Body lift install difficulty

[That_4.0_ranger]

I was clearing out a cargo van of a family member and I found a complete body lift for a ranger and was wondering how hard they are to install

 

[sgtsandman]

I haven't done it myself but the hardest part will be getting the body mount bolts out. the condition of the mounts on the frame are going to play into this. Then, it depends on how much of a lift it is as to whether you will need longer stuff that goes to the various components like brake hoses, parking brake cables, wire harnesses and so on. There is some give to allow the smaller lifts to work without changing anything but I don't know what those limits are.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Really depends on the condition of your body hardware.

 

[gaz]

@That_4.0_ranger
Though I prefer the function off a suspension lift, the body lift is the least expensive way to get larger rubber under the chassis.

I recommend having a second person but otherwise, I though that it was one of the simplest changes I've ever incorporated; the kit I used included all the hardware and extensions required for the lift. The seemingly most important of which was the steering column extension. I thought that I would need brake line extensions but did not.

 

[That_4.0_ranger]

All the online kits I’ve looked at to see if I’m missing any parts they just have the pucks but no other brackets for the steering column also I’m putting this on a 91 what do I have to do to fix the front and rear bumper gap?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

The hardest part is usually getting the old hardware apart. With the rust problems here, I usually end up cutting them apart, sawzall and grinder. Impact can sometimes get them apart here, I usually start there and escalate as needed. The metal body mounts around here often need repair. I’ve bought large washers before to weld on to patch that problem. Or I’ll cut steel and make what I need. Annoying but not difficult. I usually replace the bushings with the body lift pucks, but again, rust and wear are a factor here that you may or may not encounter.

If you get poly body bushings, put a large flat fender washer between the poly bushing and the body lift puck, keeps them from sinking in. Same goes for rubber bushings if they don’t have a metal top.

E-brake cable mount on the frame up by the firewall where the cable comes down from the pedal in the cab needs relocated higher on the frame. That will have to be removed from the frame or the cable disconnected to do the lifting.

I’ve only done 1” and 2” body lifts so far. I never needed a steering extension or needed to change anything but moving the e-brake mount. I can’t speak for a 3” body lift.

I didn’t worry about the bumper gaps. With a 1” lift, the gap is minimal, especially on a first gen (which is what got that). My Choptop (2nd gen) got the 2” lift and since I had always intended on building custom bumpers, I didn’t do anything more than loosen the bolts for the front bumper and pull it as far out and up as the factory adjustment allowed.