Brand new starter grinding on start. Engine starts every time but seems to slip/ not catch all the time.

[MadMax_636]

Most likely not with the bolts being tight, You mentioned you went over them again and made sure, unless the starter housing is made of inferior materials, less than OEM specs strength.

They are through bolts. So the bolts are the same diameter/size as the whole to the starter ears. Which is weird. Since the previous owners through bolted the bottom and I did the top after breaking/stripping the threads.

The first through bolt on the bottom and the retreated bolt on the stop were smaller that the ears.

Youd thing they either be the same size or bigger. I did tighten the piss out of them. Like to the point its like breaking loctite red

 

[Dirtman]

They are through bolts. So the bolts are the same diameter/size as the whole to the starter ears. Which is weird. Since the previous owners through bolted the bottom and I did the top after breaking/stripping the threads.

The first through bolt on the bottom and the retreated bolt on the stop were smaller that the ears.

Youd thing they either be the same size or bigger. I did tighten the piss out of them. Like to the point its like breaking loctite red

This one has me confused, can you snap a pic of the bolts and how this "repair" was done?

 

[Bgunner]

Just for info here, The bolt diameter should be just slightly smaller than the hole through the starter casing. This is to allow the bolts to slide through and be tightened but not allow the starter to move excessively so it is held in place without much movement.

The heads of the bolts should have a round flange and not have a hex head pattern contacting the starter casing. This helps hold it uniformly in place and not gouge the metal.

Please post pics because I'm confused also.

 

[MadMax_636]

This one has me confused, can you snap a pic of the bolts and how this "repair" was done?

Just for info here, The bolt diameter should be just slightly smaller than the hole through the starter casing. This is to allow the bolts to slide through and be tightened but not allow the starter to move excessively so it is held in place without much movement.

The heads of the bolts should have a round flange and not have a hex head pattern contacting the starter casing. This helps hold it uniformly in place and not gouge the metal.

Please post pics because I'm confused also.

My mistake. I thought the bolts were supposed to be the same size/diameter as the ears. So they are supposed to be smaller the ear holes?

For the through bolt thing, I drilled out the top bolt using a drill bit that was one step bigger than the original bolt. I then put the bolt through the new whole (100% straight and not at an angel) I then put the bolt through with a washer and than put the starter on the threaded part of the bolt and used a lock washer and nut to tighten it down.

My uncle, mechanic friend, and ive read online here that through bolts are the best way to go instead of wasting time trying to rethread it.

The bottom bolt is smaller than the top bolt but that work is from the last owners.

The top bolt had been rethreaded with so a bolt could fit and thread into it.

I will try and get a decent photo of it tomorrow after work. Since its pitch black, 3:17am. Plus its lightly raining and has been all day. Last thing, Its 39f here haha.

But lookup through bolts. People on here said they did it after stripping the threads. They say it makes a starter replacement job easier. I did it as a last resort and it worked. Considering the threads were cracked half way through.

 

[Bgunner]

Bolt diameter is the the diameter of the shank and threads not the head size. If the bolt diameter is larger than the hole then the bolt will not fit through the hole. I think the confusion here is proper terminology. Have a read of this https://www.kljack.com/docs/default..._jack_fasteners-technical_data_and_charts.pdf read the third page down.

Yea pics tonight, it's a bit late for that but it could be worse you could live near me. Its been snowing all day and 25° ATM. To morrow we are looking at 0°, give me south Georgia any day compared to this.

 

[Uncle Gump]

If you look at your flywheel picture... it sure looks like you aren't getting much engagement between the starter gear and ring gear. It seems to be just contacting the tips of the ring gear teeth.

 

[Uncle Gump]

@.38spl

What do you see here? I know you have an Escort starter drive fix. If I remember... your fix gives better engagement between the teeth due to old age/wear.

To the OP... if the mounting bolt holes have been drilled oversized... you created some movement in the starter positioning. If what I see in your flywheel picture is true... try holding the starter tight towards the flywheel before tightening the bolts. It doesn't take much change here to create some engagement noise/issues.

 

[RobbieD]

Two thoughts for you.

The hole for the starter in the separator plate between the engine and transmission is what's supposed to locate the starter. In your truck, has the separator plate been modified or damaged? (I can only see part of it in your second picture). Do both starter ears rest on the separator plate? A missing part of the separator plate (like one bolt being on the plate but missing the plate under the other ear) will throw the starter gear out position relative to the flywheel teeth.

With your modified mounting bolts, you may need to find the starter's "sweet spot". Mount the starter, only snug the bolts, and then check the starter operation before, and as, you tighten them down. The starter may have to positioned just right to cleanly engage/disengage.

I'm curious how this turns out; good luck!

 

[MadMax_636]

UPDATE: Sorry for the radio silence.

I managed to get it as good as I could, when I tightened the bolts I gets hitting the starter with a rubber mallet to get it as close to the flywheel. I kept doing that until I couldnt hear any movement (Metal clanking or rubbing. Thats the best way I can describe it.)
Tomorrow if the weather holds up Ill go and snap a photo of it. Im hoping to tune my carb to keep it from stumbling and stalling out at stops. I think the idle is to low. Im also needing to pull off the clogged muffler and replace it. See if that helps anything. The cat (Yes mine has one haha) is empty. The material is GONE.
So that might be all inside the muffler. I also just want to hear my truck sing haha.

 

[Bgunner]

Ok for carb adjusting I highly recommend doing 2 things that will help you with this. 1 hit a harbor freight or a cheap tool supplier and get a vacume gauge since this is used to adjust the carb properly and 2. Look up how to with the vacuum gauge properly.

Vacuum leaks can also throw off the adjustments so do a check for leaks first. A leak will also cause stumbles and if bad enough cause stalling. A vacuum hose to your ear and running the other end over all vacuum lines and intake gaskets listening for a hissing sound will insure you are setting it properly. With my vacuum gauge I got a longer pie e that does the trick, but could be a foot longer for my liking, so I didnt need to buy an extra piece.

 

[MadMax_636]

Ok for carb adjusting I highly recommend doing 2 things that will help you with this. 1 hit a harbor freight or a cheap tool supplier and get a vacume gauge since this is used to adjust the carb properly and 2. Look up how to with the vacuum gauge properly.

Vacuum leaks can also throw off the adjustments so do a check for leaks first. A vacuum hose to your ear and running the other end over all vacuum lines and intake gaskets listening for a hissing sound will insure you are setting it properly. With my vacuum gauge I got a longer pie e that does the trick, but could be a foot longer for my liking, so I didnt need to buy an extra piece.

I bought a vacuum gauge but never knew where to hook it up to. Never found any concrete info on the place for full manifold vacuum

 

[Bgunner]

Many carbs have a vacuum port on them and also manifolds have a a main port or vacuum tree. These places are wher you want to hook up. My gauge came with a T adapter the would insert into the line off of the carb and the extra piece would then connect the two this way you do not loose vacuum to an item but still read the vacuum on the system.

Vacuum pressure is the same no matter where it is measured as long as it is off the the intake manifold. If there is a change in vacuum from front to back then there is a leak somewhere.

 

[MadMax_636]

Many carbs have a vacuum port on them and also manifolds have a a main port or vacuum tree. These places are wher you want to hook up. My gauge came with a T adapter the would insert into the line off of the carb and the extra piece would then connect the two this way you do not loose vacuum to an item but still read the vacuum on the system.

Vacuum pressure is the same no matter where it is measured as long as it is off the the intake manifold. If there is a change in vacuum from front to back then there is a leak somewhere.

So I could remove the brake booster hose and use that? Im trying to think of a hose that it easy to remove since a lot of them are plugged with flipping screws (no they dont flip) stuck in the brittle old hose. Ive heard I should remove old hose and use a material (I forget the name of it) to plug them.

 

[Bgunner]

Ok If you have "BRITTLE" vacuum hoses they hoses need to be replaced. Of they are plugged it would beg the question as to why are they plugged. If it is they are un needed and brittle they sell vacuum caps to plug off unused ports. This would be how I went to plug them odd it the hose is not needed.

Edit: on my phone so I am fighting with auto correct and it not reading what I try to type correctly. Usually I'm on my pc but not tonight...

 

[MadMax_636]

Ok I'd you have "BRITTLE" vacuum hoses they hoses need to be replaced. Of they are plugged it would beg the question as to why are they plugged. If it is they are un needed and brittle they sell vacuum caps to plug off unused ports. This would be how I went to plug them odd it the hose is not needed.

Ive looked up which lines needed to be plugged and they are right, I just thing the redneck plugging was being screws. Ive checked the "brittle" lines. They arent leaking. Ive felt them and I dont feel anything from them. They are just brittle as in they will probably break and fall apart if removed.