm08]

OK am about to put head back on. I don't think the head bolts are torque to yield they don't say it. but they have like s rubber seal on them near the head of the bolt was wondering do I need another seal to put on them? Aldo what's best way to clean bolts?

NEVER reuse head bolts. They are all TTY.

 

[86ranger4x4owner]

NEVER reuse head bolts. They are all TTY.

They don't say tty on top and look like a standard bolt. So I need to buy new ones? Or how to tell if there tty?

 

[adsm08]

Just because a bolt doesn't have TTY printed on it and looks like a normal bolt doesn't mean it isn't TTY. Ever see a 6.0 head bolt? It looks like a big grade 8 with a shoulder.

The best way to tell if a bolt is TTY is to look at the torquing procedure. If it has you torque it down and then spin it another so many degrees or to a second stage torque, it is TTY and can't be reused.

It has been a very long time since Ford has used non-TTY head bolts. You may try to reuse them, but if you are doing a head gasket again in a week I get to say "I told you so".

 

[Mark_88]

The older bolts are not tty...I had this explained to me about ten years ago by someone on here when I did my first head...not sure when they started using the tty bolts but it was after 1988...so if the bolts came from your original motor (1988 or older) then they should not be tty...

Not sure if they are actually stamped with tty though...

The older style heads needed two rounds of torque so it would be impossible to use a tty bolt in that situation (or, at least, not recommended)...if you look at the newer head torque specs it shows only one round and the torque is actually much lower than the 90 ft/lbs on the older heads...something like 50 ft/lbs...

EDIT: I put my last head on using the same bolts I just used to put my replacment head on...the last head lasted over 50,000 Km and needed replacing because I was dumb enough to think a bit less coolant in the engine wouldn't hurt it...

I replaced the current head beginning of February and it is running fine (well, compared to what it was like prior to the head change)...

I know all the NEW bolts are tty and they should never be used again...

EDIT II:

I just found this because now I'm curious...but the second post down shows how to tell TTY from standard bolts...

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/49-other-cars/211595-head-bolts-studs-torque-yield-straight-talk.html

 

[86ranger4x4owner]

I've almost got it all back together. But I need help with two ground wires. One is a black ground wire and the other is a ground strap that runs from the windshield wiper motor. I can't find where these two connect two. I think they connect to the intake somewhere. Could someone take a picture of theirs? I can't move any farther until I connect them. They are on driver side back of head kinda. Please help.