Brake light on, how do i turn it off

[HiddenParkRanger]

I broke a brake line going to the rear axle and my pressure dropped in my master cylinder as teh fluid leaked out. I fixed the line and filled the resevior up and bled the brakes but the light hasn't gone off yet. Is there something I have to reset to get it off? Its really annoying when im driving at night cause it lights up so bright and its right in the middle of the dash on my 88. Anything helps guys thanks!

 

[adsm08]

Have you tried pulling the parking brake release?

 

[Surrey]

Have you tried pulling the parking brake release?

Isn't the e brake cable-driven, which means blowing a hose/losing his fluid wouldn't make any difference on it?

 

[--weezl--]

brake light is turned on by 2 things for sure, 1) as adsm said, the parking brake lever partially set (mine doesn't always come ALL the way up, sometimes it stays 1 click below the top, and leaves the light on, pull the release handle, and pull the pedal up with your foot at the same time, then let go of the handle... and 2) low fluid, there can be other reasons that cause the light to come on depending on your year... on newer ones if you have an abs code it will need to be cleared, yours MAY have this, but i doubt it being an 88, you should have R-ABS, which does nothing, and has a separate amber light that says ABS

(i assume you are talking about the red "BRAKE ! " light)

 

[kunar]

i would guess that the little float in the reservoir is stuck. it seems to happen, i would just poke a screwdriver or something in there and make sure that its not stuck on the bottom.

 

[Ranger44]

The float in the master cylinder can get stuck down.

Other than that, double check the fluid level, and parking brake.

 

[HiddenParkRanger]

Ill check the float in the resevoir. I dont use the parking brake cause its rusted up. I gotta get a new assembly and hook it all up. Thanks fellas

 

[kimcrwbr1]

trace your brake lines from the master cylinder. if they go to a block with wires coming out the end you need to center the piston. have someone push on the brake pedal while you loosen the line going to the front brakes real slow and let the fluid leak out until the light goes off. Close the line up fast and dont let the person pushing the brakes let up until you tighten it good. Then pump the brakes and see if the light stays off. What it does is warns you if either the front or rear brakes are losing pressure. It is usually a square block about 4 inches long with a switch on the end with a floating piston connected to the switch. sometimes bleeding the brakes works also but doing it at the master you have better control but dont allow air to get in the master. pump the brakes and hold firm crack the fitting on the master just until the light goes out and close it fast if the light dont turn off try the other one but the rear brake lost pressure my guess is cracking open the front line will push the piston center somtimes it takes a few tries back and fourth to get it right. Allways use a brake line wrench so you dont mess up the fitting and get it good a tite.

 

[LIMA BEAN]

trace your brake lines from the master cylinder. if they go to a block with wires coming out the end you need to center the piston. have someone push on the brake pedal while you loosen the line going to the front brakes real slow and let the fluid leak out until the light goes off. Close the line up fast and dont let the person pushing the brakes let up until you tighten it good. Then pump the brakes and see if the light stays off. What it does is warns you if either the front or rear brakes are losing pressure. It is usually a square block about 4 inches long with a switch on the end with a floating piston connected to the switch. sometimes bleeding the brakes works also but doing it at the master you have better control but dont allow air to get in the master. pump the brakes and hold firm crack the fitting on the master just until the light goes out and close it fast if the light dont turn off try the other one but the rear brake lost pressure my guess is cracking open the front line will push the piston center somtimes it takes a few tries back and fourth to get it right. Allways use a brake line wrench so you dont mess up the fitting and get it good a tite.

I agree its most likely the combination/ proportioning valve. Not sure on yours or if its earlier ones you just turn the key to ACC. position and push the brake pedal down hard and it centers itself, good luck.

 

[adsm08]

Isn't the e brake cable-driven, which means blowing a hose/losing his fluid wouldn't make any difference on it?

It is, and you are correct that blowing a line SHOULDN'T make a difference. I have however experienced in my 87 that the light will just stay on from time to time. It happens more in the winter and I have determined that it's from the pedal not fully releasing. It comes up enough to disengage the brake, but not to release the button on the pedal.

 

[--weezl--]

It is, and you are correct that blowing a line SHOULDN'T make a difference. I have however experienced in my 87 that the light will just stay on from time to time. It happens more in the winter and I have determined that it's from the pedal not fully releasing. It comes up enough to disengage the brake, but not to release the button on the pedal.

absolutely 100% right, my truck did this, it was partially to do with the cold and the mud and the salt and the snow all packing onto the backing plate of the rear brakes, took the brakes apart cleaned the backing plate and reassembled and it's as good as new

 

[LIMA BEAN]

Any results on this yet?