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Bought 85 4x4 for son.. No Power ????


dilfitz

Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2011
Messages
11
City
Maine
Vehicle Year
1985 Ranger 2.8
Transmission
Automatic
Hello all,
My name's Brian. I'm retired military and two yr. Iraq Contractor...
Long story short, wife "Ex" wiped me out. So I just got an 85 Ranger with 98k and The distributor had "Locked-Up" Had it replaced and is timed at 10. I was told these carbs aren't the greatest and it's the original.
The truck is all stock, Automatic, one owner and in really nice shape. Fact tire size for the 4x4.
The problem is it has No power........ cant even hold overdrive at 65 mph... Will the Reman Holly 2150:::: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-64-5544/Application/?query=Model|RANGER|Transmission|Automatic
Improve power??? I'm gonna changet the trans fluid and filter and install a new set of plug wires...
(has new dist. & mod, cap, rotor, coil..
It's for my 16 yr old son, and I have a nice set of 31"s he would love to put on but with the lack of power now.... not sure.
Any suggestions are really appreciated..
Thanks,
Brian
 
Howdy Brian

Hello all,
My name's Brian. I'm retired military and two yr. Iraq Contractor...
Long story short, wife "Ex" wiped me out. So I just got an 85 Ranger with 98k and The distributor had "Locked-Up" Had it replaced and is timed at 10. I was told these carbs aren't the greatest and it's the original.
The truck is all stock, Automatic, one owner and in really nice shape. Fact tire size for the 4x4.
The problem is it has No power........ cant even hold overdrive at 65 mph... Will the Reman Holly 2150:::: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-64-5544/Application/?query=Model|RANGER|Transmission|Automatic
Improve power??? I'm gonna changet the trans fluid and filter and install a new set of plug wires...
(has new dist. & mod, cap, rotor, coil..
It's for my 16 yr old son, and I have a nice set of 31"s he would love to put on but with the lack of power now.... not sure.
Any suggestions are really appreciated..
Thanks,
Brian

Thankyou for your service... It is appreciated by all here..:wub:
First question is did you pull the spout before setting the timing? Could be the thing is retarded and not getting the advance it needs.
As for a tuneup... If it ain't spitting and sputtering it don't need a thing. Just a waste of time, effort and money..
Of course there is always a chance the exhaust system has closed up on you and the little guy can't push the burnt fuel out thru a clogged convertor or muffler.. Lots of that happens in the older trucks.
Big JIm:hottubfun::wub:
 
You better tell your son that 31 inch tires and the D28 ttb front may end baddly if he decideds to get on it in 4wd, the 31's can easliy snap one of the shafts.

If you can and want to, do the duraspark set up, things are much simpler and no more computer/emissions stuff.
 
thanks, i thought about the exhaust an than forgot.... I'm gonna yank the cat and elcheepo muffler it asap..... great advice.... keep-um cumming please,
and thank you, It has been my Privilege to Serve our GREAT COUNTRY.
 
check the door sticker or axle tag and see what gears you have. if it's the 3.45's, that's much of the problem, especially with an auto tranny. 4.10's would give you more get up and go and allow for easier cruising on the freeway for sure. the original carb may need to be rebuilt, but swapping it for the holley 350 or a weber won't get you any more 'usable' power... imho. the duraspark conversion will add to the reliability and ease of maintenance for sure.

good luck with your "new" ranger and, Welcome to TRS !!!!!

.
 
You can always rebuild that carb also and I allways put new wires, plugs, cap, rotor and PCV when I get a new vehicle along with oil and filter. Then you can do a proper diagnostic. +1 big tires = low power unless it is geared proper. Disconnect the battery for 1/2 a hour to reset the computer and run it for 20 minutes and see if it improves, if you gonna keep the computer you will want to pull the codes, just make sure all the sensors are plugged in and vacuum lines are connected properly before you start it. Running it without all the inputs will send the computer into limp mode and run like crap.
 
Welcome to the forum. You may want to start with the tech section and check into proper timing methods for this engine and a search of the postings will give you most answers; if not - you have many people here that should be able to help.
 
Timing spout plug... I remember that from my old 5.0 days...... I'm gonna check the time again as I had a shop get it runing for me...
THANKS!!
 
???????????????
Gonna change the fuel filter, and remove the Catalytic converter this week.... Will deleting the cat cause any computer type problems??
Brian
in Maine..
 
it shouldn't really. not much in the way of computers on the 1st gen's. also, don't forget the filter that's in the tank at the pickup. mine was really bad and causing similar problems so it was just taken out completely and another in-line filter was put in the gas line under the cab where i can change it easily. it's a toss-up as to which you do to get to it... drop the tank or unbolt and lift the bed.
 
The computer doesn't have any sensors at or after the cat convertor; so that won't have any effect UNLESS you need to get smoged.
 
You better tell your son that 31 inch tires and the D28 ttb front may end baddly if he decideds to get on it in 4wd, the 31's can easliy snap one of the shafts.

If you can and want to, do the duraspark set up, things are much simpler and no more computer/emissions stuff.

The D28 is fine if you use your head. I have had mine for 11 years this fall and the only thing I have had to touch on my D28 is the brakes. If you get stupid you can break anything anytime with darn near anything.

+1 on the Duraspark swap :icon_thumby:
 
Welcome to the forum. You may want to start with the tech section and check into proper timing methods for this engine and a search of the postings will give you most answers; if not - you have many people here that should be able to help.
Once you confirm the timing and plug the spout back in the easiest way to adjust the idle air i found is turn the idle air screws out three turns from the lightly seated position. Start it and bring it up to temp. Unplug the idle control motor and adjust the idle air for the highest rpm or vacuum pressure plug the idle motor back in and the idle should drop. make sure the idle stop screw dont touch the throttle lever by the throttle cable so the computer is controlling the idle. If you run into alot of problems with the timing and computer and dont need to pass emissions yea the duraspark is the best way to go. Just enter duraspark in the search bar and there are alot of threads of people gone thru the conversion get the parts together it usually take a couple of days. The first day I did the wiring and ignition the second was the 2150 non feedback carb. Later I did the valve seals (recommended) if you get a puff of smoke on startup. Easy enough to do without pulling the heads and the seafoam trick brought my compression numbers up within 5%.
 
And on these engines, there is an air pump that has tubes that go to the CAT. Plus the pump has tubes that connect to it from the exhaust manifolds.
 
pulled all the smog stuff off my truck earlier this spring. pump, tubes, etc. sure does clean up the motor compartment. some of it had been removed by the po, so i just finished the job. much easier working and doing things in there now for sure. it was already ds'd, so no issues at all. made it nice when i upgraded to the 130 amp alternator 2 weeks ago as it was bigger than the original 45 amp one. fitting a few more things in there, motorola police heavy duty noise filter for the radios, additional fuse block for lights, big circuit breaker for electricals, etc.
 

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