Brand new to the B2....is the Sven Pruett build real?

[Dhaile]

The one thing that happened to my 2.9 and it must happen to a lot of them, is the heads developing cracks. I got a set of the better heads off ebay and swapped them on after I found some cracks. I looked at the bottom end when I had it apart and it looked perfect, so I did nothing to it.

If you can figure out how to keep those pesky valve covers from leaking, that would be something also. I have heard you can get a later model 2.9 valve cover that helps fix the oil leaking problem.

From what I know so far, you need the heads with the 89TM casting because the pillars are much stronger. They're square shaped instead of oval. Also, the heads already hold a lot of heat with the design. So, the second it gets overheated, the heads crack pretty easily. The Pruett build addresses a lot of this top end stuff. So far, I've only heard from one person that has actually followed some of it. Oh well, I guess I'll find out.

 

[Dhaile]

I don't have any problem with a nice, clean good running 2.9, even stock. They don't make a ton of power but in a small, light truck like ours, they are good enough. Great engine for a kid - it'll teach him to watch the fluids and doesn't have enough power to get him in trouble.

Yeah, I wanted a good all around learning vehicle. Nothing with serious power. I made that mistake when I was 16 and built a car that would run high 11s in the quarter. That's just a bad combo. But, so far it runs good and has plenty of power for what it is. I'd like to keep the 2.9 in it because apparently they do run for just about ever. I know a few people that have had them over the years. They liked them and put a ton of miles on them pretty reliably. But, anytime a manufacturer has a flaw, I like to eliminate it if I can when I'm already elbows deep in something. I just couldn't decide on the stock rebuild or going the Pruett route was worth the trouble. It's really not a big price difference. I just wanted to see if anyone on here has ever done one. If they regretted it, or loved it.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I'm kinda surprised @gaz Hasn't spoke up here.

Also @kodogtwh has been down this road I believe.

 

[Curious Hound]

Also @kodogtwh has been down this road I believe.

I’m not sure how much of that he’s done. I asked him where he got info for his build. He seemed to be aware of the head issues. We didn’t get to talk long. I was interested in how he ran his exhaust and got the turbo up front behind the grill. Maybe he’ll chime in here.

 

[Blmpkn]

All I have to add to this is to say that adding 20hp wouldn't be inconsequential at all... idk what a 2.9 makes stock but I DO know that adding another 20hp would be a meaningful increase.

 

[Dhaile]

All I have to add to this is to say that adding 20hp wouldn't be inconsequential at all... idk what a 2.9 makes stock but I DO know that adding another 20hp would be a meaningful increase.

The stock motor at 100% is rated at 140hp and 170ft/lbs. I’m not brushing off a 20hp increase like that. All I’m saying is that’s not the overall goal. I have no idea what the overall increase would be. I’m sure there would be some purely through an efficiency increase.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I read through a very long one. The last comment shows half a motor put back together. The post and thread died last October. I really wanted to see it through. I’ve read through quite a few of his posts. Him and I should sit down for a few beers. I’d even buy.

So last I heard, PJ got really busy with work. Haven’t talked with him in quite awhile now, I’ll have to drop him a line. Great guy though, talked with him a good bit about a lot of this stuff, even drove his modded 2.9 Ranger a bit and he drove my 4.0 choptop that I did the free floating rockers in and a little gasket match porting, plus headers and custom exhaust. Both vehicles were definite improvements over stock. Until I blew the motor up again (haven’t been having good luck with junkyard motors in that), it would easily light up both back 35’s in first and you could chirp second and third. I’d really like to build a 4.0 right for that truck using a lot of the stuff from that book.

His 2.9 powered Ranger that I drove didn’t seem like a huge improvement until he told me how much weight was in the bed. Then I realized it was performing more like a 4.0, which was rather impressive. But he had electric power steering and the fabled Scorpio intake among other things too. I haven’t got back to the project, but I was working on doing some tweaks to a 2.9 in my 88 including trying to do a MAF conversion to see if I could gain any fuel economy over the speed density system.

The one thing that happened to my 2.9 and it must happen to a lot of them, is the heads developing cracks. I got a set of the better heads off ebay and swapped them on after I found some cracks. I looked at the bottom end when I had it apart and it looked perfect, so I did nothing to it.

If you can figure out how to keep those pesky valve covers from leaking, that would be something also. I have heard you can get a later model 2.9 valve cover that helps fix the oil leaking problem.

Permatex Indian Head gasket shellac. Sucks to take them off though after that, I usually end up massaging it loose with a 4# dead blow, but that stuff seals. Directions say to paint both surfaces and let it tack up or dry, but for valve covers I’ve had good success painting both sides of the gasket and slap it together wet. Once that hardens, you could probably run with no bolts holding it and still not leak. Great stuff.

 

[Dhaile]

Permatex Indian Head gasket shellac. Sucks to take them off though after that, I usually end up massaging it loose with a 4# dead blow, but that stuff seals. Directions say to paint both surfaces and let it tack up or dry, but for valve covers I’ve had good success painting both sides of the gasket and slap it together wet. Once that hardens, you could probably run with no bolts holding it and still not leak. Great stuff.

I've never heard of this stuff. I'm going to have to check that out. I owe our little 2.9 some valve cover gaskets next weekend.
Either way, I think it's the route we're going to go this winter. Finding a machine shop that has any clue what I'm talking about or want will be a different story. Fingers crossed it just turns into the little 2.9 that could or something. I just figured more people would have gone this way with things. But, I guess all that 4.0 and 5.0 swapping is what all the cool kids are doing.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I've never heard of this stuff. I'm going to have to check that out. I owe our little 2.9 some valve cover gaskets next weekend.
Either way, I think it's the route we're going to go this winter. Finding a machine shop that has any clue what I'm talking about or want will be a different story. Fingers crossed it just turns into the little 2.9 that could or something. I just figured more people would have gone this way with things. But, I guess all that 4.0 and 5.0 swapping is what all the cool kids are doing.

I don’t know where all you can find that gasket shellac, but I know Autozone carries it because that’s where I always get it, little brown bottle on a shelf in with all the RTV and gasket stuff in the store. They must have gone woke though because the last bottle I got they removed the Indian Chief logo. If I remember, I’ll get a pic.

4.0 and 5.0 are common swaps. But they aren’t always the answer. I started a 4.0 swap on my 88 years ago and ended up not finishing it and going back to a 2.9 in it. Why? Look at all the wiring plugs on the drivers side under the brake master cylinder. All of those need adapted and spliced to make it work. Back when I started it, there was nearly no good info on it other than trace everything out. Now there’s diagrams and all available, but my end goal for that particular vehicle is more resto-mod than some crazy performance and a modded 2.9 (especially after talking with PJ and some other peeps) will be plenty adequate.

My 89 choptop on the other hand, I had a good running 2.9 in it and it pulled hard 1st-3rd when I got the 35’s on it but it would literally fall flat on its face in 4th and 5th was useless. A 4.0 was nearly a bolt in swap for that because the wiring harnesses that I had to mate nearly all plugged together, because the harness changed from 88 to 89. With free floating rockers, gasket match porting and headers, it was plenty of power for what I wanted. Lot of people have asked why I didn’t go 5.0 in it. Well, a modded 4.0 has enough stupid power, a 5.0 would be more stupid power and I’d have a better chance of ending up on my lid and that’s no bueno.

My 2000 Ranger is a much better candidate for a 5.0 swap. It’s in the most ideal range for plug-n-play and with the longer wheelbase, and a much more stable platform for utilizing the power and staying planted.

So in my opinion, plan out what you want the vehicle to do, where you want to go with the project, and then find the engine that meets those requirements.

I think a lot of the lack of modding the 2.9 is the fact that they haven’t been produced here since around 1991. The 4.0 OHV on the other hand was produced up to 2000 and was rather common. So there are a lot more 4.0 engines available than 2.9 and not a lot of people running these can afford to take the time and money to performance build.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I've used that gasket shellac for years. I've used it to seal VW engine cases... SBC head bolts... as pipe dope... and most places where a thin paper gasket may be used. Don't think I've ever used it on a cork valve cover gasket. In my experience I don't think it dries hard. It dries... but IMHO still stays tacky but hardened. The original was not made by Permatex... just another supplier gobbled up in corporate take overs I'm sure.

Permatex 20539 Indian Head Gasket Shellac Compound, 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0008KLOG6?tag=959media-20

You probably would get more responses if it was 30 years ago as was stated above.

 

[Dhaile]

I've used that gasket shellac for years. I've used it to seal VW engine cases... SBC head bolts... as pipe dope... and most places where a thin paper gasket may be used. Don't think I've ever used it on a cork valve cover gasket. In my experience I don't think it dries hard. It dries... but IMHO still stays tacky but hardened. The original was not made by Permatex... just another supplier gobbled up in corporate take overs I'm sure.

You probably would get more responses if it was 30 years ago as was stated above.

I'll be picking up some of this shellac for sure. Rumor has it that the rubber(it's probably space rubber or something) felpro gaskets I bought do really well. Felpro hasn't let me down so far in life. But, a little extra insurance probably wouldn't hurt.

@lil_Blue_Ford we're keeping the 2.9. It's just going to be a daily vehicle for the kid. We're keeping the mods minimal. They'll mostly be in the heads to keep the valves from floating all over the place, keep the oil a little more available and some other things. To be quite honest, it has enough power for what it is. I'm not even mad at it. We drove it the other day after some maintenance and fluid changes and it does just fine. It's not meant to be a hot rod. Just something old and cool. If it were mine....yeah....I might go all in and crazy. But, since this one's going to a new driver, the slower the better at this point.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I've used that gasket shellac for years. I've used it to seal VW engine cases... SBC head bolts... as pipe dope... and most places where a thin paper gasket may be used. Don't think I've ever used it on a cork valve cover gasket. In my experience I don't think it dries hard. It dries... but IMHO still stays tacky but hardened. The original was not made by Permatex... just another supplier gobbled up in corporate take overs I'm sure.

Permatex 20539 Indian Head Gasket Shellac Compound, 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0008KLOG6?tag=959media-20

You probably would get more responses if it was 30 years ago as was stated above.

I’ve used it on both cork and rubber valve cover gaskets. I prefer using the rubber gaskets, less messy when they have to come off again. But yea, very useful. Pretty sure it was originally just called Indian Head up until Permatex bought them out. Might even have an old bottle somewhere too.

I'll be picking up some of this shellac for sure. Rumor has it that the rubber(it's probably space rubber or something) felpro gaskets I bought do really well. Felpro hasn't let me down so far in life. But, a little extra insurance probably wouldn't hurt.

@lil_Blue_Ford we're keeping the 2.9. It's just going to be a daily vehicle for the kid. We're keeping the mods minimal. They'll mostly be in the heads to keep the valves from floating all over the place, keep the oil a little more available and some other things. To be quite honest, it has enough power for what it is. I'm not even mad at it. We drove it the other day after some maintenance and fluid changes and it does just fine. It's not meant to be a hot rod. Just something old and cool. If it were mine....yeah....I might go all in and crazy. But, since this one's going to a new driver, the slower the better at this point.

Yeah, sounds like the 2.9 is fine for what you’re doing. Having a manual transmission with it helps too. When I get my 88 back together (auto), I’m doing a shift kit and valve body work to the transmission to hopefully make it a little more enjoyable. I did that to my 4.0 powered 92 and it made a huge difference to how the auto performed. My choptop is manual and that definitely was nicer with a 2.9 than the factory auto in my 88.

 

[kodogtwh]

Gonna have to read through this thread later, on my desktop. Apparently I can be of some help making some 2.9 power.

 

[kodogtwh]

The most cost effective way to get a 2.9 running with a 'modern car' level of power density (just under 200hp/L) is with boost. I've had mine on 15psi for about 6 months now, and apart from the initial teething problems and my own personal goals with the truck (complete rewire, Coil pack conversion, etc) it hasn't affected reliability at all. I've towed cars, pulled people out of ditches, taken it to a track once or twice, and it hasn't missed a beat. Completely unopened engine, too. Still has junkyard warranty stamps on the freeze plugs from when it was last replaced by the previous owner. I could 100% see a single turbo 2.9 on, say, 8-10Psi Running as long as an N/A, stock truck. Mine is currently pushing 320hp at the crank, and with my turbo selection (t3/t4), butt dyno says 350ft/lb of torque, right at where the engine makes peak torque, 2600. There's power hiding in an N/A, truck 2.9, too, but parts are hard to come by, or come with an overseas price tag. Pacesetter headers are getting hard to find, Scorpio intakes are getting even harder to find, not attached to a scorpio, cams are pretty much morana or burton power, or a custom regrind, and everything else internally is pretty much strictly morana at this point.

 

[Dhaile]

The most cost effective way to get a 2.9 running with a 'modern car' level of power density (just under 200hp/L) is with boost. I've had mine on 15psi for about 6 months now, and apart from the initial teething problems and my own personal goals with the truck (complete rewire, Coil pack conversion, etc) it hasn't affected reliability at all. I've towed cars, pulled people out of ditches, taken it to a track once or twice, and it hasn't missed a beat. Completely unopened engine, too. Still has junkyard warranty stamps on the freeze plugs from when it was last replaced by the previous owner. I could 100% see a single turbo 2.9 on, say, 8-10Psi Running as long as an N/A, stock truck. Mine is currently pushing 320hp at the crank, and with my turbo selection (t3/t4), butt dyno says 350ft/lb of torque, right at where the engine makes peak torque, 2600. There's power hiding in an N/A, truck 2.9, too, but parts are hard to come by, or come with an overseas price tag. Pacesetter headers are getting hard to find, Scorpio intakes are getting even harder to find, not attached to a scorpio, cams are pretty much morana or burton power, or a custom regrind, and everything else internally is pretty much strictly morana at this point.

Parts are indeed an issue with this one. And apparently so is machining. I'm going to have to look into that even more. I may not be able to stay local with that. Luckily for me, I drive through about 9 states regularly for work. So, dropping some stuff off and picking it up a month or two later would be pretty easy. But, after all the answers and things on this one, it looks like, for the most part we're going to stick with line honing, new bearings all around, polishing and and balancing the crank, indexing throw(and all the other technical mumbo jumbo I can throw at them) stock rods(They are forged after all) with the silly little pedestal weight and cast veins shaved, new rings, everything that can be ported and polished, new gaskets everywhere(gonna try out that gasket shellac too), new lifters, valve seal shims, stainless valves and just for giggles, I'm going to try out the morana rocker setup. I might go with the matching cam of his, I haven't decided. I'm going to do headers, Y pipe, eliminate the cats(we don't have emissions on anything older than 96) and single exhaust all the way out(someone put aluminized exhaust on it a while ago and it looks like crap now). I will have to put the O2 sensor back in somewhere. It's going to stay NA. Efficiency and longevity will be the goal. I didn't cover every little detail in that. I'm sure some power will be gained through this process. How much, I have no idea and it doesn't really matter. I just want to make it a smooth operator. It will be around October when I start. I have a lot of other projects around the house that need decent weather. I do appreciate everybody's input on this one. I have seen these little 2.9s go for over 250k. Which is why I wasn't scared of tackling it. It's at 159k now and running surprisingly smooth even with "The 2.9 tap". But, it'll be a good winter project. Once I get into it, I'll let everybody know how it works out. My only hope is that the stock ECU can deal with the changes. That's the only unknown at this point. If not, we'll have to cross that bridge when we get there. The rest of this thing is in such good shape that it should last for a very long time.