Body Mount Bushings for a ’92 Ranger Custom?

[rangerenthiusiast]

Hey, folks.

Recently picked up a ’92 Ranger 4x4 with a 4.0 and A4LD trans. Before I even bought it, I noticed that the bottom bushings (between the bottom of the frame and the retaining washer/nut) were blown on the passenger’s side (must have been a chunky monkey riding shotgun in the past - lol).

The truck rides like an iron horse whenever it hits a pothole without a load on the back (partly due to the leaf springs, I’m sure). If I replace the bushings, does anyone think it will help any with the ride? The shocks look okay (not new, not old). I’m also thinking of replacing the bushings with rubber ones instead of poly, in order to help a little with the ride (I have a bad back). Does anyone have any thoughts on that choice and what the better brands are/where to buy them? I probably won’t be putting a lift kit in any time soon, as I’m pretty happy with where she sits stock.

Thanks!

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

Anyone???

 

[adsm08]

You can still get the rubber bushings and hardware from LMC. They are not cheap though.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

You can still get the rubber bushings and hardware from LMC. They are not cheap though.

I see what you mean. It’s a real pain in the butt to add up all the individual pieces of hardware and rubber on their site, rather than being able to just order a complete kit. Out of curiosity, how much of a difference is there in the ride between rubber and poly bushings? And what kind of life expectancy would rubber ones have, if not used for off-roading? I’m assuming that the ones on the truck are original and it’s 26 years old, so I’m quite happy with that, even if they failed a while ago...

 

[adsm08]

I don't have any issues with the way my truck rides with polys. I have actually had a few people tell me they are surprised by how nice it rides for a 30 year old truck.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

On a related note, does anyone have any tried-and-tested methods for replacing the bushings by oneself? I don’t currently have access to a chain hoist or anything, so I’m thinking maybe to get a one-ton jack and a biggggggg stack of framing lumber (which I have in spades). The idea being to loosen all of the bushing retaining nuts, then place the jack/lumber under one the body near one bushing at a time. Jack things up, slip in a bushing and new bolt, rinse and repeat. Then snug things up once all are in place. Thoughts?

Also, I’d like to put some Never Seize on the new bolts, but I’ve read that Ford put red Locktite on them in the factory. Can I assume that they’d work loose without it?

Thanks!

 

[BlackBII]

That's how I did it; used a floor jack and a 2x4 and did one at a time.

I did have to cut them all off with a sawzall, as the bolts were seized to the sleeves.

I used the poly bushings and I feel like it rides fine. Not too rough

 

[adsm08]

I didn't even stack the first time. I stuck a 2 foot piece of 4x4 on end between the cab floor and the jack head and went to town on that bad boy

The second time, when I did all of them, and not just the rotten ones, I took the whole cab off. With just a few ratchet straps and an engine hoist.

 

[Curious Hound]

Also, I’d like to put some Never Seize on the new bolts, but I’ve read that Ford put red Locktite on them in the factory. Can I assume that they’d work loose without it?

I haven't done mine yet. But based on several reports that they seize inside the bushing sleeves, I would recommend anti-seize on the portion inside the sleeve and loctite where the nut will be. One the other hand, What are the chances that you will ever have to do this job a second time?

 

[adsm08]

From my personal experience on the big trucks, anti-sieze on the unthreaded portion of the bolts, thread locker on the threads, and paint on everything under the floor pan.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

I haven't done mine yet. But based on several reports that they seize inside the bushing sleeves, I would recommend anti-seize on the portion inside the sleeve and loctite where the nut will be. One the other hand, What are the chances that you will ever have to do this job a second time?

Right on. As for the reason, I’m a fan of Never Seize on things. Plus, if I ever decide to put a small lift in the truck, I don’t wanna struggle.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

From my personal experience on the big trucks, anti-sieze on the unthreaded portion of the bolts, thread locker on the threads, and paint on everything under the floor pan.

Sounds like good advice to me.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

Anyone used these?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-1997-Ford-Ranger-Body-Mount-Bushing-Kit-12-Piece-Black-Prothane-6-106-BL/112163308598?fits=Year%3A1992%7CMake%3AFord%7CModel%3ARanger%7CSubmodel%3ACustom%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A4.0L&epid=657149894&hash=item1a1d744436:g:W2wAAOSwCGVX~Aov&vxp=mtr

Or these?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-1997-Ford-Ranger-2WD-4WD-Body-Mount-Bushing-Kit-12-Piece-Prothane-6-106/112152814713?fits=Year%3A1992%7CMake%3AFord%7CModel%3ARanger%7CSubmodel%3ACustom%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A4.0L&epid=658297073&hash=item1a1cd42479:g:hdUAAOSwYIxX7YJq&vxp=mtr

My thought at the moment is to use one of these two bushing sets, while replacing all of the hardware (bolts, washers, retainers, etc) from LMC, since I can’t find them anywhere else. Thoughts?

 

[BlackBII]

I used that black kit on my truck and used new 1/2" grade 8 bolts. Worked great.

 

[AdirondackRanger]

It's my understanding that the factory bushings are two pieces press fit together. Sandwiching the frame mount between them. So that the sleeve on the inside can ride up and down with the compression of the bushing.

I looked into the products from LMC.. way too much for the low budget I have.. so tractor supply it was. Grade 8 by the pound. I bought the replacement bushings from ebay. And 3" body lift block set.

The sleeves-
I made these from grade 8 washers and steel tubing. welded the washer to one end of the upper sleeve and weld the one to the lower sleeve. When complete the two parts slid into each other. No press fit.. but tight enough for no slop.. when I put the cab back on the frame all I had to do was place the upper sleeve and bushing on the frame. Drop the bolts through and then slide the lower bushing and sleeve into place.

$30 bucks in Grade 8 and a little time..