brakes

[toslow123]

I have a 1989 ford ranger reg cab 4x4.I put a new master c and new brake c .I bleed the brakes and the pedal still goes to the floor

 

[Tedybear]

Did you bench bleed out the master cylinder?

S-

 

[snake]

He's right. The angle the master is at makes it nearly impossible to get all of the air out without a bench bleed. You may also have a bad rebuild... it happens so often I always pay the extra money and buy new brake components.

 

[bigblue88]

You might want to check the slave cylinders, my drum slave cylinder was leaking on me the other day after i already bought a master cylinder and installed it. that stopped the leak and made it firmer. i didn't bench bleed the master cylinder like they were saying. Can anybody explain how to bench bleed I read on it but still cant quite figure it out?

 

[Guilius]

Mount the master cylinder on the vise making sure it is level.
Many replacement master cylinders come with a cheap bleeding kit, if not you can get one dirt cheap at a locak auto store or not use one.

you decided to go with the bleeding kit included with your replacement master cylinder, place the open end of the hoses into a receptacle to catch the brake fluid. If you aren't using the kit, see below.
Be sure the reservoir is filled before you begin bleeding. You'll be using your wooden or plastic rod or heavy duty screwdriver to push the cylinder in (the same way your brake pedal pushes it in while driving).

If you're using a bleeding kit, you're ready to start pumping. The trick is that you have to pinch the tubes closed every time you let the cylinder come back out. So, you'll push in, pinch the lines, let it out, let go of the lines, push in, pinch the lines ... and so on. You'll see lots of air bubbles coming out of the tubes with the brake fluid, and you'll see bubbles in the reservoir floating to the top.

Be sure to keep the brake fluid topped off in the reservoir. If it runs dry during pumping, you'll have to start over.

If you aren't using a bleeding kit the process is the same, only instead of pinching a rubber tube, you'll cover the holes tightly with your fingers when you release the cylinder. Keep pumping until there are no more bubbles floating to the top of the reservoir.

When you have pumped the cylinder until no more bubbles float to the surface of the reservoir, carefully replace the little caps that your master cylinder came with. Do this carefully, but don't fret if a small amount of fluid drips out. Screw the top onto the reservoir and your new master cylinder is ready for installation. or some people dont use the caps and go right to the install.

The reason for this is.......as stated above.......the master Cylinder is a PAIN in the A&% to bleed with the lines and everything attached and in place in the vehicle. this makes the job so much easier and takes less than 30 minutes and guarantees you will have no air when you bleed the lines!

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

I've always just stuck the lines from the bleeding kit back into the reservoir of the master cylinder when bench bleeding. Submerse them in the fluid, push with a screw driver and hold still the bubbles stop, then slowly release the screw driver, repeat till no more bubbles. No mess, no wasted fluid and you don't have to try and pinch the lines off everytime.