Boxing/Plating Frame

[Speedaddict]

Currently working on my 98 Ext Cab Ranger. Under the knife getting D70 /D60 w/4bt

The front half of the frame is already boxed, I want to finish boxing the rear and plate some on the front. My question is how much is too much?

I will be towing a smallish 2 axle camper and playing in the swamps. I want strength and reliability but worried I will go overkill on the plating.

Any advice and tips?

 

[CraftsmanQuad19]

I would think stiffer is better, that way any articulation is in the suspension rather than the frame. All depends on what you want the truck to weigh lol

 

[Speedaddict]

Not at all worried about the weight. Cummins and 1tons eliminate that option!

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Are you putting in a cage?

 

[Speedaddict]

No cage, I don't rock crawl in South Ga. Nothing but mud.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I don't know too much about this subject. If you aren't twisting up the frame, which I guess mud doesn't, then maybe you don't need it?
The reason I asked about a cage is that stiffens the chassis a lot, probably more than boxing the frame does.
Good luck in your search for answers, sorry I couldn't help.

 

[Curious Hound]

I like to over engineer things. But if you're going to be in a lot of mud and water, how will you clean all that out of a boxed frame so that it doesn't retain moisture and accelerate rust?

Just something to think about.

This message composed solely of recycled electrons. Go green!

 

[Speedaddict]

As far as mud or sand in a boxed frame goes, no different than a Toyota or Jeep boxed frame. Allow proper drain holes and coat inside of frame with protectant.

Thanks for the advice guys.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

coat inside of frame with protectant

I've heard lots of good about Fluid Film [lanolin] yearly and some swear by spraying oil on the engine bay and underside every couple months. I've seen an applicator for inside body panels and frames that sprays at a 90degree to the wand and 360 degrees around. It's something I want to try on my racetruck.