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broken need parts and info


rurouni20xx

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2009
Messages
1,176
City
natchitoches, la
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Automatic
93 ranger 4x4 dana 3.48 front end if this helps...the spindle hubs are discontinued and mine have grooves cut in them for some reason, had one previously welded up and turned back down, it broke again and the other side is showing the same symptoms, anybody have any resources on where to find parts for them and/or (as crazy as this sounds) any place that makes or sells billet hubs w/ crank grade bearing surfaces (if it breaks its just an excuse to put hardcore race parts in its place so it wont fail again...) and also my 4wd quit working when i rear ended a car 3 yrs ago, push the button nothing happens. its auto locking w/ push button actuation, now my question is is it like the utvs and atvs that i work on for a living and has a timer in the front end or transfer case that if its a hair off it wont engage/disengage, and when i push the button a friend of mine thought he heard something kindof like vacuum trying to pull like it was trying to engage it just wouldnt do it, what could that be and what should i be looking for first? thanks for the info.
 
I have an extra set of spindles (the part you are talking about) that I will sell for $55 + shipping for 2. Shoot me your zip code and I will give you a shipping price.
 
re

they do fit a 93 ranger w/ a 3.48 dana front end? my problem that i experienced last time was when i installed the bearings/seal on the rotor when they were changed is they were the larger bearing size, not the smaller that was supposed to be on the 3.48, but when my dad rebuilt the front end one time some 12 yrs ago it was a 3.48 front end w/ the dual i beam suspension. sorry im new to front ends and truck suspensions in general im an atv/motorcycle mechanic. dont have the front end torn apart as i dont have a place to do so, the motor went out on the truck but was considering rebuilding it w/ a dif engine, but still contemplating what engine i want to use and need to know if oversize pistons and reman cranks/rods are available as i may just rebuild my current 3.0 since its already coupled to the a4ld tranny, and the other thing i need to know about them is do they fit auto locking hubs. my 4wd has the auto lockers w/ push button actuation even tho it doesnt work ive been using this as a hwy to and from trk for yrs and has been around the country w/ me for some time. if you know for a fact that these will work my zip code is 71457. i appreciate your time and the offer.
 
i think there is a difference with his gear ratio, i know rotors are different when you look on rock auto. i never knew why there is two different rotors
 
i work at a napa and when you look up rotors for rangers there is a difference in rotors for different gear ratios same with bearings going in the rotors
 
re

well the problem is the rotors and bearings that are for the dana front end dont fit, even tho it is a 3.48 front end its the other option. just like my carrier bearing is 30mm in diameter, the special order option half the time hence the reason it never got changed. since yall are informative what is the ratio on the rear end if the brakes are 10 inches? i have the small dif thats supposed to have the 9 inch rear brakes but it has the 10 inch ones, never made sense to me.
 
its supposed to have 9 inch brakes but has 10 inch on it? but if your front end is 3.48 the rear has to be 3.48 or else youd rip your transfer case apart
 
There will not be a 3.48 front end on a D35 Ranger. It'll be 3.55. That's a D28 only gear ratio. Unless a D28 was swapped into your Ranger, or you're confused because someone swapped a early 7.5 from a D28 equipped vehicle, I'm certain it'd be a D35.

How many bolts does the fron diff have? 10 or 12?

They do make spindles new:

http://www.trsfabandoffroad.com/products/spicer.htm

BTW, those grooves are supposed to be there. It's where the key slides into for the "auto hub" lock nut.

PM Sent.
 
The parts store chains are stupid in their way of describing the difference between the Dana 28 and Dana 35. Just a tid bit of information, the Dana 28 was phased out around 1990, no matter what they say. You probably have the hybrid axle (which should give you 3.45 gears, not 3.48). Everything from the shafts out are the same between the real Dana 35 and the hybrid.
 
Last edited:
The parts store chains are stupid in their way of describing the difference between the Dana 28 and Dana 35. Just a tid bit of information, the Dana 28 was phased out around 1990, no matter what they say. You probably have the hybrid axle (which should give you 3.45 gears, not 3.48).

You have to be really specific with a lot of stores.. I did my ball joints last month, and the genius gave me one for a D28 and one for a D35 (I made the mistake of not looking in both boxes). Last time I checked, the truck only has one front axle.
 
Correct, it's 3.45, and it doesn't make a damn bit of difference on any '91-'97 year Ranger.

You need Dana35 rotors/bearings/etc. Tell the parts dude (who's apparently merely a slave to the mal-programmed computer system) that you have 3.73 gears, and you will get the correct parts for your '93 axle.
 
re

the parts store showed a dana 28 and dana 35 front axle option (i remember now its been a long time ago). the bearings for the front rotors and seals were for the dana 28, but the front end was rebuilt w/ a spicer 3.48 kit when my dad busted the cv boot from the dif to the other shaft yrs ago prob around 95. it has two i beams in the front, one w/ the dif and the other has a shaft connecting to it, and has the "radius arm control rods" on them. the only reason i know what they are called is cuz the last time i had the 948 dollar front end alignment i needed 2 tie rod ends, the drag link, one ball joint and a "radius arm rod bracket" cuz it was bent, but my trk still pulls to the right which i was told was supposed to be right. idk. then when the bearings went out in the front end (the wheels had a top in camber about 2 inches offset) i was told the bearings spun and cut grooves in the spindle on the pass side, ruining the spindle, and ford no longer offers them and a nationwide parts search did not turn them up so we had a machine shop weld the bearing surface up and turn it back to size, then assembled it again. this took care of my front end shaking at 70mph for a while (i drive the interstate a lot.) but i started noticing it happening again but i would do 75 and it would go away, i had the front end up looking at my brakes for routine maintenance and noticed the wheel had the same slack as b4 and the other wheel was the same way so i said the hell w/ it and drove it til the oil pump went out a week and a half ago and i drove on 3 cylinders home for 3 miles and its currently parked if that settles things. again im fairly new to this but since i have the trk even if its going to be a long drawn out toy in the making that i piece together so be it. the engine is toast but if im going to fix it i might as well start fixing the chassis then worry about the engine. in the mean time ill ask questions as i go along so pardon me if i make no sense.
 

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