Brake swap --> no braking pressure

[94FordRangerXLT]

Hi all, thank you in advance for your time and knowledge. I tried to search and found similar situations but no resolution.

Hoping for some help as I'm at a frustration point with my 94 ranger - I've (almost I guess?) completed the front dual piston/rear mustang caliper swap but since have not had them functional. I've bled the brakes with several quarts of fluid but cannot get the pedal to do more than travel right to the floor. I've bled them by myself with a fluid reservoir and also with someone else holding the brake while I release the pressure before continuing to pump. I've replaced with stock the brake booster, master cylinder and all lines from the MC to every corner, also eliminating the rear ABS (as I wanted to rule that out as an issue). All connections are dry; I do not see any fluid leaks.

Today was the third stock MC I've bench bled (to <1/4 inch travel) before installation with the same result. I'm unsure if an explorer/mustang MC would be beneficial or give different results?

I'm at a loss - let me know what you think.

 

[2011Supercab]

Are you sure you have the calipers on the correct sides of the truck, it wouldn't be the first time I've seen them put on backwards.

Bleeder on top = correct

Bleeder on bottom = wrong

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I've had problems bleeding various rangers. Sometimes its not air in the lines... I've had a firewall flex so bad from a large crack. Another the bolt flange on the master was cracked allowing flex.
That said, I've had the best luck bleeding using engine vacuum and a mason jar;
A long line from an engine vacuum source leasing to a hole drilled in a lid of a mason jar. Another hole in the lid with another much shorter line to the bleeder valve. Start the engine and crack the bleeder, the vacuum will suck out the fluid. Keep an eye on the master, dont let it run dry. Start at the slave farthest from the master and work your way to the front. You can move to the next one when you see clear fluid and no big bubbles.

 

[94FordRangerXLT]

I've had problems bleeding various rangers. Sometimes its not air in the lines... I've had a firewall flex so bad from a large crack. Another the bolt flange on the master was cracked allowing flex.
That said, I've had the best luck bleeding using engine vacuum and a mason jar;
A long line from an engine vacuum source leasing to a hole drilled in a lid of a mason jar. Another hole in the lid with another much shorter line to the bleeder valve. Start the engine and crack the bleeder, the vacuum will suck out the fluid. Keep an eye on the master, dont let it run dry. Start at the slave farthest from the master and work your way to the front. You can move to the next one when you see clear fluid and no big bubbles.

I like this and will try next time I'm bleeding them

 

[94FordRangerXLT]

Are you sure you have the calipers on the correct sides of the truck, it wouldn't be the first time I've seen them put on backwards.

Bleeder on top = correct
View attachment 134150

Bleeder on bottom = wrong
View attachment 134152

I think you're onto something here as my bleeders are definitely on the bottom...will be working on it early week and will keep all informed.

Thank you for the help.