Broke Teeth - 4.10, L/S, 8.8, 2001

[steven083008]

Guys and gals... I need some help!

I'm reasonably mechanically inclined, however I am not the most knowledgeable. What started out as replacing the oil pan gasket on my daily driver '01 Ranger XLT, 4x4 led to me seeing a screw in my tire. This led to me seeing what I thought was brake fluid on the inside of my rim/tire. Replacing the brakes that were shot caused me to notice that it was actually gear oil that was on the tire, and checking the axle made me realize the seals and bearings are shot. When I opened the diff, I noticed some broken teeth.

I've tried searching everything I can, and I can't figure out what I can and can't do in the diff w/o needing professional help (i.e. taking it to a shop.)

I'm including a link to a picture (I'll try to embed it as well) and will appreciate any help I can get. I'd love to fix this at home so I don't have to button it up and get it towed, but if that isn't possible, then so be it.

https://picasaweb.google.com/105099664396119363805/NeverEndingTruckSaga?feat=directlink#5641595776314410226

If you need/want any additional info, please let me know.

 

[Viva*the*Ranger]

It'll be much WAY cheaper to do it yourself. Is it easy? Hell no, but well worth it. Your first time changing a gear set, will be quite trying, and frustrating, but is definitely achievable. I've done a few, and am more than willing to help. It would take me half a day to write you a how-to, but if you need some help, PM me and I'll give you my phone number.

In short, you will need to buy new gears ($200ish) a master instal kit ($130ish) outer axle seals/bearings($50ish) bearing separator otherwise known as a clam shell ($30) two huge breaker bars for the crush sleeve, a 1/2" drive socket set, and lots of patience.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

^^^^ Ummmm looks like he just needs new spider and side gears, some axle bearings and seals to me....

 

[steven083008]

Is there a guide online or anywhere I can figure out what I do/don't need to do? I have no clue at what point I get caught up in back lash and mesh and whatever else. From what I could tell, the only parts that are damaged at all are the top and bottom gears (I assume these are the spiders) in that photo. The side gears appear to be worn a good bit, so I assume they need to be replaced as well, however there are no chips or breaks in them.

Are spiders and side gears replaceable, or does the entire diff case have to be replaced? I'm only finding diff cases online.

 

[Viva*the*Ranger]

^^^^ Ummmm looks like he just needs new spider and side gears, some axle bearings and seals to me....

The picture wasn't pulling up for me yesterday. I thought he was talking about the ring gear being chipped.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Is there a guide online or anywhere I can figure out what I do/don't need to do? I have no clue at what point I get caught up in back lash and mesh and whatever else. From what I could tell, the only parts that are damaged at all are the top and bottom gears (I assume these are the spiders) in that photo. The side gears appear to be worn a good bit, so I assume they need to be replaced as well, however there are no chips or breaks in them.

Are spiders and side gears replaceable, or does the entire diff case have to be replaced? I'm only finding diff cases online.

the gears should be replacable by themselves, go to your closest ford dealer and ask them for the parts, they should have them on the shelf or be able to get them quick, you will also need a rebuild kit for your L/S as that's what looks to be the problem.

I would have said go to a junk yard, but 28 spline L/S 8.8's aren't that common

 

[Viva*the*Ranger]

Is there a guide online or anywhere I can figure out what I do/don't need to do? I have no clue at what point I get caught up in back lash and mesh and whatever else. From what I could tell, the only parts that are damaged at all are the top and bottom gears (I assume these are the spiders) in that photo. The side gears appear to be worn a good bit, so I assume they need to be replaced as well, however there are no chips or breaks in them.

Are spiders and side gears replaceable, or does the entire diff case have to be replaced? I'm only finding diff cases online.

I've never done a limited slip, but I know how they work. Start by removing the keeper bolt that holds the carrier pin in place. Face the pin towards you so it will come out (it should just slide right out). Push your axle shafts in, towards each other, and remove the C-clip. Watch those little buggers, if they escape from the housing, they can roll forever! Ha ha. At this point, the top and bottom spider gears should slide out. I'm not sure about how to get the LS spring out, but I'm sure it's pretty simple. Once you remove the LS spring, the two gears on the side just pop out. Install new side gears, LS spring, top spider gears, reinstall the carrier pin, replace the keeper bolt, and you are done.

the gears should be replacable by themselves, go to your closest ford dealer and ask them for the parts, they should have them on the shelf or be able to get them quick, you will also need a rebuild kit for your L/S as that's what looks to be the problem.

I would have said go to a junk yard, but 28 spline L/S 8.8's aren't that common

Yup! Get the axle code off the tag, or the VIN I suppose, and give that to the Ford dealer, and they will be able to get the gears + LS spring thingy.

 

[steven083008]

the gears should be replacable by you will also need a rebuild kit for your L/S as that's what looks to be the problem.

(not questioning you, just looking for clarification)
Why do I need a rebuild kit for the L/S and why does that look to be the problem? Obviously I don't want to just replace the gears (which Viva*the*Ranger did a great job explaining) if something else caused the problem, because then I'll be right back where I started.

Thank you guys for all the info. It is greatly appreciated, and I will make sure I do a full write-up when I'm done so that anyone in the future may have a guide to go by.

 

[Viva*the*Ranger]

(not questioning you, just looking for clarification)
Why do I need a rebuild kit for the L/S and why does that look to be the problem?

Thank you guys for all the info. It is greatly appreciated, and I will make sure I do a full write-up when I'm done so that anyone in the future may have a guide to go by.

He said a rebuild kit, because the spider gears are cracked, and if you're going to replace the spiders, you might as well replace the limited slip spring/keeper thing. They wear out after a while, and you basically don't have LS anymore. Usually around 100-150k miles.

I think what caused your problem, was the previous owner being VERY hard on the rear end. Things like this happen from abuse. I'm willing to bet the shards of metal from the chipped gears, are probably what ruined your axle seals. Axle seals, and bearings are cheap though.

If you do a good write up on it, I'm sure many people would find it quite useful! Take pics while you do it too

 

[06RangerXLT]

take an 8 mm socket and remove the bolt holding the pin for the spider gears in on the carrier. remove the pin. slide your axles inward and remove the C clips, take out your axles. you can use a flat head to remove your axle seals. remove the gears and install the new ones how the old came out along with that metal spreader in the middle. remove the old axle bearings and replace with new ones, install new axle seals. slide axles back in. re install C clips. put pin back into carrier. tighten 8mm bolt into carrier. and your done!

its not that hard, took myslef and a friend about 2 hours.

just be thankful your ring didnt blow up with chunks of metal flying around in there.

oh and put NEW fluid in, and get ALL the old fluid and metal out!

you'll need about 3 cans of brake cleaner to get it all spotless.

its also easier with the axle out of the truck. so you can tip it to drain the fluid from the channel to the pinnion.

if i remember correctly, the driveshaft bolts are a 14 mm. and they are on tight.

your U bolts are a 18 mm.

also, once you pull the axles, i found it easiest to just unbolt the drum housing from the rear end to service the axle.

if you want to just disconect the lines, your brake lines are most likely a 3/8. use a vice grip lightly on the flex line to stop the master cylinder draining while the truck is sitting. KEEP AN EYE ON THE BRAKE FLUID LEVEL. dont let it empty.

and the bolt on the top of the axle is a 13 MM

if you need any help, my email is clarke_n@live.com

it goes straight to my cell so ill reply quickly.

good luck!

 

[steven083008]

I take it all of the measuring, backlash, etc. stuff that people say is very tricky is only if I'm messing w/ the pinion or ring gear?

 

[06RangerXLT]

I take it all of the measuring, backlash, etc. stuff that people say is very tricky is only if I'm messing w/ the pinion or ring gear?

yep. your gonna do this without removing the carrier. so no worrys of dealing with backlash or setup of the ring and pinnion.

 

[06RangerXLT]

in all honesty, as long as your good with mechanics and tools, you'll manage this fine. i did a rear end overhaul much like this on mine and i had never done it before. and it went perfectly.

oh, when you have the thing stripped down to the casing and carried and pinnion ( no axles ) spray down the axle tube to get ALL metal out of the axle tube, along with the fluid.

 

[steven083008]

Excellent! Thank you again.
I will tear down and clean up tonight, hopefully pick up parts tomorrow, and finish Friday/Saturday with assembly and brakes.

Of course that means it will probably actually be next Wed. by the time I finish, but what's a project w/o unexpected setbacks?

 

[06RangerXLT]

Excellent! Thank you again.
I will tear down and clean up tonight, hopefully pick up parts tomorrow, and finish Friday/Saturday with assembly and brakes.

Of course that means it will probably actually be next Wed. by the time I finish, but what's a project w/o unexpected setbacks?

sounds good. remember, getting the metal out is the most inportant part, if you miss one peice, it can do this to you again. and it will be sunk in the fluid. theres little chambers all over, so take your time and it will go good. heres some pics of mine.