Blown CV joint

[Woods-Rider]

I have looked around and can't find much on the new IFS D35's. I was wheelin in the snow yesterday chained up in the front and found a guy WAY stuck in a stock suburban (don't ask me what he was doing trying to drive in 2+ feet of snow). so being the good amaritan that i am i hooked up to him and began to pull him out. i say began because after hearing a loud bang from the front end i stopped. the drivers side cv joint boot was off and things in there were kinda loose. I unhooked from the chev and when i began to move again i heard an awful grinding noise. I got back home in 2wd with the help of some friends. My question is: is there a common upgrade for these cv joints or am i pretty much stuck with the factory strength? I guess the combo of 35's, chains, and pulling a suburban just didn't fit with the D35.

ill post some pics once i start tearing it apart.

 

[Woods-Rider]

So i got the cv joint out and have some pics and more questions. looks like the needle bearings failed. other than that and a little ding on the end of the shaft that you can see in the first pic i think everything else is fine. the last pic is what i saw when i removed the boot.

first of all, is the little thing with the needle bearings on it in the first pic the CV joint or is it the whole thing shaft and all? second, what is the name of the thing in the second pic and is it supposed to have a little play in and out? ill call Napa tonight or tomorrow morning to get a new one of the tings with the needle bearings on it. any suggestions on brands or types?

 

[4x4junkie]

It's hard to tell, but it looks a bit like that joint was being overextended (possibly from too much angle). I see what looks like the wear areas in the axle cup go all the way to the edge.

I'm not sure how many of those parts are individually replaceable. I think CV half-shafts are normally sold rebuilt as a unit.

 

[c_note]

well DixonBrosRacing makes a stronger cv, but its for long travel suspension. i yanked out a dodge ram once when i had 35s and i didnt have n e problems. definitly an articulation issue.

 

[Woods-Rider]

It's hard to tell, but it looks a bit like that joint was being overextended (possibly from too much angle). I see what looks like the wear areas in the axle cup go all the way to the edge.

Do you think this could be caused by a torsion crank? I didn't think mine was that high.

Thanks guys, ill just see what Napa has. that joint is just pressed on to the shaft so i would think you could buy it separately. guess ill find out tomorrow.

 

[4x4junkie]

Torsion crank, no.
Too long shocks, maybe (might need limit straps).

The shaft being too short (knuckle too far away/bent brackets) could overextend them also (doesn't look like you can use a CV axle spacer on those either).

Maybe possibly spacing the shafts inward with a couple hardened washers where it's bolted into the wheel spindle might help keep that joint deeper inside the cup? (< just purely speculating though, I've not had the later frontend apart myself personally to know if that's possible to do)

 

[Woods-Rider]

It was cheaper to get the whole CV shaft unit rather than just parts (seems odd to me, but whatever). I got the old one out with the spindle on, but couldn't get the new one in without taking it off. I got some pics but cardomain wont let me put them up right now. everything seems to be in working order though.

 

[Bent Bolt]

You have a 4" suspension lift ??? I'd say it maybe due to that. My experience is that inner CV rarely fail. When I first read this thread, I was expecting to read about another failed outer joint.