block deck tolerance

[scrapper]

I cleaned off the deck of the block and am not sure what clearances should be if I put a straight edge on top and try to slide a feeler gauge under. I did it and a .0025 would not go under any idea what the correct size should be? I searched and looked in the manual but did not find anything. Thanks for any help. After the head is done and front seal installed I would like it to go back together as quick and easy as possible. I will still have to install the rear seal and the clutch, but hopefully that will be it for awhile.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I think it's either usually .003" to .005", if you have a .0025" gauge and it's tight you are fine.

 

[tomw]

That measurement sounds to me to be totally within what I'd accept as 'good'.

When you do assemble, do the head gasket 'dry', no sealer or other, and make sure to use some solvent or evaporating cleaner to wipe any oil from the mating surfaces on the head and block. The gasket should have any 'friction modifiers' or sealers needed to work properly. Clean and dry would be my suggestion.
tom

 

[scrapper]

Sounds great I was fixing to get some more wet dry sandpaper just in case. I'm guessing 250 grit is good enough? Feels smooth.

 

[tomw]

FWIW, unless damaged by corrosion, or hot gases passed between two cylinders due to gasket failure, 99.9% of the time, the block will not be out of true. I actually have never measured one when doing head work. Just cleaned them up and assumed they were flat and had not warped. If you can warp a block to get out of true, it must have been HOT, and would likely have done damage to the cylinder walls, and possibly twisted the crank bearing journals.
A late 60's Cadillac had an oil pump failure, but the elderly couple were told the bright red OIL light on the dash was due to sending unit problems. The drove on, until the engine stopped. The block was so warped from heat(no oil), and they were slow drivers, so it took some time to get HOT, that the main bearing caps had to be beat out of the block, and would not go back with the crankshaft removed. Still, the heads & block up top were ok. The crank needed to be 'line bored', and the caps 'adjusted' to fit.
tom

 

[scrapper]

I dont think it got hot,maybe from running lean? I installed an electric fan over a year ago and the temp never goes up very far. I think the only time the fan has kicked on was in drive thru. Maybe about 5 times.