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Both coil packs fire at what RPM?


1994_4x4

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2011
Messages
124
City
Ohio
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
From what I understand both coil packs fire only once the engine reaches a certain RPM. I apologize in advance if I missed this in the tech library. I've been taching it up around 3000 RPM and it seems as though it's helping my engine warm up, I don't know if this is from both plugs firing.
 
You shouldn't run the engine off-idle during warm up.
 
Higher engine speeds will always create heat faster. adsm, why do you say not to run off idle for warm up?? I have heard many arguments, including the notion that oil doesnt lubricate well cold, which is wrong. And that oil breaks down when cold, wrong, heat breaks down oil. Im just curious why you say not to. I personally wait long enough to get oil pressure (2-5 seconds?) then i drive.
 
That is true, but this is a lima engine, they dont have small clearances an tight places that need oil. New engines its a bit more of a concern yes, but the oil reaches a good operating temp way before "warmup" is achieved by the coolant.
 
Once you have oil pressure, easy driving is fine. No reason to sit still for long periods. Most engines spec thinner weight oils now, so lubrication is superior to what used to be when engines were cold.
 
From what I understand both coil packs fire only once the engine reaches a certain RPM. I apologize in advance if I missed this in the tech library. I've been taching it up around 3000 RPM and it seems as though it's helping my engine warm up, I don't know if this is from both plugs firing.

I didn't say this right. However my question was answered with that link. I normally let the truck idle for about a minute, longer below freezing. Then once I start driving I'll hold gears longer, if that's the correct term. I'm shifting later.

The link saying it only fires both plugs at Idle-1500 RPM. That adds to my confusion.
 
I have no info about the ignition system, but any reduction in warmup time is due to the higher RPM, not more/less plugs firing. Simply put, 3000 RPM will create more heat than 1500, thus the quicker the engine reaches operating temp.

The arguement about oil being too thick to flow well when cold is pretty much obsolete. Modern multi-weight oil starts out at lower viscosity, then thickens as it reaches operating temp.

Modern EFI engines don't need extended warmup periods at idle, a minute or so on the coldest days is plenty, then it can be driven until it reaches full operating temp. It shouldn't be driven hard during the warmup cycle.

The idea of letting an engine warm up before driving was reasonable back in the days of carbs, as the choke restricted air flow, thereby causing an overly rich mixture while trying to drive with it still engaged. EFI overcomes this by not restricting the air flow, but instead it simply injects a bit more fuel to get the richer mixture needed to ignite inside a cold engine.


As for 1/2 the coils shutting off at a certain RPM, it would make sense. Under a harder load, having 2 flame fronts colliding inside the combustion chamber would create the same effect as detonation, which is rather harmful in the long run. 1500 RPM would make sense, since these engines have almost no guts down that low........
 
No guts is right. I'm WOT on my daily drive to work sometimes going over a overpass.

As I'm shifting gears now, I'm not letting RPM's get below 1500, and that seems to reduce my warm up time. I used to just drive at low speeds and low RPMs, thinking that would help with warm up. I'm starting to think it just likes being around 2000-2500 RPM.:icon_confused:
 
Both plugs fire at mid range, aka cruising RPM.
 
Only thing important to know about the dual plug coil packs is that the drivers side ( left ) coil pack does not operate when starting the vehicle. You can prove that to yourself by unplugging the packs and trying to start.
 
This question and the answers have me scratching my head. One of my coil packs went out and the motor ran, but it sounded terrible...skipping, sputtering. I swapped in the new[er] coil pack and it evened back out.
So what was happening? If one pack only works from idle to 1500 before the second one kicks in, why was the motor even running?
 
I've never read anything like what this thread has posted in it. (The book in that link was a general textbook).

Dual Plug Inhibit is "on" during engine start (cranking).
That means only one coil (R/H) is firing.

As soon as it starts, both coils fire, and do so at all rpms.

You can prove that using a spare plug, connected to one of the LH plug wires. Lay that plug on metal and crank it up, rev it and see!
 

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