• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Building steering setup? (like stone crusher)


Hagan

08/2013 OTOTM Winner
V8 Engine Swap
OTOTM Winner
Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Jan 3, 2009
Messages
1,079
City
Salem, OR
Vehicle Year
1986
Transmission
Manual
I'm thinking about building my own steering setup. $200 for a drop pitman arm is too much and I will STILL have the stock steering setup...if it even works.

So, starting from scratch.

If you were to build a steering setup would you use heims? Or stock TRE's (Tie rod ends)???

All I see to the setup is 4 rod ends and two pieces of DOM tubing and thats it.

Anyone have any idea's? Or is this stupid???

OK, i've been doing some research and I found out some people are using Chevy 1-ton TRE's.
 
Last edited:
tre's no doubt. 1-ton tre's to be exact.

if i was you i'd be talking to legoms013 and disciplerocks... legoms did a super runner steering kit modified w/ chevy 1 ton TRE's... and disciplerocks built his own steering modeled after the stone crusher one.
 
I can't believe how cheap it is to lift the truck and how expensive it is for JUST the steering. TRE's would be a better option.

Sorry but I really don't know anything about heims/tubing/bungs.

But, do I need to get a certain size tubing say 1.5" .250 wall and then get a bung welded in the inside that matches the thread of the chevy tie rod end? Or is it done another way...like one of those spinning adjusters like on the stock steering.
 
I did start at the begging and am at like page 15. lol. I'm going to go through his thread...but not the whole thing...my computer is too slow.
 
I would use tre's

Agreed, especially on a rig that sees frequent street miles.

As for setup type, I'm partial to the K-link setup (like the design of the Superlift Superrunner kit). It's fairly simple, and having straight tierods, can be built the sturdiest of all setups (which is important if you do any crawling in rocks). The K-link makes a slight compromise on geometry (tierods being a bit shorter than ideal), however if mounted exactly on the same plane as your axle beam pivots, it's very unlikely you'd be able to detect any bumpsteer from behind the wheel during routine driving (which is a hundred times better than with the stock linkage).

To have ideal geometry would mean using a crossover linkage of some sort (such as a swingset setup). To have everything clear with the 4WD diff in the mix means putting bends in one or both tierods, which will compromise it's strength to some degree. IMO, a crossover setup shouldn't be needed unless you plan to do a lot of high-speed running.


Hope that helps
 
200 for a pitman arm?
 
that thing is a box killer.


get the 90 dollar one.....if you need more then that definitely custom.


certain f350 trucks 92-97 have a arm just like the 90 dollar one...i had a few of those


how much lift and what tires mostly?
 
I'm thinking about building my own steering setup. $200 for a drop pitman arm is too much and I will STILL have the stock steering setup...if it even works.

So, starting from scratch.

If you were to build a steering setup would you use heims? Or stock TRE's (Tie rod ends)???

All I see to the setup is 4 rod ends and two pieces of DOM tubing and thats it.

Anyone have any idea's? Or is this stupid???

OK, i've been doing some research and I found out some people are using Chevy 1-ton TRE's.

How much lift do you have and which setup do you want to run:

K-link (modified or not),
Modified stock stuff,
Stonecrusher style,
Or swingset?

Agreed the Sj arm is ridiculously overpriced.

Main idea of any type of steering system you choose, is to have the steering pivot points at the same elevation as the axle-beam pivot points. Any upward angle to them is gonna result in bumpsteer and short tire tread life.

TRE's for DD
Heims for offroader

I did my whole 1-ton TRE equipped SuperRunner k-link for like $400. Best $400 I ever spent. Made the truck fun to drive and my hatred for TTB steering/characteristics almost completely went away.

$120 in TRE's/DRE's
$120 in threaded tie-rods
$100 for used SuperRunner
$25 for a RBV TRE for the centerlink
$15 for some steel
$10 for some bushing sleeves and bushings (for new idler arm).
 
crazy thing......

15 bux or 1500 is easy to do with this..
 
I have a 5.5" lift and will be running 35" tires.

I am not 100% sure which one I want to go with. I like how simple the y-link design is but there are still flaws. K-link one would probably be the best but spendy. Swingset is out of the question.

So, its either k-link or y-link.

This truck will be my dd as soon as its back on the road...but I plan on going through a lot of trails.

I would like to do a k-link...
 
Last edited:
There are a couple people looking to sell used kits on here.. I'll see if I can dig up the folks.
 
dont need that retarded 200 dollar arm for a superrunner.


you dont need that 200 dollar arm.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Latest posts

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top