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Broke my yoke


surfish95747

Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2015
Messages
7
City
Payson, UT
Vehicle Year
2003
Transmission
Manual
Hey all, I have a 2003 Ford Ranger FX4 Level II with an 8.8" rear axle. I was changing the rear driveshaft u-joints and was using the hammer and socket method because I do not have a press. Anyways, the metal that holds the circlips in sheared right off of the rear flange yoke. I have no idea where to even start looking for a new one. What do I need to know? Thanks!

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Sorry I hope the pictures show up.

It is a Spicer driveshaft if that helps
 
Find a drive-line shop in your area. That's about the only way to fix it short of getting a new shaft.
 
I just had to buy one for my one Ranger not too long ago. Mine was rusted to scrap. Local spring and driveshaft shop had them in stock. Could have possibly got one a few bucks cheaper online, but I couldn't wait just to save $5-$10.

One thing the shop told me was to clean out the ears on the shaft, put a thin film of grease on it all, and press it in with a large C-clamp. If it binds going in, tap on the ear with a hammer. Tap, not pound. It worked better than I thought it would


Sent from my kite using a trebuchet
 
Thank you everybody! I actually just found and bought an OEM Spicer brand replacement from an OEM seller on eBay. It'll be here on Monday. Oh, and it was $55.
 
I will try that. Buying a large enough C clamp will be cheaper than taking it to the shop to have it done.

I just had to buy one for my one Ranger not too long ago. Mine was rusted to scrap. Local spring and driveshaft shop had them in stock. Could have possibly got one a few bucks cheaper online, but I couldn't wait just to save $5-$10.

One thing the shop told me was to clean out the ears on the shaft, put a thin film of grease on it all, and press it in with a large C-clamp. If it binds going in, tap on the ear with a hammer. Tap, not pound. It worked better than I thought it would


Sent from my kite using a trebuchet
 
If you save up a few bucks and watch the sales at Harbor Freight, you can get a press for a very reasonable price. Granted, it's not an industrial rated press. But it works well for occasional home use. I used their 20 ton model for several u-joints now and it makes life much easier. Not as cheap as a C-clamp, but I think I got that press on sale, with the super coupon, for about $100 last year. Used it the other day to press rivets out of an axle beam pivot bracket before shipping the bracket to somebody.
 
If you save up a few bucks and watch the sales at Harbor Freight, you can get a press for a very reasonable price. Granted, it's not an industrial rated press. But it works well for occasional home use. I used their 20 ton model for several u-joints now and it makes life much easier. Not as cheap as a C-clamp, but I think I got that press on sale, with the super coupon, for about $100 last year. Used it the other day to press rivets out of an axle beam pivot bracket before shipping the bracket to somebody.

Yup, I have that same one and I love it. I gotta say though, I wish I had the hybrid hydraulic/pneumatic ram. That is going to be the first thing I do to it once I can't find anything better to do with the money.
 
Yup, I have that same one and I love it. I gotta say though, I wish I had the hybrid hydraulic/pneumatic ram. That is going to be the first thing I do to it once I can't find anything better to do with the money.
I agree. That, a pressure gauge and maybe a little extra height. I'm not sure It's tall enough to do axle bearings if I do a c-clip eliminate project. I can put it up on cement blocks, though if I need to.

I'm spoiled at work with awesome tools. But I can't take home projects in to work on.

Eric B
 

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