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Brake upgrades on a '92?


Ranger305

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
105
City
Tennessee
Vehicle Year
1992
Transmission
Manual
Have a question or two for those who have done brake swaps. Rebuilding my stock 92 regular cab 2wd and am thinking about the brakes. The stock single piston fronts and 9" drums work ok, but I'm curious if swapping my 9" drums for 10's is worth the effort? What about a 95-97 dual piston swap? At what point do you need to go with a different master cyl? I may end up keeping my original 14" wheels. Would they clear the 10's and dual pistons ok?
 
If you don't have any complaints about your current brakes I don't know if I would bother.

I lucked out and the first 8.8 I found that was geared correctly happened to have disk brakes. And then a buddy called that they were cutting up their '95 parts truck and wanted to know if I wanted the D35 (and I was looking for a D35 anyway)

If I hadn't walked into them I wouldn't have sought them out... but I am not going to turn my back on dumb luck. :icon_twisted:
 
Last edited:
Ranger305:

10" brakes, especially with Aerostar drums probably provide the most braking force/pedal effort of any stock application ('10-11 vented rotors would be ultimate if you were racing and needed the faster recovery between stops which disks allow).

But if you don't: a. Swap master cylinder, b. have ABS, c. both; then in panic situation, especially if unladen, your truck will lock rear wheels. Which is an unsafe condition (back will then attempt to pass front....)

Rotors for dual piston calipers are ~15% thicker (1.023 versus .850) so absorb more heat = less fade. Dual piston calipers also allow moves to new Ranger 11.26" or Explorer Sport Trac 12.01" rotors with aftermarket brackets which are considerable improvement over the stock 10.26".

But as 85_Ranger4x4 indicates, if you are driving safely/defensively stock brakes are fine. It is substantial amount of effort unless you are doing ball joints/axles seals anyways....
 
Ranger305:

10" brakes, especially with Aerostar drums probably provide the most braking force/pedal effort of any stock application ('10-11 vented rotors would be ultimate if you were racing and needed the faster recovery between stops which disks allow).

But if you don't: a. Swap master cylinder, b. have ABS, c. both; then in panic situation, especially if unladen, your truck will lock rear wheels. Which is an unsafe condition (back will then attempt to pass front....)

Rotors for dual piston calipers are ~15% thicker (1.023 versus .850) so absorb more heat = less fade. Dual piston calipers also allow moves to new Ranger 11.26" or Explorer Sport Trac 12.01" rotors with aftermarket brackets which are considerable improvement over the stock 10.26".

But as 85_Ranger4x4 indicates, if you are driving safely/defensively stock brakes are fine. It is substantial amount of effort unless you are doing ball joints/axles seals anyways....



temporary thread hijack,,,,could you elaborate some about the brackets?
I know about the 4wd knuckles, its 2wd that has my interest.


Perry
 

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