brakes squishy and weak

[mikhail]

Ive never been able to get the brakes to work right on my b2. You have to pump them about 2 or 3 times to get any pressure. Ive changed the master cyl, both the rear slave cylinders, and the pads front and rear. The only thing left original on it is the booster, lines, and front calipers.

I bled them recently, the fluid looked new and got out all the bubbles, I couldnt get the bleeder screw on the front to come off so i just did the rear, but the fronts always worked fine anyways. I noticed though when I was under the truck and my friend was pump the pedal, there was a splattering sound comming from the driver side rear drum. kind of like when you squeeze a ketchup bottle and only a little comes out. I bled it though and the fluid was clean, no bubbles. anyone have any ideas?

 

[blackbronc]

Make sure the rear shoes are adjusted properly. If they're not tight enough you have to pump the shoes out to the drums and the check valves in the master cyl can't keep up. Also some master cyls have an adjustable rod that sometimes has to be readjusted when replaced.

 

[Jspafford]

Bleed those fronts... I had the same problem and it was the fronts... When I plugged the front line at the master cylinder and hit the brakes with the rears only the pedal was SOLID.. This was with the engine running too.

I replaced both front calipers and the problem is gone. Now granted I still don't have a super solid pedal, but it no longer sinks as I am stopping.

 

[blackbronc]

And the 9" drums don't do much for feel anyway. I switched to 10" and it helped a lot.

 

[mikhail]

yeah mine does have the 9" drums, I guess thats part of it. Ill bleed the front, but how do I get the rear drums adjusted properly? When I changed the pads I had to twist the adjusting screw in a bit just to fit the drum on.

 

[Ranger44]

A squishy pedal could be alot of things. But check any rubber lines. If they are weak and expanding, that'll do it. Also when adding brake fluid when bleeding the brakes, make sure to use new brake fluid and keep it sealed. Brake fluid likes to attract water. It will even pull it out of the air (humidity). The water will then evaporate, and puff, air in the lines. You've aleady replaced the MC. So, the only other thing I can think of is like Jspafford said, it could be an internal leak in a front caliper. BTW, brake fluid should be replaced after 2 years of use.

 

[Jspafford]

I bled my front calipers and I still had a mushy pedal.. It would stop decent, but as I was sitting still I could push the pedal to the floor.

When I bled the fronts it didn't help at all.. Everyone seemed to think it was something else... I did what I suggested about plugging each port on the Master Cylinder and found the rear alone had no pedal travel at all, but the front had a ton (to the floor) of pedal travel.

When I took the old calipers off, I layed them down and they drained out on the floor. There was some nasty chunks and brown flakes that came out... I thought to myself, that can't be good..

 

[mikhail]

alright, Ill bleed it again tomorrow after school and see if that helps. it seemed to help a little bit the first time, but not much. I doubt its the lines expanding, ive seen old cars with the original lines have decent brakes.

 

[danger88ranger]

A squishy pedal could be alot of things. But check any rubber lines. If they are weak and expanding, that'll do it. Also when adding brake fluid when bleeding the brakes, make sure to use new brake fluid and keep it sealed. Brake fluid likes to attract water. It will even pull it out of the air (humidity). The water will then evaporate, and puff, air in the lines. You've aleady replaced the MC. So, the only other thing I can think of is like Jspafford said, it could be an internal leak in a front caliper. BTW, brake fluid should be replaced after 2 years of use.

like ranger44 said, check the rubber lines, also if thats not the case, plug off the rubber lines on the front, then check your pedal feel. It could be a sign of a stuck caliper.

 

[Jmhm17]

i have the same problem its not any of that.. the only person that was right was blackbronc.. i had my rear right drum adjusted and the truck stoped on a dime after that, for about 3 days it was great then it whent back to being mushy and pushing its self through stop sighns with my foot to the floor.. when i opend it up i noticed that little arm that tightens the breaks when you spin the little spur wheel was bent, i bent it back and the same problem happend.. its the rears alright but now i need to find out how to replace that adjusting system cause its obviusly FUBAR'ed.

try adjusting the rear breaks, dont do it through the little hole in the drum cause if the spur isent hitting the arm its not going to do anything, take the drum off and see if spinning the spur from the inside is actualy pushing the arm.. i think you have the same problem as me..

 

[mikhail]

I think I may have fixed it, adjusted the rear brakes and bled them again. It works alot better now, itll lock up the 33s.

 

[Jmhm17]

see told ya it would work..

 

[FL_forlife33]

shoes without adjusting screw stud?

you guys ever heard of anyone having this problem? I have a 99 4WD and am trying to replace the rear shoes, and all the new shoes I find don't have the threaded stud for the adjusting screw on them...

anyone know what i'm talking about?

 

[Hazmat Ranger]

you guys ever heard of anyone having this problem? I have a 99 4WD and am trying to replace the rear shoes, and all the new shoes I find don't have the threaded stud for the adjusting screw on them...

anyone know what i'm talking about?

No one is going to see your question in this thread - start a new one with your request, and please add a pic if you can get one . . .

 

[DaNgErOus1998RaNgErOuS]

its your wheel cylinder for sure. had the same problem. when you take your brake drum off it will be at the top. easy fix, and you might as well replace everything on both sides.